View Full Version : 1911 Failing to go into battery

August 12, 1999, 03:53 PM
The past two times that I have fired my 1911, it has failed to go completely into battery about 6 times. The round begins to chamber, but the cycle halts with the slide about 1/4 of an inch to the rear of locking. Thumb pressure puts the gun into battery. What could be causing this problem? Or is this normal when breaking in an new gun (so far only 221 rounds through it)? Please no flaming the 1911 or the breaking in period. I see a gun much like any other mechanical device, I believe it takes a little while for the parts to wear to where they fit and function perfectly. Thanks.

August 12, 1999, 03:59 PM
You might check the headspace. If there's crud in the chamber, that can reduce the headspace, thus preventing the slide from going into battery.

A vote for the lesser of two evils is still a vote for evil.
Vote Libertarian - For A Change.

August 12, 1999, 04:06 PM
What type of ammo are using wadcutter, ball or hollowpoint? What type of magazine are you using G.I., Wilson, Les Baer? Look at the roof of the barrel chamber check for leading or fouling. Put an empty magazine and lock the slide back check the distance of the magazine feed lips to the throat of the barrel. Check the magazine follower and spring. Hope these helps

August 12, 1999, 04:37 PM
Had this problem on my Springfield. The extractor was real "tight". Had a buddy of mine tune it, and at the same time polished the breach face. Problem solved. If it wasn't a new gun, low round count, I'd say also look at the recoil spring. Check it versus a new one. Is it "short"?

August 12, 1999, 05:54 PM
What type of ammo were you using, factory or reloads? Was your chamber gunked up? I've had the same problem in the past. For me it's always been bad ammo (my reloads) or a really dirty chamber (my fault) Joe


James K
August 12, 1999, 09:17 PM
Some additional thoughts:

Check the breech face for roughness; the case rim must slide smoothly up under the extractor.

Check the extractor and see if the hook is properly shaped, and is rounded and slightly open at the bottom. Again, the case must slip under it. A sharp edge will prevent that.

You didn't say the make of your gun; some are better made than others. A few makes have simply been atrocious.


P.S. Don't let me get started on brand new guns that won't work without some kind of magic and expensive "break in" period. I tend to get very irritated.


[This message has been edited by Jim Keenan (edited August 12, 1999).]

August 13, 1999, 04:49 PM
Also try OILING the gun.
Don't trust it to be well lubricated after 200+rnds outa the box ! ;)

"The Gun from Down Under !"

August 16, 1999, 11:34 AM
I have a Ballister Molina that had a weak
recoil spring and had caused burrs of metal on slide where it would hit the frame in full
recoil, had to file burrs off and replaced with factory Colt 18 1/2 pound recoill spring
now it cycles every time, also put a Buff pad
on and no more battering between slide and frame.

August 16, 1999, 12:56 PM
I put an 18.5 Wollf recoil spring in and oiled the barrel heavier than I usually do and fired 100 rounds with no problem. Hopefully, it is fixed. Thanks for all of the help.

Gun Plumber
August 17, 1999, 01:36 PM
Take a look at the bottom barrel lugs. I have seen M1911's where the radius on the bottom lugs do not have the proper clearence for link-up, this will cause binding right before the gun goes into battery.

August 19, 1999, 11:56 PM
Had the same problem with a new 1911. Extractor was too tight, and breech face needed polishing. Take slide off and put a loaded round's case lip under extractor. Round should be able to "slump" a little, but the round should not fall out when you rotate slide 360 degrees. If too tight, take out extractor (no big deal) and bend it back a wee bit. Get a maintenance book--like the one from Wilson Combat--it'll help alot in doing all of the above. Good luck.