View Full Version : Browning Superposed refinish

July 2, 2008, 11:24 PM
I am about to receive a Pigeon grade Superposed free. I have not seen it lately but I do remember it's condition would bring tears to your eyes. It is salvageable and mechanically sound. I guess I am going to use Art's Belgian Blue. Does anyone have any experience? From what I understand you need to boil the parts for this. Plan on getting a piece of 8" pipe and welding up the ends and cutting it lengthwise leaving about a 4" trough to submerge parts. Fashion a 2-3" pipe again capped on both ends with a series of holes drilled in the top thread one end for a propane tank fitting, this will be the burner under the 8" pipe. Sound good? As far as rust removal I want to use electrolysis. The deal where you submerge steel part in water containing washing soda and connect negative end of battery charger to part and positive to steel rods also submerged in water but not touching any negative parts. I've heard this works great and will not hurt steel at all. My concern is if it will hurt the silver soldered vent rib. I think not, but would like your opinion. Since the blueing is rust blue on these old Brownings do you think it will remove blueing? I hope so. How about silver duracout for the receiver? Please reply with some advise quick b/c i will be getting it soon and would like to have the necessary ingredients from Brownells when I receive it. Thanks all.

July 2, 2008, 11:42 PM
If you don't know exactly what youre doing, or if youre going off of "what someone told you" dont go there. Poor refinishing will stick out like a sore thumb. Try someone like Fords or Glenrock and see what refinishing runs.

July 3, 2008, 12:05 AM
I have no doubt that I can do a good job on the polishing and blueing. My main questions are what you think about my boiler set up and if you know if the electrolysis will hurt the silver solder. But if for some reason I don't do a perfect job I've lost nothing but some time considering the guns current condition.

Bill DeShivs
July 3, 2008, 02:20 AM
Electrolysis will not remove pits from steel. Duracoat should not be in the same room with a Browning.

July 3, 2008, 02:25 AM
I don't think there is much if any pitting. If there is I will use fine sandpaper or scotch brite. I'm not real enthused about the dura-coat either but am on a pretty tight budget. how much do you think Robar would charge to NP3 the receiver? Or is there a cheaper good alternative?

Bill DeShivs
July 3, 2008, 03:10 AM
http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com can replate the receiver reasonably.
Most Browning receivers were satin chromed.

July 3, 2008, 08:45 AM
Your home made tank may work, but, you will need to have an air supply on your heating bar. If you don't you will not get as much heat burning raw propane and also get a sooty flame.

George R
July 3, 2008, 10:32 AM
To answer your question about electrolysis, it won't hurt the solder, and it will remove the blueing at the same time. I'm going to email you part of an article I wrote regarding electrolysis that I think will help you.
Don't be too sure your polishing will be OK, it's the hardest part of refinishing, takes the most skill and the longest tme to learn. You will need a mixer on the end of your burner to add air to the propane. Jantz Supply is cheaper than Brownells. Good luck to you andtheRedSox.

July 3, 2008, 10:44 AM
Send it to Browning

WildcheaperintimebetterinqualityAlaska TM

July 3, 2008, 02:37 PM
Send it to Browning. The money's spent will be worth it!!!! Anyone else doing a refinish on it will be a so so reblue. Having the factory reblue will add value to the shotgun. Good luck TF

July 3, 2008, 05:19 PM
Send it to Browning
Another vote for sending it to Browning. Browning is intimately familiar with refinishing their shotguns, and they do an excellent job.

My concern is if it will hurt the silver soldered vent rib. Vent ribs are not silver soldered onto the barrels, they are soft soldered on. This is another good reason to send it to Browning.

But if for some reason I don't do a perfect job I've lost nothing but some time considering the guns current conditionActually, you could lose the whole gun if the solder goes. The cost of disassembling, cleaning, resoldering and ranging the barrels is considerable. Browning can also refinish the wood for you, and their prices are very reasonable. I have restored guns that the owner gave to me as unsalvageable and had them turn out absolutely beautiful. Browning can do the same.

July 5, 2008, 04:00 PM
Wildalaska and others with the good suggestion, I do think I will send it to Browning. Let's just say there is no pitting and slight surface rust. Have any idea what they would charge to do the barrels and nickel receiver. Don't need to send the wood. Also do you think having invectors installed on a refinished gun would significantlly hurt the value? Thanks, Publius

July 5, 2008, 05:55 PM
There is not enough metal in the barrels for Invector chokes. If you really want them and feel flush with bucks, you can probably get Briley to install chokes, but I would just keep it as-is.

July 5, 2008, 07:59 PM
Thanks Scorch, sorry w/all the questions I can probably answer myself when I pick it up, but I'm exited and love talking to you all about it plus getting valuable info. You already talked me into sending it to Browning, which I appreciate, it's the right move. it's the Broadway model. You know, the one with the really wide rib. Do you know the probable chokes? I'm thinking full/full.

Jim Watson
July 5, 2008, 09:38 PM
My old Broadway is full and improved modified. Is yours too rough to see the markings on the left side of the barrel breeches? A star is full, *- is improved modified. I think ** is modified and **- improved cylinder.

July 5, 2008, 11:29 PM
It's probably full/modified or like Jim said full/imp mod. That was considered the best for all around field use.