View Full Version : Gun Wax

May 15, 2002, 10:47 AM
Looking at the Flitz Polish web site I saw a gun wax listed for use on wood and metal.
Is there any advantage to doing this? Would any quality Carnuba car wax work the same?
Howcome I ask so may questions? :rolleyes:

May 15, 2002, 12:46 PM
I've heard a lot of people say they prefer the wax approach to exterior care. Flitz Wax and Renaissance Wax are two of those preferred, both are available from Brownells and other sources.

Car wax can be problematic, as most of it contains abrasives designed to "restore" a car's finish. I used one once on a blued gun. Thank goodness I was using a white handkerchief, cause I noticed it turning blue and that's the last time I used car wax on a gun except for the wood.

Good luck and regards.

May 15, 2002, 12:55 PM
I've used Birchwood Casey's gun stock wax with very good results. You can get a mirror finish on a stock that is very easy to touch up if you get a slight scratch, and it doesn't yellow with age.
However it takes many coats to do it. I have one beautiful smoke pole that took about 100 coats, but it was worth it.:)

May 15, 2002, 01:34 PM
I just got done with the stock, ten coats of Tung oil and it's pretty shiny now. Just wondering how much more the wax would help.

May 15, 2002, 01:34 PM
There are car waxes and floor waxes that contain NO abrasive. Just carnuba and a thinner. You have to look for em.

If mostly carnuba and little thinner, will be a bear to buff out by hand.


May 15, 2002, 08:40 PM
I tried some Meguiar's "Gold Class" car wax on it this evening. Applied it in a couple of 'hidden' areas first and it didn't seem to do any harm so I went ahead and did the whole gun. Looks good.

May 16, 2002, 05:42 AM
the Brownells catalog. They carry at least one good wax purposely made for stocks. I forget the name, but it comes in a shoe-polish tin and works great.

Mike Irwin
May 16, 2002, 10:42 AM
Johnson's Paste Wax, the stuff in the yellow and black can.

I've been using it on my guns for years, with very good results.

May 16, 2002, 07:47 PM
Do you use the Johnson's paste wax on both the steel and the stock?

What is the reason for waxing the steel any way?


Mike Irwin
May 17, 2002, 12:07 PM

On my handguns I wax any exposed steel I can get to, for the same reason that I wax my car, it protects the finish. The grips on most of my handguns are rubber of one sort or another, so no waxing there.

I'll wax the stocks on my rifles about once a year if I remember.

May 18, 2002, 05:00 PM
Use either furniture paste wax, good for tools, anything metal. Or for a less durable finish use beeswax diluted into mineral spirits. It works for anything from wooden coutertops to the slide of a 1911. Beeswax is better for kitchen wood, everything else gets regular furniture paste wax.

May 18, 2002, 05:31 PM
The best I have ever found for wood is Minwax Finishing Wax.
I used to use Johnsons, but this stuff blows that away. I get mine at the local ACE Hardware. About 7 bucks for a lifetime supply.

May 18, 2002, 06:58 PM
Is it safe to use the Johnson's paste or Minwax on Blued steel and also Laminated wood stocks?

What is actually better Flitz or the furniture paste wax for both looks and protection?

May 19, 2002, 05:16 PM

May 20, 2002, 01:02 AM
I sometimes use Klasse car wax on the metal surfaces of my guns - haven't tried it on wood. It works great as a rust preventative and once applied you can't see it at all. The wax works better than most liquid protectants because it doesn't evaporate and doesn't get on your clothes.

Mike Irwin
May 21, 2002, 10:20 AM

Sorry, I didn't see your question about Johnson's.

YES, it is perfectly safe to use on blued steel.

That's what I'm talking about. I've been using JPW on my blued steel firearms for years with no adverse affects at all.

I wouldn't see why it couldn't be used on laminated stocks, but I'm not sure it would be necessary. Most of the laminated stocks I've seen have been HEAVILY sealed with poly or epoxy.

May 21, 2002, 04:03 PM
Thanks for getting back to me.
Do you usually apply it with a damp or dry rag, I believe it says to use either?
Then do you let it dry to a haze before wiping it off?


Mike Irwin
May 21, 2002, 07:53 PM

A soft dry rag, or if it seems to be really stiff, I dampen the rag with some rubbing alcohol.

Let dry, buff, and repeat.

May 21, 2002, 09:02 PM
Thanks Mike