View Full Version : Parkerizing solution help...

December 23, 2004, 04:13 PM
I have the following items:
1 lbs. Manganese Dioxide powder
Phosphoric Acid(concrete cleaner)
Acetone for cleaning
Propane stove
Steel wool for solution
I have stripped the Brownells bake-on finish with aluminum aircraft stripper.I did'nt have access to a bead or sand blaster, so I used sandpaper to get off most of the old Park.What I need is the mixture amounts.How much Manganese to acid to how much water.I am going to use Pyrex or glass for heating in and steel wire to suspend parts in solution.Acetone for degreasing.Steel wool instead of iron fillings(can't get any).This is for a 1911.
Any suggesstions that can help using the items I have?


4V50 Gary
December 25, 2004, 12:26 AM
O.K., I promised you I'd dig out my notes. Guess what? Can't find them. There's too many bookcases in my house and only three bookcases are dedicated to one topic. That leaves me scrambling around and I couldn't dig out my notes from Lassen College. That'll take too much time and I'm trying to finish the chapter on Battery Wagner (see Bedtime Stories or Sharpshooter Tales at the blackpowder forum of http://www.thehighroad.org ). Instead, I found the book which I purchased used for $5 many years ago (shop second hand, it's cheaper! :p)

Be sure the finish is rough. You don't want a glossy finish to parkerize and it needs a rough finish. That's why they said blast it! O.K., rough sanding but be sure your work is consistent.

Here's the formulas (from pages 147-148).

From F. R. G. Richards, a British firm whose phosphatising was called by them as Fermangan is this solution:

Phosphoric acid D. 1.5 61 grs
Manganese dioxide 37 grs
Water (distilled) 1 U.S. quart

"The pieces are boiled for 1/2 to 1 1/2 hours, either making up the water evaporated, or evaporating it to 1/3 of its original volume. As the magganese dioxide does not dissolve but remains in suspension, the bath must be kept boiling briskly to secure a uniform coating. Further evaporation results in rougher coatings covered with fairly strongly adherent powdery manganese dioxide.

"The coating consists of mixed basic manganese and iron phosphates, is rougher and noticeably darker than the Coslett-proproduced and offers considerably greater resistence to rust."

Formula #2 Parkerising as described by Field & Bonney

Phosphoric acid 365 grains
Manganese dioxide 22 grains
Water (distilled) 1 quart

"The pieces are boiled in this for 2 to 4 hours, then rinsed first in cold, then in hot water, dried in sawdust and brushed to free them from adherent sawdust. They are then heated on a hot plate to 'hissing' temperature, at which water dropped onto it is immediately thrown off, and at this temperature dipped in linseed oil, drained and gently warmed until dry. This is simply the Coslett or Fermangan treatment.

"The above data are sufficient for the occasional phosphatising of smaller parts, for which finished appearance is of secondary importance, and wheer special measures to promote economy would be unprofitable on account of the very small quantities of ingredients used."

After treatment The finished parts are transferred without rinsing to a drying oven or hot sawdust, so as to dry as quickly as possible, then dipped in linseed or vaseline oil, which sensibly darkens the colour. Their appearance is improved by rubbing or brushing with a bristle brush and a mixture of 1 part solid paraffin and 2 parts turpentine, or one of 3 parts of minearl oil and 1 part turpentine, which also slightly increases their resistence to rust.

Note: we did it differently at Lassen but as I've said, I can't find my notes.

December 25, 2004, 11:33 PM
I wouldn't use steel wool personally. I would use bar stock that I dressed with a grinder and washed with acetone or laquer thinner. I use 8 ozs of Do Right's parking solution with 1 gallon of rain water, so I am not sure of the precise solution for you. As far a suspending the parts with wire, don't waste your time. I lay my parts in the tank and flip them over with a wooden spoon and I never have any problems with contact with the tank. I don't leave my parts in but for a few minutes and I keep my solution around 190 degrees. If I want it really black I use about 205 degrees. I rinse my parts in rain water to remove any of the whiting left from the solution and then use Ballistol to stop any further parking action and to remove the moisture. I then use outboard motor oil to rub in and seal the part and get the color I want. I wouldn't just sand the part. It needs to be evenly blasted to take the park with the best results. Ask around town and you should find a body shop or machine shop who can blast the pistol for around $30. If you want the pistol to look it's best, it isn't too much to pay.