Working on a Swedish Mauser

[seanhagerty]

I am wanting to do some work on my 6.5 X 55mm swedish mauser.

History is it has already been "sporterized" by Kimber before I bought it. I think all they did was the cleaned off the barrel and threw a stock on it, and drilled it and put a scope on it, but thats no big deal.

I want to put a trigger on this thing. And maybe a new barrel. Lets start with the trigger.

I want a trigger that is adjustable for pull and overtravel. I would like it to have an integral safety. I do not like the bolt safety, and want to remove this once I get the trigger installed, so I may as well start locating a kit or parts for that too.

Any help would be appreciated.

Sean

[Scorch]

Here you go, and it's on sale, too!
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=679486

[seanhagerty]

Thank you. Thats exactly what I was looking for.

Would this (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=615418) be the part I need to replace the bolt safety?

Thanks for the help.

Sean

[Scorch]

Yes, that is a bolt shroud for a 96 Mauser with no safety. Keep in mind that if you use that bolt shroud, it will make bolt disassembly a bit more tedious, but other than that it will work fine.

[DnPRK]

That bolt shroud may not accept the Swede cocking piece without modification You may need to grind off the thumb tang, which isn't necessarily bad as it reduces the striker weight and therefore reduces lock time.

[seanhagerty]

I am not adverse to a little metal work to make this fit. Thanks for the heads up.

I guess I should ask before I get too carried away, how accurate could this get if I replaced the Original barrel with a commercial barrel in the same caliber?

Sean

[Unclenick]

How fast can a race car go? Depends how good the mechanics are and what the quality of the parts used are, as well as the car serving as the basis for the modifications? A bad gunsmith can make an expensive custom barrel worthless. A badly made barrel will defy a good gunsmith's best efforts.

I recommend you simply have the current barrel's crown checked and redone if need be, then see how it shoots? If not satisfactory, then start spending more money. In general, if a barrel is recrowned, your bolt lugs properly lapped and your bolt refaced to match the lapping job if necessary, and the gun properly bedded in a stock, there is no reason proper handload development can't get you to the 1/4 to 1/2 moa range. Occasionally even better.

[seanhagerty]

Thats what I wanted to hear. Its all about the parts and how we tinker with them.

[Jim Watson]

How accurate is it now?
A friend suprised me with 1.5 MOA from an unaltered '96 with the issue sights.

[HankC1]

Here you go, and it's on sale, too!
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=679486


Boyds has the same trigger for about $2 cheaper!

[Shorthair]

I did this a few years ago. I used a Timney trigger and the bold shroud previously mentioned. The stock was a semi-inletted unfinished walnut from Fajen's, which I believe is no longer available. Also, the bolt handle will need to be replaced if you intend to use a scope. I used this one:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8752/Product/UNIVERSAL_BOLT_HANDLE

This rifle, after cutting the barrel back to 23.5", consistently shoots 140 grain Nosler Partition handloads into 3/4 inch at 100 yards. Good luck on your project, post pics!

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc63/gspdave45/swede2008-1.jpg

[roberto mervicini]

Agree with UNCLENICK if your 6.5 is a good shooter keep the present barrel, recrown add the adjustable trigger and low swing safety so you do not need to change the bolt shroud nor modify the cocking piece or if you like invest on a new bolt shroud, modify the cocking pce and install the trigger group with safety incorporate go for and you done.
Here are mine sporterized
regards
______
roberto