Cleaning Jags

4T4MAG · February 10, 2012, 10:47 AM

I have been using brass jags for many years. I am looking at polymer, nickel plated and aluminum jags for copper solvent ammonia based cleaners such as wipe out patch out and foaming solution. The brass jags will give a false positive indication on copper fouling, BUT, are the polymer and aluminum jags too hard or soft that they would harm the bore or too soft and pick up debris and act like sand paper? Will the aluminum mar? Also, clean from the muzzle or the breach? I used a coated Dewey rod and most all of my rifles are stainless.

jaguarxk120 · February 10, 2012, 11:10 AM

I don't think it matters what material is used for a jag as long as you keep it clean. I generally do not drag my tools in the dirt, but I always wipe the cleaning rod and jag before they go into the barrel from the breach end.

Usually I start with a solvent cleaner (Ed's Red) and abrass brush to remove any carbon/powder deposits. Then with a nylon brush to work in the copper remover. Sometimes I'll use a headless machine screw wrapped with a cotton batting to make a mop, that will carry solvent/bore cleaner into the bore. I'm very generous with the cleaners in the bore as a new patch will carry them out with one pass.
Last pass is with a oiled patch.

Eazmo · February 10, 2012, 02:27 PM

I am using just the old outters plastic jags on my stainless Dewey rod for copper removal.
they actually work quite well. i not worried about them being to soft to pick up debris as the patches i use completely cover the jag.

Bore tech does offer a complete line of jags that will not give a false positive

Dfariswheel · February 10, 2012, 07:32 PM

Plastic tips do have a problem with breaking off the rod and leaving the threaded shank stuck in the rod.

Nickel plated won't stand up to aggressive solvents and the plating will be stripped fairly soon.

Aluminum works okay, but I have seen a few of them broken off in the rod also.

Brass is best, and if you wipe it off before applying solvent to a patch, it won't have time to be attacked by a solvent and give a false indication of fouling.
I insert the rod and patch into the chamber, then use a plastic transfer pipette to apply a shot of solvent. Then the patch goes straight down the bore and out the end.
Buy pipettes made by Accu-Bore from Brownell's.

Whenever at all possible, clean from the chamber end, and don't "pump" patches up and down the bore.
You should put patches down the bore and out the muzzle in one easy, smooth pass.
Pumping a patch up and down the bore does nothing.

The Bore Tech tips may be the way to go.

frumious · February 16, 2012, 05:46 PM

I second the Bore Tech Proof-Positive jags. If I use a regular brass jag with Bore Tech Eliminator copper solvent, the patch comes out blue even if I run it through quickly. That BTE is aggressive. I have a BTE PP jag in .30 and .45.

-cls

tobnpr · February 17, 2012, 08:24 AM

I believe your concerns as posted are correct.

A little over a year ago, I buy two nice Dewey ball-bearing nylon coated rods. Supposed to be the shiznit at the time...
Now, OOOhhh....no plastic, it picks up and holds abrasive debris...

Reminds me of Saccharin...

I'm not as concerned about a cleaning rod, because my cleaning rods don't contact the bore, and if they do, it's incidental. A jag, OTOH, when pulled "naked" back through the bore, is definitely going to glide along the lands.

I'd stick with brass.

Inspector3711 · February 17, 2012, 12:08 PM

I bought a set of Tipton nickel plated jags a couple of years ago. Love em'.

February 10, 2012, 10:47 AM	#1
4T4MAG Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2009 Posts: 162	Cleaning Jags I have been using brass jags for many years. I am looking at polymer, nickel plated and aluminum jags for copper solvent ammonia based cleaners such as wipe out patch out and foaming solution. The brass jags will give a false positive indication on copper fouling, BUT, are the polymer and aluminum jags too hard or soft that they would harm the bore or too soft and pick up debris and act like sand paper? Will the aluminum mar? Also, clean from the muzzle or the breach? I used a coated Dewey rod and most all of my rifles are stainless.

February 10, 2012, 02:27 PM	#3
Eazmo Senior Member Join Date: April 15, 2011 Location: Arizona Posts: 164	I am using just the old outters plastic jags on my stainless Dewey rod for copper removal. they actually work quite well. i not worried about them being to soft to pick up debris as the patches i use completely cover the jag. Bore tech does offer a complete line of jags that will not give a false positive __________________ I'm just an average man I drive a average van My dog ain't got no pedigree!

February 17, 2012, 12:08 PM	#7
Inspector3711 Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2008 Location: Puget Sound Washington Posts: 1,553	I bought a set of Tipton nickel plated jags a couple of years ago. Love em'. __________________ "If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." The Dalai Llama (5/15/01, The Seattle Times) "That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there." George Orwell

February 10, 2012, 11:10 AM	#2
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,620	I don't think it matters what material is used for a jag as long as you keep it clean. I generally do not drag my tools in the dirt, but I always wipe the cleaning rod and jag before they go into the barrel from the breach end. Usually I start with a solvent cleaner (Ed's Red) and abrass brush to remove any carbon/powder deposits. Then with a nylon brush to work in the copper remover. Sometimes I'll use a headless machine screw wrapped with a cotton batting to make a mop, that will carry solvent/bore cleaner into the bore. I'm very generous with the cleaners in the bore as a new patch will carry them out with one pass. Last pass is with a oiled patch.

February 10, 2012, 07:32 PM	#4
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Plastic tips do have a problem with breaking off the rod and leaving the threaded shank stuck in the rod. Nickel plated won't stand up to aggressive solvents and the plating will be stripped fairly soon. Aluminum works okay, but I have seen a few of them broken off in the rod also. Brass is best, and if you wipe it off before applying solvent to a patch, it won't have time to be attacked by a solvent and give a false indication of fouling. I insert the rod and patch into the chamber, then use a plastic transfer pipette to apply a shot of solvent. Then the patch goes straight down the bore and out the end. Buy pipettes made by Accu-Bore from Brownell's. Whenever at all possible, clean from the chamber end, and don't "pump" patches up and down the bore. You should put patches down the bore and out the muzzle in one easy, smooth pass. Pumping a patch up and down the bore does nothing. The Bore Tech tips may be the way to go.

February 16, 2012, 05:46 PM	#5
frumious Senior Member Join Date: May 13, 2009 Location: Carrollton TX Posts: 521	I second the Bore Tech Proof-Positive jags. If I use a regular brass jag with Bore Tech Eliminator copper solvent, the patch comes out blue even if I run it through quickly. That BTE is aggressive. I have a BTE PP jag in .30 and .45. -cls

February 17, 2012, 08:24 AM	#6
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	I believe your concerns as posted are correct. A little over a year ago, I buy two nice Dewey ball-bearing nylon coated rods. Supposed to be the shiznit at the time... Now, OOOhhh....no plastic, it picks up and holds abrasive debris... Reminds me of Saccharin... I'm not as concerned about a cleaning rod, because my cleaning rods don't contact the bore, and if they do, it's incidental. A jag, OTOH, when pulled "naked" back through the bore, is definitely going to glide along the lands. I'd stick with brass.