View Full Version : High Standard Duramatic Assembly - Any tricks?

June 5, 2008, 06:57 AM
Duramatic M101 , High Standard 22 pistol- I took the barrel off to clean it and can not seem to get it back together.
I have the frame(handle, 2 springs , striker, and the slide.

Problem is that the slide will not go all the way back (toward the back of the gun) but stops about 1/4 inch from the back. It does this even without the striker and the two springs installed, that is, something is keeping the slide from going back all the way.
Help please. The High standard d instructions just say put the slide on, push it back, and lock it back with the safety. But it does not go back the last 1/4 inch or so, gun not modified or damaged.

Thank you.

June 5, 2008, 09:10 AM
cant remember the last time i had mine apart, but you might try pulling the trigger to see if its cocked, then pull it back. otherwise disassemble again and start all over, something might not be lined up.

James K
June 5, 2008, 07:57 PM
The Duramatic can't be cocked with the slide off but the sear can interfere with reassembly. Try pulling the trigger and holding it back while you install the slide.


June 5, 2008, 08:53 PM
And I do not know the name of the part
(I have ordered a schematic from Numrick (sp) ) was that a pointed metal piece that only comes out of the front of the slide when its all the way back, was bent up just a bit- enought to catch on the slide- is this part the shell ejector? Not the extractor. the part is fixed to the frame of the gun, not the slide.
will go to the range tomorrow.
no idea how it got bent tho- was bent up just a little

June 6, 2008, 02:21 PM
is that the magazine, when you push it into the gun, - the back left edge lip just hits the end of the ejector bending it up just a little 1/2 milimeter or less- thats not a problem- til you run the slide forward and remove it and then it will not go back on because the inside of the slide hits the raised tip of the ejector.
Are all high standards like this?

I do not think grinding off some of the rear lip on the mag is the answer????

James K
June 6, 2008, 09:30 PM
The ejector is pinned to the frame, so I am not sure what "comes out of the front of the slide." If the magazine hits the ejector, I would see no problem in taking a bit off the magazine, but it should not do that. The mag may be an after market replacement or something might be allowing it to go too far in.

"Are all High Standards like that?" No, thank heaven. To be honest, that Duramatic was a neat design but the spring balance requirement gave nothing but trouble from day one. They were trying to compete with Ruger on price and failed.

The same design was later used by Colt (they called it the "Cadet" until the owners of the Iver Johnson trademarks threatened to sue, then they called it the "Colt .22"). Now Beretta has taken the gun up and (AFAIK) is still making it as the NEOS. I can only hope it works better for them than it did for HS and Colt.


June 7, 2008, 02:59 PM
jim the thing I call the ejector is indeed fixed to the frame (sorry about terminology, I have ordered a schematic from numrich) and it "comes out of the slide front" only when the slide is pulled all the way back by hand- then you can see it. Thats probably the place where the slide is pushed back to - pushed by the shell power when the slide cycles.

Yes tis a replacement magazine- the original one was stolen but they did not get the gun.

What do I do? put some tape on the magazine "foot" to keep it from going up too far? . Afraid to graind off the left rear magazine lip as the mags are tricky as the are now. it (mag) probably comes up just a 1/3 mm too much

James K
June 8, 2008, 11:36 AM
Since the only thing that keeps the magazine from going up too far is the grip, you might try temporarily gluing some cardboard to the grip where the magazine lip stops. Then if that seems to fix it, you could permanently glue on a piece of plastic. The only trouble would be if dropping the magazine down that little bit might result in failure to feed. Those kinds of problems are usually a matter of "cut and try", although it is better not to actually cut anything until you can be sure it is the right thing to do.