View Full Version : LW Cmdr FTF's

May 20, 2004, 09:38 AM
Got a used LW Cmdr.(pre series 80) which looked to be in nice shape. However, on visits to the range I get plenty of failures to fully chamber rounds. A round will go partially into the chamber, but the slide won't close. Also, fired cases have about a 1/8" notch "cut" into the face of the rim I think on the ejector side. Mags tried included the full spectrum of GI, CMC, Wilson & Colt. The rounds I was shooting were my reloads using 230 gr. FMJ's with oal of 1.255 & Win white box factory ball- none of my other 1911's have a problem with either round. I replaced the recoil spring with a Wilson 20# & tried a Brown extractor in place of the Colt. What else to do? :confused:

May 20, 2004, 12:44 PM
there might be a tuning issue with your extractor. some adjustment might help. If its tuned/bent to tight, it may be slowing the next chambered round too much for it to feed all the way - might be the reason for that notch too. I'm no expert, but have seen similar posts before.

May 21, 2004, 12:07 AM
Sounds like the round isn't feeding onto the breechface and the extractor is stabbing it into the chamber...or close to the chamber anyway.

This next step can be enlightening, just remember to use dummy rds if you have some, if not be EXTREMELY CAREFUL AND DO NOT TOUCH THE TRIGGER...If you're at all uncomfortable with any of this DON'T TRY IT...

You might try taking the slide off and removing the recoil spring, then reassemble and watch carefully as you gently pull the slide back over a loaded magazine to see what's happening. Has the extractor been adjusted?
If not and you want to try it your self, here's a link that may be of some use...



Joe Gulish
May 22, 2004, 06:14 PM
Also look at the corner of the feed ramp and the chamber. It should have a
slight break or radius there. Try and scrap it with a pocket knife and then
sand with some 600 wet and dry sand paper. Don't over do it just a small

Also look at the face of the slide. If it is rough it can cause the round to hang up. A popcicle stick with the 600 wet and dry wrapped around it can be used to clean up the breach face. Just need to clean up the face not polish it.

If you want to try the the slide with out the recoil spring in it you can remove the firing pin. That will take care of any AD's.

To check the tension on the extractor take the slide off and slip a round under the extractor. Then hold the slide level and shake it some the round should not fall out. Also try the colt extractor again. I have a pre 80 GM that has the original extractor in it.

May 27, 2004, 06:06 AM
Howdy WB,

You STILL havin' trouble with that little Colt?

Let's find out where the problem is first...

On jammed rounds...Have you noticed a crescent-shaped mark just below the case mouth?

When the slide hangs up...Can you push on it and put the pistol into battery...or do you have to eject it and start over?

Remove the extractor and the recoil spring plug. If you have the stub guide rod, leave the spring in the tunnel. Load 3 rounds in a magazine, lock it in
the magwell, and pull the slide back. Put two fingers on the back of the slide and push briskly. If the round chambers, top off the mag and repeat. If
the top round chambers, the extractor isn't the problem.

If the crescent-shaped mark is on the side of the case...or if you have to eject the round and start over, you've got excessive stem bind...aka 3-Pount Jam. If so, proceed to:

Check to see if the barrel is riding the link at the front of the bottom lug's
radius. Position the link's hole at the centerline of the radius. If the slidestop
pin doesn't lightly touch the lug at that point...it's riding it. That can cause a stem bind.

Check the top of the barrel throat to see if it's got a sharp corner.
If it, scrape it with the tip of a good pocketknife to break that corner, and polish it with 600-grit paper on your fingertip. Easy...Just lightly break the corner.

Lay the barrel in the frame with the slidestop pin through the link. Push the
barrel down and back. The BOTTOM of the throat should be slightly forward of the top of the feed ramp. If it's flush, or overhangs into the magwell...even a tiny bit...it will cause a stoppage. The barrel should be
forward of the top of the ramp by a 32nd of an inch. It can be a little more,
but not less.

Standin' by...


May 27, 2004, 02:17 PM
Tuner, no cresent shaped mark. When stoppages occur, the round has to be cleared. The top of the barrel's edge did seem to be sharp, so I did what you said to it. Also changed to a Wilson extractor that had worked extremely well in a Kimber; and I put the original recoil spring back in (had replaced it with a Wilson 20# that seemed to heavy for the loads I use- 5 grns Bullseye with 230 FMJ). In a very limited test today- one 7 rd. mag full- no stoppages! Now I have to go to the bench & load a bunch for a real test! Also forgot I reduced the oal from 1.265 to 1.255, and it seemed to like the shorter rounds better. My fullsized Kimber & Argentine Sistema don't care about the different lengths. In any case, thanks for all of your advice & the benefit of your vast knowledge. :) WB