View Full Version : 10/22 rifle accuracy?

October 28, 2004, 11:25 AM
I'm thinking about buying a Ruger 10/22 soon, what kind of accuracy can I expect from it out of the box?

I'm also thinking about getting a .22 scope for it though I've heard .22's aren't that accurate?

Also a friend of mine said that getting bolt action or semi wouldn't matter on a .22 because they aren't that accurate?

What kinda difference in range/MOA could I expect between cheap Rem .22 (like 550 rd box) vs. CCI Mini Mag?

I plan on using this mostly for target practice and some plinking but I might also get the chance to do some squirrel hunting.

I was looking into a Rem 700P instead of the .22 but I need a cheap rifle mostly for target shooting, though I think the 700P does come in .223 that's still more expensive than 9mm isn't?

Only reason I'm concerned about accuracy is, well it's more fun to shoot I'd think, to see how accurate you can be, but it still needs to be cheap to shoot.

Suggestions and personal opinions welcome I'm pretty new at all of this :)

October 28, 2004, 11:35 AM
My recently acquired 10-22 "WalMart Special" isn't my most accurate .22 rifle, but it's not bad.
It'll do an inch at 50 yards, with good ammo (CCI Minimags or Winny Dynapoints). I have a few other .22 sei-autos that will shoot a half-inch at fifty yards.
If you get into bolt-action or single-shot .22's, they can be unGodly accurate - even out to 100 yards. My single-shot BSA Mk.II International will put five shots into a half inch at 100 yards - but then it is a true target rifle.
My bolt-action Winchester 75T does nearly as well.

The died-in-the-wool 10-22 gurus can get that kind of performance too - after a thousand bucks worth of new parts. :rolleyes:

Don't underestimate a good .22LR rifle - even the old classic bargain twentytwos can shoot mighty nice! :cool:

October 28, 2004, 12:25 PM
My 10/22 carbine would do about 1"@50yds stock. After rebarreling (Green Mtn stainless, fluted bull barrel, tighter chamber), glass bedding, and a misc assortment of other accuracy and reliability modifications, mine will easily do .5"@50yds. It has also gone over 700rnds without a single malfunction.

It might do better than [email protected], that's what I can get out of it.

I spent $46 on the barrel (clearanced by GM because it was .910 instead of .920 OD).

Glass bedding was free because it was leftover material from another job and I did it myself.

Bolt chamfering, headspacing, firing pin staking, and jeweling cost me $50 at Connecticut Precision Chambering (http://www.ct-precision.com/page12.html)
The Volquartsen hammer and extractor cost me $50

The bolt buffer cost $6

I made a few other mods, but they were for my comfort, not accuracy or reliability. Those totaled less than $20.

I had the scope and rings already. I bought a weaver base for about $10.

I kept the factory stock, but modified it and painted it.

Edit to add: I made my own overtravel stop too.

Total cost including the rifle was just over $300. Had I paid full price for the barrel, the total cost would've been just over $400.

Here she is:


October 28, 2004, 12:41 PM
I'm also in the market for a couple of 10/22's I want some used ones even just receivers so I can build up a couple of nice nice plinkers.
I'm looking to cash or trade for a 10/22, check out my other post: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153935

October 28, 2004, 12:49 PM
I souped up scoped 10/22,changed everything except the barrel, replaced sear/disconnecter,hammer, spring, bolt buffer, trigger with over travel, extended clip release, hogue over molded stock, extractor claw, this was the important item. you can shoot more types of ammo changing the claw, the angle is much better. All I shoot out of ruger 22lr is Remington yellow jackets, Rugers love them, the barrel shot very well out of the box, bought a cheap catseye scope with see through mounts, beartooth 3 peace neoprene camo, covers the barrel, butt, scope, all I did for the barrel was hand lapped the barrel with flitz. I was getting about half inch at 50 yards, respectable for a 22lr semi;)
Aim small hit small. RAMbo.

October 30, 2004, 10:11 PM
Taking off the barrel stock ring or relieving material so it doesn't touch the barrel will yield better results. Also lightening trigger pull will help. Have some 10-22s with megabucks tied up in them that shoots bulk pack ammo under .50 at 50 yds.

