View Full Version : Questions about Brownells Gun Kote

May 28, 2008, 09:00 AM
I have a new 1911 I've done work on IE dehoned entire pistol, put on a new beavertail safety and in doing so now need to refinish my pistol. Working on a budget I figured this Gun Kote might be the route to take could people give me some input.my questions:
since it's a new gun would it be neccessary to have to strip this down and have it blasted or can I shoot right over the parkerizing if so will it adhere to the few bare metal spots that I have?
I read somewhere you dont need to sandblast you can submerse in muratic acid is this true if so does it really work,holdup and whats the procedure.
since I do have some bare metal spots does the entire pistol have to be reparkerized for this application? I'm hearing 2 different stories here about spray some are saying the can is fine others are saying it isnt you have to airbrush Believe the steps are: degrease,sandblast,parkerize,heat and spray,since this is a new pistol can I skip any of these steps? if I can my only concern is it adhereing to the bare spots from my dehoning. thanks for info and help in advance.

May 28, 2008, 11:07 AM
Yes, you can apply it to bare metal but it adheres better over Parkerizing. The problem with applying it over existing Parkerizing is the oil. Parkerizing get's it's durabilty because it's soaked in oil right after being 'Parked. Your chances of getting all of that oil 100% out of your existing 'Park are slim to none. Yes, it has to ALL be out or the new finish will lift off of the "oily" spots.

This is why we will not apply our Tuff-Gun finish on any existing Parkerizing. We will abrasive blast off all of the old finish and build the new finish up on a clean base.

But, all is not lost: If you work at it in steps, you should be able to get most of it out. First disassemble it down to the bare frame. It's ok to leave the plunger tube on but the ejector should be removed. (Oil hides under it) Wash it in Mineral Spirits, then hot soapy water, then heat it to a couple of hundred degrees for an hour or so. Then soak it overnite in Acetone. That should wick all or most of the oil out of the Parkerizing. (Use fire cautions)

Any shiny spots need to be roughed up. KG (They make the Gunkote) also makes a product called Phos-Coat or something like that for pre-treatment on bare metal.
Regarding curing Gunkote: Use an old toaster oven for curing it. Many of the Gunkote's contain lead and they all contain some really nasty chemicals. Do not use your kitchen oven for curing the finish. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All
Mac's Shootin' Irons

May 28, 2008, 12:29 PM
Many of the Gunkote's contain lead and they all contain some really nasty chemicals. Do not use your kitchen oven for curing the finish.Besides the nasty chemicals, if your wife figures out you used her oven to make the whole house smell like melted plastic, she'll put your head on a stake in the front yard.

May 28, 2008, 01:57 PM
Scorch knows... He's typing to y'all from the front yard!:eek:

May 29, 2008, 07:36 PM
how about sandblasting do you have to use the aluminum oxide or can you get away with using regular dust?

May 30, 2008, 01:01 AM
For blasting firearms, I highly reccomend using a glass bead blaster, not sand blasting, not shot blasting. If you must use sand, use the finest grit you can possibly find, no larger than 100 grit.