Slide rusted shut!!!

[billydiesel]

I recently recieved a pistol from my grandfather, that had been set aside for many years. The slide is rusted shut and I have soaked it in solvent for about a weak and still can't move it. The gun does have sentimental value, and I would really like to make it work again if possible.
Does anyone have suggestions on how I can free the slide. The pistol itself is not really rusted. only where the slide and frame come together. But the rust is really bad there. I have already confirmed there is no round in the chamber, so that is not a concern.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Billy

[Peter M. Eick]

Well I would start with the cheap solvents first. Since you have to dunk the whole gun, pull the grips off first and either start with diesel or kerosene. From you handle, I would start with diesel.

Do it outside away from sources of ignition and just let it sit in a bucket for a few days. Diesel is a pretty reasonable solvent for a lot of thinks.

If that does not work, try something thinner like liquid wrench but that gets expensive to dunk it.

[Night Watch]

:) Here, I'll do you a favor and share a formula that a master gunsmith who regularly turns out some of the most beautiful firearm restorations I've ever seen told me about:

Remove any wood from the gun. Mix equal parts of, 'Kano Kroil' and non-chlorinated brake cleaner. (Gun Scrubber) Soak the affected parts for as long as overnight. Then start lightly tapping them with a non-marring hammer. They should come apart.

If they don't, PM me; and I'll tell you who to send them to. ;)

[Chris_B]

Might also consider an ultrasonic cleaner and Kroil, or PB'Laster

I know not everyone has an ultrasonic bath handy, but the ultrasonics can perform minor miracles of cleaning

[armoredman]

BTW, can we see pics of the sidearm?:)

[4V50 Gary]

Let it soak overnight. Then mount the frame in a vise and tap on the slide with a rawhide mallet. If you don't have one, put a piece of wood against the slide and whack it. I place it right above the barrel and beneath the slide when I give it a whack.

[Odd Job]

Since you have to dunk the whole gun, pull the grips off first and either start with diesel or kerosene. From you handle, I would start with diesel.

:D

[George R]

Let me reinforce what 4V50Gary said. Make sure there isn't a round in the chamber. Put a dowel or stick in the muzzle, measure how far it goes in and then compare it to the ouside distance muzzle to breech. I can't tell you how many "Katrina" guns I've had in that were loaded. If the inside/outside measurements indicate a round in the chamber, tip up the bbl, fill it with oil and then wait a month. Then wait some more. Then start to work.

[Night Watch]

:) Good advice; but, that's a lot of, 'extra work for mother'. Just soak the whole assembly in a mixture of Kano Kroil and Gun Scrubber as mentioned above. That'll take care of BOTH problems at the same time; and, it won't take no month, either. The stuff is terrifically penetrating; a week, at most, will ruin the powder and temporarily disable the primer.

(And, a bright light down the barrel should tell you what's in there, too.) ;)

[Hunter Customs]

Bright light and a mirror to check for a round in the pipe.
I've had good results using automatic transmission fluid as a penetrating oil.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

[newerguy]

It's not an old stainless steel pistol by any chance, is it?

[Cowart]

What is the make and model? What position is the safety in? (on/off, up/down, etc.)

[RsqVet]

assuming no obvious reason other than rust / gunk et. al my vote is always for an ultrasonic with penetration oil of your choice... heck some of them you can get for 3oo bucks or so. The combination of time and ultrasonic action should yield results if it's not horrific.... I'd give it an hour a couple of times a day for a week before I even tried to mess with it...

[T. O'Heir]

Solvents don't do anything about rust. You need to soak it in penetrating oil.
"...the rust is really bad there..." You might get it apart but you won't get it working. The metal on both the slide and the frame will be too far gone.

[billydiesel]

Thanks for the suggestions. I can't take pics right now but I will post them later. It is a little beretta 25acp. It is definately empty, You can see all the way down the barrel looking in the mirror with a light. The outside is in good shape, almost no rust. Just around the slide. Or I should say where the slide and frame come together. It's like someone would wipe down the outside frequently, but never took it apart.
Anyway, if I can get working that would be great. but until I can get it apart, I can't see what condition the inside is in. But thanks for all the suggestions. I will keep ya'll posted on how it's going.

Thanks
Billy

[Bill DeShivs]

What model Beretta? The 950 has an aluminum frame, so it can't be rusted. The older model Beretta .25 had a steel frame.

[Harry Bonar]

Sir:
If it is steel on steel and no part is engaged that would prevent its movement a light blow with a small ball-pien hammer will do wonders - far more than a great blow with a big hammer - try it with a bronze punch as the driver - hit small light blows.
Harry B.

[gb6491]

Let me second the recommendation that Chris-B made for Blaster's PB Penetrating Catalyst (http://www.pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1); great stuff and available at Auto Zone and many other parts stores.
Regards,
Greg

[Jammer Six]

I refuse to look into the muzzle of a weapon that I haven't cleared.

[jcadwell]

How about electrolytic rust removal? It should penetrate and remove just the rust.

[danrifle]

Has anyone else used EvapoRust for situations like this ? NRA gunsmithing school recommends it highly. evaporust.com. Works for me but does leave a dull black finish which easilly polishes off.

[Harry Bonar]

Hey guys!
Old Fred Cox, long gone told be after eaons of experience, "Boy, if it won't move 'bile it in oil.'
Harry B.

[DWARREN123]

Kano Kroil. Will creep in to where the rust is and break it loose.