View Full Version : Best exterior care for blued guns

February 26, 2002, 12:55 PM
So, what'll it be? Hoppes #9? Militec? Ballistol? Breakfree CLP? FP-10? KleenBore? RemOil? Mobil 1?...

What do you use to give your blued guns a shiny protective coating? I've heard that some of the above may actually damage the finish. Maybe that's what happened to me. KleenBore told me that their Formula 3 solution is "great" for this purpose. So I used it on my shiny new CZ-75. It now has a matte look---not ugly, mind you; just not what it looked like when I bought it. Problem is, I don't know if this is helping or hurting it.

Any tips?

February 26, 2002, 11:03 PM
If its something I plan on handling a lot, I just spray Rem Oil on it and wipe it down. It may not be the best rust preventative, but it will certainly keep corrosion at bay until I handle it again and re-oil it. Plus it is cheap and easy to apply. If the gun is destined to sit unused in the safe for a while, I go for CLP.


February 26, 2002, 11:27 PM
I use Balistol spray on the exterior of all my guns. It's a good protective agent.

February 28, 2002, 05:28 PM
Try Flitz metal polish. It is a non abrasive type that cleans and protects quite well. It will NOT harm the bluing of the firearm at all. I have used it on a regular basis when I have discovered corrosion setting in after removing the grips from my various blued revolvers. It removes and cleans off the corrosion/ light rust with only some little elbow grease. The proof is the brown on the rag. :eek: It really works.


February 28, 2002, 09:18 PM
To touch on the last post, I use Flitz metal polish, but as a "top coat" I use their Rifle wax. Just like buffing out a car, and if you get fingerprints on the weapon they just buff right out.

March 2, 2002, 05:20 PM
Breakfree CLP would be best, but it tends to be a little too messy. Oil is traditional, but not even the second best choice now. Apparently, oil tends to trap water underneath in the bottom of the micropores in the steel. The bottoms and the tops of these little micropores then act as small batteries which cretate a (very) micro current flow and result in rust.

Most custom knife makers use a dry cloth from Sentry Solutions www.sentrysolutions.com. Unless you plan on submerging your firearms in saltwater, you won't need the heavy-duty strength the SEALs use. I've used one cloth for years on knives and firearms in a pretty humid climate and have had no problems at all with rust.

You wouldn't want to cut food with something you've wiped down with the cloth, though. Steel and your fingers do retain a distinctive odor.


March 2, 2002, 11:41 PM
Oil traps moisture underneath.
RIG displaces moisture and protects the metal.

I use a little dab of RIG rubbed into the wool of a small piece of sheepskin. Wipe gun down and it is protected. Ultra thin coat will do and not be messy.

Have kept blued guns in good shape in tropics, salt marshes etc. with RIG for over half a century.


March 3, 2002, 12:47 AM
Balistol for guns I use a lot. It has been around for 100 years and was originally developed for the German military. The key ingredient in the stuff is medical grade paraffin.

Long term protection for guns I won't use for a few years get a good application of RIG and stored in a corrosion inhibitor bag along with dessicant.

March 15, 2002, 09:36 PM
I'll ask, what is RIG?

I like the idea of the Flitz Rifle Wax, I'll have to look for some of that stuff.

March 17, 2002, 02:59 PM
Different from their wax, Flitz polish has removed the blue from a Marlin Camp Carbine I used it on (internal part--doesn't show). It also is not a good rust preventative. The wax may be different.

The sentry Tuff-cloth, recharged periodically with Tuff-glide liquid, leaves the best protection and a dry, won't rub off finich.


March 20, 2002, 09:48 PM
I'll ask, what is RIG?
I'd like to know too. Can someone enlighten me?

I also shot some lead through a blued revolver and can see some deposited on the front of the cylinder. What would take this off?

March 20, 2002, 10:23 PM
RIG: Rust Inhibiting Grease. Comes in a yellow tube, works great. http://www.silencio.com/

If I'm not going to be using a gun for a while, I'll usually coat it with Sheath from Birchwood Casey. It seeps into the tight spaces quicker

For the lead deposits on the front of the cylinder, I use a brass brush and Hoppe's Semi-Auto solvent.

March 21, 2002, 01:44 AM
I use B C Sheath . It costs but in a high humidity salty environment, it's worth it.

March 21, 2002, 03:47 PM
Renaissance wax. Created by the British Museum to protect their metal, paper, leather and wood collection. It protects against rust, sheds dust and fingerprints, and won't transfer to holster or clothes. www.woodworker.com

March 21, 2002, 04:41 PM
I recommend Eezox on all finishes and especially the blued finish since it will not even fingerprint when applied correctly.