Remington 1100 maint. question

[sauto456]

put about 80 rounds through the old 1100 this weekend. There was a light mist rain, but I wiped down all metal surfaces with an oily rag each night. I always clean the gun after shooting it at the end of the weekend. When I went to clean it last night, I pulled the fore end off and the entire magazine tube where the O-rings are was completely rusted. The O-rings were literaly rusted in place.

This has happened before when shooting more than 50 rounds and then cleaning the next day. I noticed the blueing has worn off the magazine tube under the fore end.

Is this a typical problem with 1100s? Is there a way to prevent it or do I just wipe the rust off each time and keep going?

thanks guys

[JWT]

The blueing on the end of the magazine tube on my 1100 is pretty much worn off - has been since I started to shoot it regularly for trap. I've never had any rusting on it even after shooting more than 100 rounds and waiting a day or more to clean it.

You might try cleaning it the day you shoot and see if that makes any difference. Certainly the light mist the day you shot may have had some impact on it if it wasn't wiped down when the rest of the gun was.

Remington has a number you can call to ask questions on maintenance etc. You might try that and see what their 'experts' say.

[auto45]

General rule I follow is if it rains, the sooner the better to wipe it down. Wipe down means remove the water in this case(paper towels) and then spray/wipe with a light oil. Rem-oil is good.

So, remove the forend, bbl after shooting, wipe down and spray with a light oil over the parts...light spray! Takes 5-10 minutes.

Pretty much true for any blued gun, or at least where the blueing is worn off!

[BigJimP]

What you describe is not uncommon - if you don't keep a light film of oil on the gun ( it's not unique to the 1100 ). I use Rig oil - and just a light film.

This can also happen on Over/Unders if you shoot them in the rain - and don't remove the stock and clean/dry out the springs, firing pins, etc behind the breech (inside the stock). I also use a light coat of Rig Oil on all of my O/U's as well.

Storing a gun where it will dry completely, and not get any condensation on it - and not storing it in a case - is important as well. A gun needs to dry and have good air circulation if at all possible. Rust happens quickly as the nights cool and condensation collects on metal parts if the gun is stored in a humid environment.

[Picher]

I've never had a problem with my 1100, but I use a very light coat of Break-Free on the magazine tube and all the other parts. When out in the rain, I'll not place the gun in a case when wet. That's a big no-no!!!

When I get home or to the hunting lodge, I take the gun apart immediately and wipe off the moisture, then apply Break-Free.

Some people use other types of oil on their guns, including motor oil. Many oils DO NOT deter rust!!!

Try this test with your favorite oils: Take a piece of un-rusted clean and degreased steel. Apply various types of oils to spots, marking the types used. Then, take a very aggressive cold blue and put a drop on each oil spot. If that doesn't separate the good, the bad and the ugly, leave the steel plate out in the rain for a few days.

The worst thing a person can do to their guns is to put them in a damp gun case, throw the case into the trunk of a car, and leave it parked out in the sun for a few hours. That will rust metal faster than about anything I know. Try that with your metal test plate.

Picher

[charlie in md]

The oil attracts and retains the particles from the gunsmoke. On mine, I clean the tube with solvent, wipe it down, and may steel wool it if there are any small patches of residue. I do the same thing to the inside of the gas seals. Once it's completely clean and dry, I re-assemble the gun.

vr
Charlie