View Full Version : Walther P22 reassembly

July 27, 2008, 05:38 PM
Can anyone give me a hand with this? I removed the barrel to clean and noticed that the barrel nut does not tighten down enough on the front of the barrel to keep the barrel sleeve in the notch as instructed. There is about a 1/4" of play. I'm sure it was not seated from the factory. Am I just missing something here? The spring is no easy matter either... Thanks,

July 28, 2008, 01:16 PM
I had the exact same problems at first.

1. There is a small set screw in the top of the front "compensator" which you need to screw in before tightening the screws below. Really torque the bottom screws. There should still be some rotational play as the barrel itself moves a little rotationally. The only solution for removing the play is to add one of the lights/lasers onto the lower rail. I decided the rotational play was manageable.

2. There is a small plastic bar in the tools bag. Seat the spring uncompressed then put this small plastic bar through the spring. Install the slide over the small bar. The bar will slip out of the slide once you have it installed. There is a section of the owners manual which describes this part of the assembly pretty well.

July 28, 2008, 01:29 PM
Use the tool which came with it to reassemble the slide. Place it end-to-end with the guide pin, inside the spring.

The play is another issue. Mine tightens down fine. It should not move at all when you have it assembled correctly. I would NOT fire it until you figure out what you're doing wrong.

BTW - Are you talking about a 3.4" or 5" barrel?

July 28, 2008, 01:41 PM
Ok, I got the spring trick naied down, so thanks.

The pistol has the stock 3.4" barrel. The barrel nut simply was snug against the end of the barrel from the box. We shot the pistol and it was fine. But, it does not make sense that the barrel can just rotate around. I could probably tighten it down with the supplied wrench, but it would require alot of torque. I've found it is never a good idea to force things, so I hesitate to crank it down.

I'll take a look tonight and see if I can id the set screws. Meanwhile it is off line until I know it is safe.

July 28, 2008, 02:30 PM
I'm really confused as to how the barrel can rotate. It has a rectangular breech-end. Are you talking about the sleeve that slips over the barrel? The sleeve has a notch, which should catch at some point when you rotate it. Then, it will seat, and you can tighten down the barrel nut.

July 28, 2008, 02:41 PM
Here you go.


You may thank me later.

Seriously though, once you get the hang of how everything goes, it gets easier.

July 28, 2008, 03:16 PM
Quote: Are you talking about the sleeve that slips over the barrel? The sleeve has a notch, which should catch at some point when you rotate it. Then, it will seat, and you can tighten down the barrel nut.

Yes, exactly! The barrel nut when tightened to where it was before cleaning allows the sleeve to pull out forward so that it comes out of the notch and actually rotate. I was able to remove the barrel nut when cleaning by hand. (I did not even know the wrench was in the box.) So, when reassembling, I tightened the nut by hand and noticed the play in the sleeve backward and forward.

I guess the bottom line question is this? Should I tighten the barrel nut using the wrench all the way down so that it is flush with the sleeve? Is it normal to require alot of torque? I am sure I have not crossed the threads. Thanks again, Mike

David Hineline
July 28, 2008, 09:26 PM
The sleeve rotates and locks into the notch in the receiver block, the barrel is on the other side of the block, the nut pulls against the sleeve and draws tight and holds the barrel in place and tensions it for accuracy. Take the gun apart the the nut should spin onto the barrel threads all the way by hand easily, if not then fix the threads, nothing should be loose when assembled.

July 28, 2008, 10:25 PM
the the nut should spin onto the barrel threads all the way by hand easily, if not then fix the threads, nothing should be loose when assembled.

If that is the case, then I must have crossed threaded the nut by hand. Never done that before:) My choice is to order a nut or take it to a gun smith now. The barrel threads look ok to me. Thanks to all. Mike

David Hineline
July 29, 2008, 10:43 AM
Just to make sure I remember I got my gun and pulled off the silencer. With the 3.5" gun with the nut removed the barrel sticks out past the slide about 1/32 inch.
pull the take down latch, slide to the rear and up and off the front.barrel pushed forward against receiver block, no gap the receiver block should be right up against the barrel no gap or space. Barrel sleeve is now free to rotate and pull forward and back, one end of the barrel sleeve has a notch, this goes towards the back of the gun and rotates untill the barrel sleeve drops into the receiver block further and into the notch where it will no longer rotate. At this point with the barrel tight against the receiver block and the barrel sleeve in the rotational notch there should be 3/8" of barrel thread exposed. If only 5/16" threads are exposed then either the barrel is not forward against the block, or the barrel sleeve is not into the block and locked into the rotational notch. At this point no part of unthreaded barrel should be visible the threads continue under the barrel sleeve. Now the factory barrel nut should easily spin onto the barrel untill the smaller diameter flange of the barrel nut goes inside the barrel sleeve and it tightens up to a no gap condition between the barrel nut and the barrel sleeve, very fine threads, but very smooth spin on by fingers of the nut. This should totally lock the barrel sleeve and nut assy. into the receiver lug with no slop or movement. The barrel nut is threaded all the way through so flip the barrel nut over and see if you can get it to thread on backwards in case the threads in the nut might be damaged putting on backwards might clean up the problem, still even backwards it will spin all the way down against the barrel sleeve. Ok remove nut pull sleeve off front, hammer cocked push barrel out back of block, with a bit of alighnment tweaking it will pass the cartridge ejector block and out of the gun. Just a bit over 3/8" of threads and the nut should be able to spin easily on all of them. Once spun on just a bit of the barrel threads extend beyond the end of the nut.

If your nut is damaged a new one would come from Smith and Wesson as they are the repair shop for Walther in the US.

Or you can easily order one of the replacement nuts off the web that are designed to interface the Walther P22 to a silencer.


July 30, 2008, 10:18 AM
Well, to wrap this up, I just called Walther's 800# and they are sending me a barrel nut at n/c. Thanks again for your detailed responses. MH

August 1, 2008, 01:20 PM
Just got the nut in from [email protected] It threads on nicely. Do I just hand tighten this or actually use the wrench to tighten it further?