View Full Version : Rust on barrel...
Uncle Ben
April 1, 2008, 11:30 AM
My father-in-law has a Remington 12 gauge that has not really been taken care of (I think the model is called "sportsman" or something similar). It has been in a soft case in a shed for at least the last couple years. Anyway, I asked if I could borrow it to shoot, but of course offered to give it a full clean up. I have not been able to inspect the bore for rust or buildup yet, but there is a bit of rust on the outside of the barrel that is seen immediately, so I wanted to find out the best way to remove it.
What would you do to this gun to insure that it is ready to shoot and is cleaned up properly in general?
Forgive me, I'm not entirely new to shotguns, but have never cleaned one, yet...
Doyle
April 1, 2008, 12:28 PM
Breakfree CLP and 000 or 0000 steel wool. Be sure and get all the steel wool fibers off when you are done (compressed air works great).
Uncle Ben
April 1, 2008, 01:08 PM
Perfect. I will do exactly that Doyle. Thanks.
I am also wondering whether I should buy one of those OTiS tactical cleaning systems that handle every caliber, since I only have one that handles .38 and 9mm
Would anybody recommend that one, or should I just go with the typical multi-gun cleaning kit will the standard rod?
BigJimP
April 2, 2008, 07:37 PM
Breakfree is a good solvent / corrosion inhibitor but I think a product called "Rig Oil" might be a little better. I would only use steel wool / or a green kitchen scrubby as a last resort on a barrel to take that rust off because I think you'll see marks where you cleaned it.
A good woodworking store has a number of products to take rust off of cast iron table saws, etc - and they have some rust removers that I think I would try with just a soft toothbrush to work them into the metal and then wipe them off and see how it looks. Since it isn't your gun, I'd go a little less aggressive to start with - but he's the one that left it in the shed to get rusty too ...
To clean the gun - pick up a generic, fits all gagues, cleaning rod kit at your local sporting goods outlet. You can add brushes for 20ga, 28ga etc down the road. There are a lot of good solvents out there. You might get one of your buddies to show you how to take that gun apart / clean the barrel and the action especially if it hasn't been cleaned or lubed in a couple of years especially if its a pump gun or a semi-auto.
Doyle
April 2, 2008, 08:29 PM
I've seen some very nasty looking guns brought back to life with just CLP breakfree and 0000 steel wool. I've yet to see it ruin a blue job as long (of course, I'm not dumb enough to bear down hard and deliberately try and wear through the bluing.)
Superhouse 15
April 2, 2008, 08:53 PM
You might try a fine grade of Copper wool instead of steel. RIG makes a lube called "+P" lube thats nice, but really any oil works about as good as the next.
Tuckahoe
April 2, 2008, 11:47 PM
Spray on a good coat of penetrating oil and let it sit a day or two to soak into the rust then start with the 0000 steel wool repeat several times and it will come right off.
Ruger4570
April 2, 2008, 11:58 PM
Be very careful with "rust removers" many contain Phosphoric Acid that will not only remove the rust, but also the blueing. Just use #0000 steel wool and an oil of your choice. I would be hesitant to use any over the counter "Rust Removers"
Tuckahoe
April 3, 2008, 12:02 AM
Go slow you only want to remove the rust.
evan9201
April 3, 2008, 12:06 AM
soak it down with a penetrating oil ..WD-40, liquid wrench..ect and let it sit over night a clean it off with scrub pad or if it will work try a rough rag. then give everything execpt the stock a coating of hoppies #9 or other gun oil to protect everything else. if you want to know how to clean a gun just use the search fuction.
Bill DeShivs
April 3, 2008, 12:19 AM
Don't use a kitchen scrubbing pad. They are the same as Scotchbrite pads, and they will remove bluing as easily as sandpaper.
10-96
April 3, 2008, 01:24 AM
I don't get fancy or technical- I've never been let down by using 0000 steel wool and mineral oil (the exact same stuff found down in the "I can't poop" section at Wal-Mart pharmacy areas). It works just fine and dandy and works well into the pores of the metal and does as good as anythig to prevent future rust.
nutty ned
April 3, 2008, 01:59 PM
I've had some good luck with breakfree and a rotary nylon brush on a dremel.
Uncle Ben
April 3, 2008, 02:46 PM
Thanks everybody. I need to get some CLP anyway, so I'll definitely pick that up. I already have a few bottles of mineral oil (for woodworking use), so I may start with that first. For a nice big bottle of that stuff, the price is definitely right!
By the way BigJim, are you a woodworker yourself?
BigJimP
April 3, 2008, 07:08 PM
Yes, Uncle Ben
I'm not a furniture maker - but I do a little woodturning - peppermills, some pens and a few bowls. I also make a fair number of boxes - some with exotic hardwoods, etc I've refinished a few gunstocks - but refinishing is just not that much fun ... Lately, I've been working on some plans and will be trying to make some nice detailed wooden vehicle models ( Peterbilt Trucks, low boy trailers, lumber yard log haulers, and some older pickup models ). So I'm shopping for a new bandsaw as we speak ....and waiting for the woodworking show to come to town at the end of the month .... a man can't have too many hobbies ( or too many guns for that matter ). How about you ?
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