View Full Version : Savage Arms Model 6A: Need info

April 30, 2007, 07:50 PM
I've inherited my dad's old Savage .22 6A. I am needing instructions on cleaning, fieldstripping, maintenance, etc. I want to give it a good cleaning and take it to the range to try out. I am hoping there would be a .pdf manual available online.

There is a lot of rust on the exterior of the barrel. I am hoping its not too bad inside the bore.

Anyway, the manuals will help. Anyone?

M1 Carbine, Colt .45 1911, Walther PP 7.65

T. O'Heir
May 1, 2007, 12:39 AM
There's this. There doesn't seem to be a manual though. http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-6a-6ab-6b.html
Take the rust off with a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder(eye protection is required) or 0000 steel wool and some light oil.

May 1, 2007, 11:15 AM
An excellent way to remove surface rust from a barrel is to use the finest grade of bronze wool available from Brownells. Used by hand with a good grade oil such as Kroll or Cenzoil, the rust can be removed without removing the blueing which may come off if you use steel wool. I have successfully used this technique on many guns and never had to worry about removing the underlying blueing.

James K
May 1, 2007, 05:54 PM
I can only wish you good luck. Those may not have been the worst .22 autoloaders in the world, but if they weren't I don't know what was.

They are tricky. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer is released to go forward with the firing pin to fire the round. The bolt blows back against the force of two springs, then locks back. When the trigger is released, the bolt goes forward, chambering a round. When the trigger is pulled again, the cycle starts over.

The whole system depends on springs counterbalancing springs, and when any of them gets weak, the gun starts giving trouble. At one time, parts were easy to get and I fixed a lot of them. But repairs were never permanent and were rarely cost effective, and most of those guns were finally stuck in the corner in disgust. They are also very ammunition sensitive, so if your first brand doesn't work, try some other brands and types.

This is not intended to discourage you, only to let you know what you might be in for if you go ahead with trying to get the gun to shoot.


May 2, 2007, 01:49 PM
Thanks for the info, guys. Much appreciated


T. O'Heir
May 5, 2007, 12:51 AM
0000 steel wool and oil doesn't bother the bluing. Mind you, both the steel wool and the brass wheel are meant for light rust only. If the rust is flaking the steel has been eaten away. It may or may not be a big deal, depending on how much steel has rusted away. It's certainly not as big a deal on a .22 as it is on a centre fire.
If there's any pitting, the rust will come off, but the pits won't. Pitting is caused by the rust eating into the steel. Light pitting isn't the end of the world, safety-wise. It's just unsightly.