View Full Version : Mauser 6.5x55 swedish (sporterized) What can you tell me about it?

J S Machine
January 3, 2009, 05:10 PM
This is the last gun I have from all of of the hunting guns I'm trying to sell. I am in the market for a pistol, and I am trying to get rid of my rifles/shotguns to offset the cost.

I bought this gun at a gunshow and I paid $375. I needed a hunting rifle, and this one was the cheapest gun in the entire place, that was a complete outfit. I took it back today to another gun show and was trying to hopefully leave it there, but I had no luck. Most of the guys there told me between $250 and $300, and no one would take it. Even the few passer by's that saw the for sale sign on the stock would not buy it. One guy looked down the bore with a light, (The kind they use to look in to your ear at the doc) and he said the bore was gone. He said it would have to be re-bored.

Questions I have are- What is this gun worth as is, how much will it cost to get it re-bored, and will it stay the same caliber or will I have to step up? Also, If the bore is bad, why does it shoot good groups on a target? I have killed 4 deer with this gun, and no issues. I've probably put 100 rounds through it since I've owned it. The scope is a 3-9x32 armsport, and I don't think it is name brand but it is a good quality scope.

Things I found out at the show were that it has a birch stock, it would be worth more if it had the original stock, and that some of the setups were made by Kimber. How do I find out if mine was done by Kimber? It also still has the military sights. Here are some pics.


J S Machine
January 3, 2009, 05:11 PM

January 3, 2009, 06:22 PM
What do you need to get for it, I might go a hundred for the action and the stock....

January 3, 2009, 07:00 PM
That looks like a aftermarket stock that was quite available in the past for the Swedes. I had one at one time. If it shoots 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch max groups I would say the bore is fine. Otherwise you have a economically sporterised Mauser that looks to me like all was done was putting on scope bases and a military contour stock so you are gonna be faced with selling a non collectable rifle and probably will take a beating on it for sure. Then again you could just keep it if it shoots good.

J S Machine
January 3, 2009, 10:38 PM
I was hoping for a little more :o

It does shoot pretty good groups. Again, not really wanting to keep it. I want to sell it because I want a pistol. I don't hunt anymore and I have no need for it.

January 4, 2009, 02:57 PM
If someone offered $250-$300, you should have taken it. Old cobbled-together milsurp sporters are very common, and that one is not likely to be in much demand, although with that stock it is better than many I have seen. If you want to rebarrel it in 6.5X55, buy a surplus barrel and have it mounted and headspaced by a gunsmith.

FWIW, your rifle was not reworked by Kimber, as the rifles rebarreled by Kimber were marked with Kimber's name, and the ones I have seen were in 308 and had walnut stocks. The scope on your rifle probably cost less than $50, and the scope rail is poorly mounted.

January 28, 2009, 06:08 PM
I agree with Scorch.
I did mine several years ago, and have no intention of selling it, but I'd be surprised if I could get much more than $300 for it. It shoots 3/4" groups at 100 yards with handloaded Nosler Partitions.


January 28, 2009, 07:07 PM
You got royally screwed when you bought it. I've got two customs done up right with custom barrels, triggers and the whole nine yards. I wouldn't get much more than 300 for either one of them were I to try to sell them.

January 29, 2009, 05:17 AM
Sir, consider keeping your rifle. Here's what you can do...

1. Get yourself some Sweet's 7.62 solvent. Take it to the range, fire about 5 rounds fairly quickly to warm the barrel. Now, clean immediately with Sweet's, per the instructions. You will probably note all kinds of caked up crud and gunk coming out of that barrel. Patch it out, and clean it again, with Sweet's. This time, after working the patch in and out for 1 minute, let it sit in the bore (the cleaner) for about 3-5 minutes. Now, dry it out with patches. Make sure you get ALL the Sweet's out of the bore, chamber and off the muzzle. (If you don't have a bore guide, I seriously recommend getting one, along with a Dewey coated rod.)

Patch until COMPLETELY dry; then, neutralize the residue with two oil patches. Now, go after the bore with good old Hoppe's #9. Saturate the bore with a loose patch flooded with Hoppe's. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, and push a patch through. If it comes out with an evil green or blue color, then repeat the cleaning with Sweet's.

If by chance you know someone with a Foul-Out, you're ahead of the game. Put the rifle on the Foul-Out, and de-copper that barrel in accordance with the instructions.

After you have finished--whatever method you use--take your rifle, sit down with a steady rest, and fire for groups at 100 yards. I'm willing to bet that you'll be pleasantly surprised.

January 29, 2009, 10:14 AM
posted by: shorthair:


It looks like I'm not the only one who switches out military bolt handles, and fits one from a Remington 700 ! :)


January 29, 2009, 04:21 PM
Hi Pete,
Actually, that is a Brownell's bolt handle. I don't see any resemblance to a Remington bolt handle at all, looks more Ruger 77 to me... Yup, its this one

January 30, 2009, 03:36 AM
I kinda like the one on my F.N.98. It was left white to honor it's military history.


I like the one on my Smith Corona 03A3 better tho.


January 30, 2009, 11:09 AM
Ok, if I was gonna do it all over, I'd put this one on the Swede, and put the one on the Swede on this VZ-24.... Too late! :cool: