View Full Version : Tightening / Re-tightening (Blue) Locktighted Screws

December 1, 2009, 12:31 PM
I just installed my Meopta Kdot on my Noveske using a Bobro QD mount. I used the "tighten by twisting the wrench using the index finger and thumb" rule until it stopped, then used the level part of the wrench to twist it another 1/12th of a turn. I then locktighted it. This was the advice several people had given me. Based on my calculations (and some crude math using a scale), I tightened it to roughly 20 lbs of torque, which is what I was aiming for.

I called Meopta in an afterthought this morning and they said that I should tighten it to double that, and that the limit of the kdot scope was 50-60lbs of torque. That seems insanely high to me, but whatever.

Now that my screws are locktighted, can I simply work each nut back and forth and then retighten it once it comes loose? What's the best way to tighten them further?

Thanks and regards!

December 1, 2009, 12:37 PM
The locktite has now dried, so in order for it to be effective, you'll have to remove the screws and apply new liquid locktite and retorqe. If you are starting to get a buildup of locktite, use a little acetone to remove it.

December 1, 2009, 01:03 PM
Also put the locktite in the cleaned threads just before torquing instead of after.

December 1, 2009, 01:11 PM
And that's probably Inch-Pounds of torque - so think 5 ft-pounds.


December 1, 2009, 02:38 PM
As you remove the screws, put the locktight on them right before you insert them. When you torque them use inch pounds.
Locktight on the outside of screws does very little.
I will mix two drops of locktight with one drop of oil to aid in later removal of the screws.
Meopta Kdot and Bobro QD mounts all use inch pounds.
my leaf springs on my pick up are torque at 60 foot pounds.

December 2, 2009, 11:20 PM
and allways remember, there is a difference between dry tourque and wet tourque.

John Clum
December 3, 2009, 12:13 AM
The axle nuts on my motorcycle need 60 lbs-ft of torque and I need two hands on my 18" torque wrench to get there! Anyways, as others have said, you misunderstood the Meopta guy.

If you can't loosen the locktite nuts, try a little heat. Heat liquefies locktite.

December 3, 2009, 09:58 AM
The locktite is applied to the screw threads. Only a small drop is needed, just enough to coat the threads. By the way only use BLUE grade locktite, the red stuff holds forever.

December 4, 2009, 09:44 AM
By the way only use BLUE grade locktite, the red stuff holds forever.

A soldering iron on the screw head will make short work of any grade of Loctite

December 4, 2009, 07:46 PM
I agree with the soldering iron (hot of course) suggestion, plus before that put a drop or two of Kroil on the screw. Kroil seems to eat into the loctitte a little bit and helps loosen it up.

December 4, 2009, 10:39 PM
then used the level part of the wrench to twist it another 1/12th of a turn. I then locktighted it.

Putting Loc-Tite onto a fastener that is already tight does nothing. Loc-Tite dries in the absence of air (that's why a new bottle is only 1/3 full).
Put it on the threads before assembly.

December 5, 2009, 05:06 PM
The grade you want to use is Loctite #242 you can get it at any auto parts store.

And there is a high temperture pernent thread locker that does not let loose unless heated to high temperature's. Much higher than you want to put on a gun surface.:D