View Full Version : Stovepiping on Sig p226

December 16, 2004, 08:21 PM
Hi All,
Have a nearly new Sig P226. It seems to consistently stovepipe the empty case on extraction (ie empty casing jammed vertically in the chamber). The gun has only had one box of ammo through it, UMC 180 gr Copper jacketed ammo. S&W .40 cal and the pistol has the ten round mags.

Any hints?


December 16, 2004, 08:57 PM
Most likely the extractor followed by the ejecter. Don't know how knowledgable you are but I would take out the extractor and take off any burrs and see that it operated smoothly-extractor or spring not binding in the slot.BTW your magazines should be numbered so if you have problems you can find if it's limited to one magazine.

December 16, 2004, 09:21 PM
Hi Mete,
Thanks very much for the advice!

Jim Watson
December 16, 2004, 11:51 PM
One box?
Try a different brand. Econo-ball like UMC is not real consistent.

December 20, 2004, 11:18 PM
Hey Guys,
greetings from bellaire texas.
I hate to hear about Sigs hangin up. i bought mine about 10 trs. ago to replace a s&w that sheared a casing and spooked me bigtime. I had no faith in after that and went to what I was told was a highly reliable P226.
After about 100 rounds at he the range today, my P226 trapped a shell in the extractor slot two different times. Is this normal? Am I wrong to expect my Sig to be reliable after so many rounds witout any cleaning?
today, while shooting, the slide also closed 3 times even though the clip was empty.
I would appreciate any advice as I would really like to be able to trust this gun.
It is also possible I am "under lubricating" this gun too.
Anyone out there got any advise?

December 22, 2004, 02:57 AM
Too little lube tends to be a problem on sigs. The sigs I have had needed quite a bit more lube than other guns. I had a sig 229 that would need reoiled every 50 or 60 rounds using common gun oil. CLP was the best oil I found for that gun and grease was way better.

Try grease on the frame rails as that is what fixed the problem for me. I don't have any more sigs but I still use the grease I bought for them.

Wilson's has a nice syringe tube of white grease that is really neat.

k in AR
December 23, 2004, 02:16 PM
just my experience with a Sig 40cal. First it was fairly ammo fussy. It liked having some power (no target stuff for sure). If the ammo was good, then it would lay all the brass in a pile about 6 foot to the right front.

Second (don't take this worng...) it would not put up with "limp wristing". It would stove pipe every time my wife would shoot it and she is a great shot with a 357 or 44 revolver. I messed around with it and if I loosened my grip and let the gun "walk" up at recoil, then it would also stove pipe with me as well.
Try what the others have said about ammo & the extractor, but if it does not help, look at your grip and the way you allow the gun to recoil. Sig's are generally a very good and forgiving autos, but they have their limits, esp with gun control.

4V50 Gary
December 23, 2004, 10:11 PM
Lube it.
Change ammo.
Ask someone to shoot it to ensure it's not limpwristing on your part that causes it.

Jamie Young
December 23, 2004, 10:35 PM
I agree with the "lube it" posts.

I saw a brand spankin NIB Beretta 92FS Inox jam every 2 rounds until somebody finally said, "Did you clean the gun and lube it?"

Somebody handed him a bottle of CLP and then the gun ran fine.

NIB doesn't mean it doesn't need to be lubed.

December 23, 2004, 11:28 PM
1 box of ammo? The gun still needs to be broken in. Ask again after 500-1000 rounds.

December 27, 2004, 10:13 PM
Break in on a Sig is 500 to 750 rounds. Lube the rails and disconnector pretty well for the first 250 rounds.

Lazy D
December 28, 2004, 09:17 PM
Hey Chris. Have you had any luck with a fix? Lots of advise on the lube. Just curious if that helped. Let us know.