View Full Version : 10/22 Problem

January 29, 2010, 06:42 PM
So I got to shoot my 10/22 some recently. I hadn't shot it in a few months prior to this. Anyway, the first time I sat a target up I'm not exactly how far it was. I just set it up. If I had to guess I'd guess 15-20 yards. I had sighted the gun in at 36 yards previously and it seemed to hit pretty closely about 50 yards too. Anyway, I shot and hit the bulls eye like usual. I shot probably 20-25 rounds and just had one big hole where the bulls eye had been. I noticed that the screw that holds the stock to the action had come loose though. When I got back to the house and got a screwdriver I tightened it down. The next day I shot in my normal spot which is approx 36 yards. It's about as far as I like to shoot my .22 and it's in a good location. Anyway, I shot it and it shot several inches high. I thought what the heck. This is where I'd sighted the gun in and it had shot great previously and even the night before. I wondered if my scope had gone bad as it's a Simmons that wasn't all that expensive. It's also old and has taken a fall or two in it's day and just not had the easiest life. I was really doubting the scope but I adjusted it and got it hitting the bulls eye again. Then I noticed that the screw had come lose again. I'm not sure what made it come loose either time. I've never had this happen in the past. I think it had been loose while I was sighting it in as I noticed my groups weren't as good as they had been. I had more fliers it seemed like and it was a little hard getting it sighted in.

Anyway, I thought I'd had it sighted in pretty decently. When I tightened the screw back up it hit several inches high again. I adjusted it down again and made sure that the screw stayed tight. I checked it after every few magazines. It stayed tight and it kept shooting the bulls eye. I shot probably 100 or 200 rounds after keeping it tight and it stayed zeroed perfectly. I even bumped the scope around with my hand a little and it still stayed zeroed perfectly like it always has.

What it seems to be is that when that screw is loose it shoots lower than when it's tight. Would this make sense? I've heard the action screws can affect the poi but I'd never witnessed it. Should I put some blue lock tight on this screw or should I just check every so often to make sure it's tight? Has anyone else experienced their 10/22 shooting higher like this after tightening the screw? Is there an explanation for it? Seems like since the scope would move with the receiver if the receiver moved in the stock it should always shoot the same even if the receiver is loose in the stock. However, that didn't seem to be the case. I guess my scope is good as it's always been but this screw thing has me at odds. What would make it come loose? I've never had it do that in the past.

January 29, 2010, 07:29 PM
I like to place a plastic washer under the take down screw on a 10/22. I call it the 15 cent accuracy job since it helps to stop the loosening and group wandering that you are experiencing. Working on the action/barrel bedding could also help since, ideally the shifting should only be minor with a loose versus tight screw rather than several inches at 20 yards.

Average Joe
January 29, 2010, 07:50 PM
My scope would never hold center, until I put in a bolt buffer. It took the shock out of the receiver and now the scope stays put. The buffer cost about $5 at midway.

Six Shooter Steve
January 29, 2010, 08:24 PM
Order yourself a hex aftermarket screw and they hold alot better. My charger is really picky on what poundage I torque mine too. Just find your sweet spot and keep it there.

January 29, 2010, 08:35 PM
Where can I get the hex screws? So is this screw loosing a common issue I take it? I'd just never had it happen that I know of before.

March 16, 2010, 11:47 PM
Anyone put any lock tite on these screws? Any negative effects of doing so as long as you use the blue?

March 17, 2010, 06:58 AM
Anyone put any lock tite on these screws? Any negative effects of doing so as long as you use the blue?

You could, just use a soldering gun to heat the screw to remove it. The heat well break the loc-tite grip.

If you do some searching at rimfirecentral.com about this you well find several solutions. It's important to use the same torque on the king screw every time you work on the rifle. There are several DIY pillar bedding fixes you can apply. This well eliminate the compressing of the wood and well help in accuracy goals.

I made this aluminum pillar for my rifle, it's epoxied to the stock and there is no wood compression.