Alfa One
October 31, 2004, 09:31 AM
If I may,

can anyone tell me how to get the trigger-action to go more smoother?

Anyone have a drawing of it?

October 31, 2004, 10:45 AM
If you have access to a Brownells catalog, or their website, they sell quite alot of stuff for the 10-22 for actions. They have titanium firing pins, drop in sears and triggers, etc. Alot of it is for fully tricked out match shooters, and you could end up spending lots more than the gun cost. I could recommend other brands of 22's, one of which I own. It is a superb premium gun with better quality and higher price than the Ruger, but it lacks the excellent magazine system that Ruger has. You will appreciate that alot in the long run. Now you can even get big 'nanner clips for it again. I had a stock blued gun back in the 80's that I tricked out with the cool paramil. looking stuff like folding stocks and flash hiders, etc. They didn't have much to help the basic accuracy back then, though. I had mounted a monster 3X9 overkill scope on it and enjoyed engaging small targets on fence posts out around 75 yds. Good enough for chipmunks at 50+. I read somewhere that many people experienced better accuracy with the blued barrels(stock) than the stainless, due to the way they are made apparently. But that is just anectdotal in my case. I think they did make the two at different places. Try the stock gun before buying a 200$ heavy barrel, but I agree a trigger job will probably help alot more. There used to be a guy called Chief AJ that did action jobs on the 10-22 and he set shooting records with the moded guns. Don't know if he is still around-guess it is time to do a Google on him. I had experienced feeding problems from the stock mag. with the truncated cone(looks like a crayola crayon tip) type bullet nose. Don't buy that in bulk till you try some in your gun.

October 31, 2004, 11:35 AM
can anyone tell me how to get the trigger-action to go more smoother?
Volquartsen hammer is the cheapest and easiest. You'll get a bit of creep, but it'll be smooth and light.

Edit to change trigger to hammer since hammer is what I meant. Thanks, MPH.


October 31, 2004, 12:54 PM
The couple of 10-22's we have around here have always out shot my old Ruger 77-22, and by a good bit. At 25 yards, a 10 round group from the 10-22's can be covered with a dime. The same 10 shots with the 77-22 were always bigger than a quarter. It was a pretty little rifle, just never shot very well.

October 31, 2004, 04:08 PM
I think the limiting factor on the 10/22 is the factory trigger. The trigger on my 10/22 Carbine is atrocious. It makes me want to cry just thinking about it. Not a whole lot of creep or overtravel, but it is heavy, and I do mean heavy. I put a Tasco World Class 3-9 on mine. With the rifle unloaded, I can cock it, take it off 'safe,' and proceed to hold it and even bounce it on one finger with the entire weight of the rifle and scope supported only by the trigger.

I don't think the advantage of the 10/22 is its capabilities out-of-the-box. The rifle is perfectly capable for just about anything most of us will use it for as it comes, but the primary advantage I think is that numerous accessories are available to accurize and make it into just about anything you want.

I paid about $150 for my 10/22 Carbine--the wood stock, blued steel model. Very basic but I only wanted a plinker and short range small game/rodent buster and for this purpose it works very well. Among a host of other items on my "To Do" list is the Power Custom trigger components for it. I hear very good things about it. I seriously suggest you do the same. A better trigger will exponentally increase the capabilities of the rifle.

November 1, 2004, 08:37 AM
I believe that mtnbkr means to change out the hammer instead of the trigger with a Volquartsen as the new hammers will take pull below 1 1/2 lbs. These run around $32 and worth every bit of it.

November 1, 2004, 09:37 AM
MPH, you're right. Thanks for the "heads up".


November 1, 2004, 01:38 PM
The trick is change the hammer but not the spring,leave the factory spring in, polish the sear and disconnecter. Good to go, I get close to three pound trigger for hunting purposes. Aim small hit small. RAMbo.

If you want plenty of good info on the 10/22 the guys at www.rimfirecentral.com are the most knowledgeable cats out there, many good guys willing to save you time and money.

November 5, 2004, 08:01 PM
Like with most out of the box, mass produced rifles, the accuracy can vary widely. I have had a few that I just could not shoot accurately, and some others that were 'tack drivers'. You pay your money, and you take your chances.