View Full Version : gevarm 22

June 10, 2009, 12:03 AM
hello all, i am trying to fix my 22 gevarm, and i am looking for any internal pictures or diagrams so i can maybe figure out why this thing keeps firring full auto, any help would be awesome just want to get her back in the field, thanks

Bud Helms
June 10, 2009, 06:22 AM
Rifle or pistol?

Done an online search yet?


June 10, 2009, 09:29 AM
This was common to a lot of these (they fire from an open-bolt, which is why importation was discontinued); the single biggest reason is probably going to be a lot of crud built up on either the sear or the sear-step on the bolt, stopping the sear from catching the bolt when it comes back. Take it apart and clean it thoroughly, including the bottom of the bolt with a toothbrush and blowing the trigger-group out with Gunscrubber and compressed air, and then lightly oil it and reassemble it. If it still goes FA, then you likely have a broken disconnector, and you'll have to start looking for parts.
Edit: I don't know if you've ever had it apart, but they take down pretty simply; unscrew the forearm, and the bolt and barrel should pull straight out the front of the receiver.

June 10, 2009, 09:18 PM
the sear and step up have al been refinished and grad better than ever now, but still is full auto,,i have had the gun apart, just cant figure her out. what is the disconector?

June 11, 2009, 08:03 AM
The disconnector is one of the two parts you can see sticking up into the bolt raceway when you have the rifle stripped down and the bolt out of the rifle; the sear will have a flat face on the rear of it to engage the sear step on the bottom of the bolt, while the disconnector should be rounded, since the only thing it needs to do is get knocked back by the movement of the bolt to disconnect the sear. You also need to look at the other components in the equation; does the sear grab the bolt when you pull the bolt completely to the rear? If it does, then the ammunition you're using may not have enough "oomph" to kick the bolt far enough to the rear. If it doesn't, then you've got a mechanical problem in the trigger group that is going to require some hands-on evaluation.