View Full Version : Hunting Hogs

May 13, 2009, 09:23 PM
I am going hog hunting tommorrow. Everyone here has been helpful in letting me know how to take care of the meat after harvesting a hog. I am taking my .308 loaded with 165 hornady sst. I plan to set up in the evening over a field or on a mountain side where there is a lot of sign. I scouted the area Monday. I am new to hog hunting. Here in Tn. we can't use bait. Dogs are only allowed in certain counties on certain dates. The county I am hunting in does not allow dogs. I have been searching and reading about hog hunting. There was not much information that didn't include using bait or dogs:confused: From what I gather, hogs should move more in the evening. I read that Black Gold works well? Anyone have any advise or see any problems with my plan? Any help would be appreciated.

May 14, 2009, 03:59 AM
toolguy, i checked to see if the, no bait restriction, applies to feral animals. i would think the hog would be on an unprotected animals list, but see where they are considered game animals. with the tennesse parks and game department statements about the harm the feral hog causes, seems like they would be open to baiting since that is the most effective way to hunt hogs. that aside, i would rather still hunt along water than hunt over bait. your spot and stalk method works well in open country. in my experience hogs are like smoke when they get in brush, you know they are close but hard to pinpoint.

May 14, 2009, 04:29 AM
For the most part in many areas, the Feral exceptions apply only to private land. If on public land they generally are treated under the rules of the WMA or general hunting laws of the ruling municipality, state, county etc.
Black gold can and does work to some degree. How fast is the question. Some fruitpunch jello powder can work as do some sow in heat scents etc. A burlap sack soaked in old motor oil and tied to a post or tree trunk can entice a rub but these all must be in areas of heavy traffic. If this is your first hog hunt, don't fret getting skunked as they are truly difficult to hunt in free range conditions with a gun. Just use it as another scouting trip and shake down run...

May 14, 2009, 06:49 AM
Birdshot, yes I was dissappointed to see that bait and dogs are not allowed. Twra says they really want you to kill them, made a point to write a big article this year in the regulations book, then don't allow you to use the best methods to harvest a hog. Rant over:D

Brent, I went monday and rode 4-wheeler trails and walked some. I was looking for sign (hog and deer) on this property lease I got in on. It is 5500 acres and my goal is to cover the property line and all trails. I am plotting all this on my gps so I can get a handle on where the wildlife will run to when pressured. Nearly every trail has hog tracks. Some places look like they put their nose down and plowed along the trailside. I found one area that was kind of swampy and it had alot of sign (tracks and rooting). I have not seen a waller yet though. There is a large creek that runs through the bottom with mountain on one side and field of grass on the other side. The field has spots that have been rooted. I was planning on sitting in a blind over this field this evening. Also about 200 yds or so up the mountain side is where the swampy area with the sign is. Does this sound like a ok plan? Would I be better off to sit over the sign on the mountain(would not have a lot of visibility)?

Thank for your help

May 14, 2009, 09:15 AM
With hogs it is so hard to pattern a "daily movement" routine. They can be in a 1/4 acre for days on end or cover miles every day. Once you learn the smell of a "rank boar" that lingers in the air, you will be getting a new tool in scouting. No wallows yet is likely due to low numbers of parasite bugs and moderate temps. I would plan a 2 week period for "mega scouting" no intent to hunt. I would take some 5 gallon buckest or presoured corn 2.5 buckets per bag. And put it out in all the locations of activity and any areas that look "hoggy" (water food and cover) but little sign and see if you propagate the area. The reason to do that is to see how fast the move to an area they were not hitting much before. In florida we can feed wildlife but not hunt over it. We can also hunt the area but must have the bait a certain distance from our selves. So personally I wouldn't worry about putting out corn if not hunting it. But your laws may be dead set against it making it your call.

May 14, 2009, 11:12 AM
We are allowed to feed all we want to in Tn. The feed has to be completely gone 2 weeks before hunting it. I see no problem doing what you recommended. At the risk of sounding stupid, how do you sour the corn?:o I assume you wet it and let it sour? Are the reasons for soured corn so other wildlife will not eat it, or because it can be smelled a good distance away? thanks for your help again.

May 14, 2009, 11:21 AM
I add a pack of bakers yeast {small envelope} to the corn. As much as one envelope or as little as divide one per 3 buckets. Basically it speeds it up and is making "sour mash". Without yeast a week is basically just starting to sour but with yeast a week is well on the way. It isn't sour like bad milk or dirty dish rags:barf:... Sour as in a good way:o

May 14, 2009, 11:40 AM
Fill buckets to within 3 inches of top, add yeast, top with water slowly poured. refill after several hours to replenish after corn absorbs. Loosely cover to keep bugs out if it matters to you... don't snap lids shut... they will pressurize hogs don't care about the bugs no way. One week in the sun is plenty if temps are in 80's afternoons but 2 weeks is not bad either.
To apply I drain juice from my scooper cup back to bucket, sling in a decent 100 or better square foot area with plenty of coverage (10 or more pounds at least per spot) as hogs are not grazers like deer the presence of excessive feed is not a spook factor. Use the juice to sling onto brush and low tree foliage. The scent will carry long distance as it started many feet above ground level.
You can also take post hole diggers and dig a 2 feet deep hole and fill to within 8-10 inches of top and cover with soil. Use a little kernel and some juice around surface areas to speed them finding it... They will root this spot up to dig out the corn. I use this technique so I limit human scent if they seem too shy as I can "check" activity from a great distance as it will be rooted when found. I have heard of using beer, eggs and other noxious ingredients in the corn but as a trapper and dogger these didn't increase my odds enough to offset the guaranteed gagging I did when baiting...