View Full Version : re-finishing stock tonite - how much did I mess up ?

April 13, 2008, 12:02 AM
:o I am re-finishing an old 2nd hand 40x stock for a CMP 40x ( this is maybe the 6th-7th stock I have done ) . It has been stripped and I sanded it tonite , and it was just a little to light colored to suit me . I dug around and found an old can of min-wax walnut stain , and slapped a coat on . I didn't notice 'til when I went out to wipe off excess that this stain was -is oil based .
My usual procedure is to seal a stock w/ tung oil mixed w/ mineral spirits so it's nice and thin and soaks in well. WELLLL, this stain already seems to be starting that process , and I would ideally like it darker than this 1st coat - treatment of stain has made it . Should I seal it before I apply any more stain , or just stain to suit me then proceed as normal under assumption that if sealer soaks it it will seal the stock and if it doesn't soak in that means it's already sealed ? reading the can ( after applying :o oops)- gives me the impression that minwax considers this to be sealer - but it's intended for furniture ( I cannot recall when or why I bought this or what I used it for ). Fortunately this isn't meant to be a showpiece or an all weather warrior . it'll survive.....

I'm going to bed now . maybe someone on the west coast or a nite owl can have some good advice waiting for me for Sunday afternoon ....Thanks !

April 13, 2008, 08:57 AM
Experiment under the butt plate or inside the stock in a couple of small spots where it won't show.I oil or wax my stocks inside and out including all bolt and screw holes with pipe cleaners.A sealed stock will not change with humidity and getting caught out in bad weather won't hurt it.I do not dilute tung oil.I buy and use it uncut.I only apply a little at a time and rub it in bare handed,throughly rubbing it hard enough to create heat with friction.This is the way I was taught by a old 50's gunsmith and stock maker.I was also taught that you did not "Slick finish a military stock unless it was to be a show piece"."You must be able to hold on to a field stock in the mud,the blood and the guts in battle"."A slick stock will get you killed".I heard this from a trio of uncle/nephew/son vets about 1955.Between the three.They had served in the Spanish American War,WW1,invaded Russia at Archangel,WW2 and Korea.That was experience talking and I was a kid and all ears.


April 13, 2008, 09:02 AM
I've used MinWax on stocks before with good results. Don't seal it if you want to apply more coats to darken it up.

April 13, 2008, 09:42 AM
Alfred "I do not dilute tung oil.I buy and use it uncut.I only apply a little at a time ..."

Sorry if I was unclear . When I referred to using diluted tung oil , that was to seasl the stock only . It soaks in deeper and adds a little protection in case of a bad ding/dent . I'm with you on applying the finish after sealing ....

Hawg -"I've used MinWax on stocks before with good results. Don't seal it if you want to apply more coats to darken it up".

Thanks Hawg . I think plan is-will be to add another coat of stain then seal ( mainly insideand butt- i didn't stain those ) w/ tung oil mixture ...


April 13, 2008, 09:50 AM
Try another coat of stain and see if it reaches the darkness you're desiring. If not, purchase a darker colored stain & try again. My advice (purely a preference)...don't get it too dark. It's hard to bring it back the other direction & make it lighter again. You might consider a satin polyurethane treatment after the stain is right. That would look similar to tung oil finish, but seal in the color better and help prevent grime from getting into your wood finish when you're finished. You've gone to alot of work...no sense going through this again. Minwax makes an excellent satin polyurethane (try Home Depot)...

April 13, 2008, 12:06 PM
Just looked at a can of MinWax non polyurethane and it seals too so no extra sealer is needed. Non polyurethane feels fuzzy when it's dry so take some 0000 steel wool and buff it till it's slick.