View Full Version : Ruger 10/22 disassembly

February 11, 2000, 06:19 PM
On Wedensday, I picked up my new Volquartsen Custom 10/22 from the gun shop. When I got home today, I tried to dissasemble it to make sure it was properly lubricated in preparation for goin the range tomorrow.

This is the first 10/22 I've owned, so I followed the instructions to disassemble it. The book said for routine maintanance you don't have to remove the bolt, but that seemed stupid to me (I don't think a rifle can be properly cleaned and lubed without removing the bolt), so I followed the instructions to remove the bolt. Anyway, the instructions said toi remove the bolt stop pin and while holding the reciever/barrel upside down, pull back the bolt handle all the way with the left hand and lift the bolt up to remove the bolt handle. The problem is that there is a small rail on the indside of the reciever, and I found it impossible to lift the bolt up.

Does anyone know how to remove a 10/22 bolt?

Mouse Gun
February 11, 2000, 07:56 PM

Sounds like you're doing it right, if I recall correctly, with the bolt stop pin removed at the rear of the receiver you should be able to pull the bolt handle and bolt back (all the way to the rear) far enough for the bolt to just slide past the small rail. This is per my Ruger but I'm assuming your rifles receiver is made to same dimension. You may have to lift the tail of the bolt out first if tolerances are tight. Sorry, I don't have any first hand knowledge of the Volquartsen rifle. Good Luck

Mouse Gun

February 11, 2000, 09:55 PM
The reciever is a regular ruger 10/22, noly the barrel and trigger group are made by Volquartsen, so mine should be the same as yours.

I guess I'll just have to try again.

Mal H
February 11, 2000, 10:20 PM
This topic came up a while back. Some said getting the bolt out was easy, but, like you, I say it's not. I have found that if you use a small strong magnet to lift out the bolt, it's easy.

Harley Nolden
February 11, 2000, 11:29 PM

I have taken the liberty of sending you by separate email, the disassem insturctions with photos. If you are using Ruger's manual, I find them sometimes hard to syphere. These are a little easier to read.

Institute of Firearms Research


[This message has been edited by Harley Nolden (edited February 11, 2000).]

February 12, 2000, 01:40 AM
Ok. I got the bolt out, but now I have no Idea how to properly put it back together. The instructions say to compress the spring with one hand and put the bolt on the bolt handle with the other. That makes no sense because if the hand compressing the spring gets in the way of putting the bolt back in.

Is this rifle designed to be very non-user freindly or are the ruger instructions just really crappy?

February 12, 2000, 08:06 AM
Andrew, May I suggest that you get a can of Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and leave your fine rifle alone. I use this product to clean my Volquartsen 10-22 every few thousand rounds and it gets all of the powder residue etc. out. One thing to remember, it also strips away all lubrication. Re lube with a small amount of a dry film lubricant ant you will be good to go again. Every 5 or so thousand rounds you will want to take it all the way down and you will find that after you have done it more than a few times it will become a simple chore.
Have fun, Hank

February 12, 2000, 01:23 PM
Finally got the damn thing back together at 3:00 in the morning. The way the instructions say to do it didn't work too well (compressing the spring with a screwdrever). What I did was compress the spring with my fingers BEFORE putting the bolt handle/spring assembly back into the receiver, and making sure the handle is pushed back all the way once the assembly is seated in the receiver. Getting the bolt seated is another story and quite annoying.

HankL: I have a can of the stuff coming this week, I was planning on getting it to use for 1st time cleaning to remove whatever lube was used (since it's not good to mix lubes), but after seeing how annoying this was, I'll probably just use the gun scrubber for regular cleaning. I'm planning on using Break-Free CLP, but that should work the same as dry film if I use the tube applicator.

I gather this rifle does not get that dirty so it is possible to keep it running without removing the bolt every time. I'm used to AR-15s so bear with me. :)

BTW: What configuration is your Volquartsen 10/22 in, what kind of accuracy do you get and what kind of ammo does your rifle like best?

Mine is has a two tone barrel (stainless with blackened flutes) and a Hogue Overmolded stock. It's mounted with a silver Leupold Vari-XII 4-12x40 w/AO. When my order from Brownell's comes, I'm putting a Harris bipod on it.

I haven't shot it yet, but I'm taking it to the range either tomorrow if it doesn't rain or next weekend. I bought a box of Eley Match Xtra black box and a box of Federal Gold Medal Match. I hope it likes the Federal better because they have bricks of Federal Gold Medal Target at my local gun shop for $30.

February 12, 2000, 01:26 PM
BTW Hank, How do you clean your barrel without removing the bolt? I assume you just leave the trigger assy. in and lock back the bolt. I'm going to be using a bore snake to clean the barrel because using rods voids the warantee but Scott Volquartsen said that bore snakes are fine.

February 12, 2000, 02:20 PM
Andrew, I have the Volquartsen Sniper barrel, their thumbhole stock and trigger/hammer parts. The barrel is .925 in diam. and has the built in muzzle brake. I have a Leuopold Vari X III 3.5 x 10 AO scope mounted on a Weaver rail and rings. The scope rail that came with the gun gave out pretty quickly.
For my purposes the barrel doen't require cleaning that often. When I do clean it I do so carefully from the muzzle with the bolt locked back. I use a coated rod. I have not done any formal target shooting with it but it will hold 1/4 min. turtle head at 100 yds if you do your part using CCI Stingers. The Federal Match should serve you well but 22s can be pretty particular about what they like.
Have fun

February 12, 2000, 03:52 PM
Never heard of the sniper barrel. What its that, black and unfluted? Mine is .925" and has the built in 32 hole muzzle brake too (looks good but is probably pointless). 1/4 minute is really good. Volquartsen guarantees 3/8" at 50yds. I think most custom makers purposely underestimate the accuracy of their guns.

I guess it's not true that you're not supposed to use stingers in Volquartsen barrels. I heard the cases are too long for the chamber, but you don't seem to be having any problems.

Mine came with a Volquartsen barrel mounted cantilever weaver type mount (looks kind of funny because there is a gap between the reciever and mount, but it seems very strong) and I use Millet angle lock rings.

By the one that came with yours I assume you mean that crappy dovetail mount that came in a manila envelope stapled to the instruction booklet.

Mal H
February 12, 2000, 04:02 PM
A short note on muzzle brakes on .22 barrels. At first thought, most of us wonder who the heck needs one. If you can't handle the massive recoil of the .22 then you should have stuck with BB guns. The main reason for them, as I understand it, is to vent the gases before they reach the muzzle so that the gases won't give any off axis instability to the bullet as it leaves the muzzle. That may reduce your groups an extra .1", and for target masters .1" is a lot.

February 12, 2000, 07:45 PM
I agree with Mal H. Andrew, Sniper was how the barrel was marked and it is the black barrel without fluting. I put it together 5 or six years ago and I think that is a dangerous thing for me to do that there was an option for match or standard chamber. It works great with Eley Match Xtra "Black Box" But has a much flatter trajectory with the stingers for longer range chores. Like I said, I plink with mine. Although my boy's room is not a great place to do photography I have included a link to a photo of my rig.


The turtle stickers on the stock don't mean a thing!


I forgot to say that I hope that you get to go to the range tommorow!

[This message has been edited by HankL (edited February 12, 2000).]