View Full Version : Scope mounting advice

May 17, 2009, 11:02 PM
Hello, I'm just about to mount my new rile with a scope. It's a Howa 1500 with a medium Dednutz one piece mount and a Weaver V16 4-16x42mm scope. Beautiful setup and I am very excited to get it out to the range.

I've never mounted a scope before, but it seems to be a pretty straightforward process - install the mounts, install the scope into the mounts, align the crosshairs (I'm thinking of using a plumbline for this?), then I plan on boresighting at 100 yds (good or should I do 50 yds?) the traditional way - look through the chamber end and align the bore with the target 100 yds away, then adjust the scope so it gets centered on the paper. This should be enough to at least get me on paper at the range.

My questions are -

1. I plan on using Loctite (purple 222) on all the screws, as this is a .308 and I don't want anything coming loose; I want to do this after I have dialed it all in from the first trip to the range, or should I do this when I mount the scope for the first time?

2. Does the above method for scope mounting and boresighting methods sound good?


May 17, 2009, 11:51 PM
As far as I know (haven't been to a LocTite seminar in a few years) Purple is a pipe thread sealant.

I do it this way for hunting rifles.

Clean all parts with Denatured Alcohol.

Figure out your eye relief, dry fit.

Final assembly: Use just a drop of LocTite green (for bearing mounting) on the scope saddles and some blue on all of the screw threads. I just firmly snug the rings to the base(s) and then work on the scope position/securement. When that is done slack off on the ring screws and then torque the rings to the base(s).

A little clean up + 24 hrs. + oiling and you're off to find zero.

May 18, 2009, 12:22 AM
Clean the holes and screws with alcohol and the use medium removable loctite (blue) because you don't want to have to use a torch to get it loose later. Blue and 25 INCH-pounds (w/steel receiver) of torque and it won't go anywhere.

Locate the scope to give you the right amount of eye relief at all magnifications - this will change as you zoom the scope. Take your time and find the best spot. The best way to do this is to get a friend to help steady the scope in the bottom rings (so you don't drop it) while you shoulder the rifle with your eyes closed... now adjust the location of the scope. Now try it again. You need to check it at 4x and 16x and find a spot that works for both.

Now assuming it has a suitable flat spot level the rifle using a spirit level and then level the scope to the rifle. Keep checking as you tighten the rings because the scope will rotate as you tighten the rings unless you do it very-very evenly. Do not use loctite on the ring caps and torque to 15 INCH-pounds.

I like to start zeroing at 50yds. You should be able to get darn close to zero in 3 shots. That scope has 1/4 MOA turrets which means that at 100yds one click equals 1/4" of movement, or 1/8" at 50.

May 18, 2009, 12:57 AM
Ok thank you both. Sholling I know we have discussed this before but I wanted a refresher. Want to make sure I do it right.

How do you level the crosshairs? I may have missed it. Also, as far as leveling the scope, how do you do this? Looks like there isn't much of a flat spot on the scope. Just curious, but won't it automatically level itself as much as it can if everything is installed at the correct amount of torque?

May 18, 2009, 12:59 AM
IMHO, the best rings on the market are Burris Signature Zee Series with the plastic inserts.


This rings are the best things to come along in awhile and many people that compete use these on their expensive rifles and scopes.

Before I mount my scopes, I center the reticle in both directions.
Clean everything with rubbing alcohol and loosely mount scope so I can move it around and set eye relief.
Bore sight at 25 yards usually gets me close....within 3 inches or so @ 50 yards.
If I notice my scope is off at 25 yard bore sighted, I can correct it with the inserts in the Burris rings.....you'll see if you read about them.
The closer to a centered reticle you can keep your scope, the better off you are.
the inserts prevent marring and ring marks on your scope too.
They are just a good product.
I use the edge of a door or something to level my cross hairs.
I never had a problem with my scopes moving but blue loctite is not a bad idea.

May 18, 2009, 01:12 AM
Thanks dipper, but I really like the Dednutz one-piece setup. Seems like a good product. In my opinion, the less seperated pieces the better. One less thing to adjust.

I think for leveling crosshairs a plumbline would work perfect. No matter what, it will always fall true. In my opinion, a door edge is never going to be 100% true so it could be off. Just my thoughts. Thanks guys.

May 18, 2009, 01:19 AM

Depends how close your mounting holes are as to which system is best.
I had an action that the mounting holes were so far off, a one piece system wouldn't work....that's an extreme case though.

Center your scope first and then mount it and you will be able to tell how good everything is when you bore sight it.

Plumb line is a good idea and will always be true...good idea.
Door always worked fine for me, even if it is hanging off 1 inch in 7 feet, your plenty close enough.

May 19, 2009, 02:27 PM
I think I am going to give clear nail polish a try instead of using Loctite, I just think Loctite might be a little much for this application. People have had success with using this clear nail polish as an alternative.

Thanks guys for the advice I'm going to give it a shot here soon.

May 20, 2009, 06:27 PM
Another thing; I put the scope in the rings and did a mock-mount just to see how everything fit/looked, and it seems that the scope rings will not bolt down completely with the scope inside. There is about a 1/8" inch or so amount of give either way...so the tube is either too big or the rings are too small?

The scope tube is 1" and the one-piece mounts are made for a 1" tube.

Anyone else ever have this problem? Does this mean I need to lap the rings? Thanks.

bigger hammer
May 20, 2009, 09:54 PM
Do you mean that the flat of the top ring does not sit against the flat of the bottom ring when you tighten them up? If so, that's how it's supposed to be. The rings are supposed to pull tight against the scope, not against each other.

As you snug up the rings, make sure that there's an equal amount of space between the top and bottom ring on each side of the scope.