Pillar & Glass Bedding + Free Floating a Barrel

Hoskins · August 2, 2010, 05:31 PM

Ok gentlemen, I'm going to attempt to undergo some upgrades on my Winchester MOD 70 Ranger 7mm Rem Mag. Doing some research, I want to sand down the interior of the stock so that I can get the barrel to free float. I'm also thinking that glass bedding & pillar bedding will also greatly increase accuracy.

I have NEVER attempted any of the above procedures. Are the procedures cabable of being done by someone with 0 expirence as long as I take my time & am being careful?

Also, is doing all three an overkill? It seems that by doing one that it will improve accuracy, however, by doing all 3 it will get the most out of the rifle. What is you alls thoughts & advice for a novice/rookie!?

oneoldsap · August 2, 2010, 07:20 PM

If you forget about the pillars , you can do the job yourself ! I doubt that a good pillar bedding job can be done by a novice , but hey its your gun ! If you buy a bedding kit from Brownell's ( I like the Acra Glass Gel ) it comes with instructions that will take you through the process step by step . Their web sight has a wealth of info also .

hooligan1 · August 2, 2010, 08:33 PM

Floating is fairly simple, only if you snatch an entire day from the family business.. Midway USA sells just about everything you'll need, including those pillars. Oneoldsap is definetly right about those pillars, as special tools and instruction are needed for that job. The floating you can definetly do yourself, as I have done it quite a few times. The whole idea is to remove anything touching the barrel from recoil lug to the end of the stock of course, There are basic instructions for this also if you look for them.(look up the process on midwayusa.com and others)

1. I like to set down in a chair, and put my rifle with the butt between my feet muzzle pointed to the sky, I take a piece of notebook paper and try to slide it under my barrel toward the action. taking a mental note where it gets hung up, or if it even can slide down.
2. I then remove barrel and visually inspect the stock for black or dark-spots, as this is where the barrel has vibrated and left distinguished marks up and down the inside of the stock 's barrel-channel. (for lack of a better name) If its too faint to distinguish then move on to step 3,.however if the channel is marked up, those are the places to start.
3. Carefully take that barrel-channel reamer and make long strokes from one end of the channel to the foreend (careful not to chip the foregrip) Remove excess material evenly for five or so strokes and reinstall barrel, and paper test it. As you repeat this series of actions you'll note the paper will start slipping down under the barrel easier, (On my rifles they can usually permit two or three thicknesses of notebook paper to easily slide to and fro). When you get to where your happy with the amount of material that you have removed then let's go to 4.
4.Now we'll start with a semi-rough grit of sandpaper,somewhere around 100 should be rough enough, completely sand channel, while carefull not to sand anywhere else on that stock, change your grades of sandpaper until it's smooth of all the reamer marks. When your also happy about the smoothness of the channel move to finish.
5. There are so many different products to use to seal this channel, and let me tell you this before you even start. Finish the channel carefully so that you only have to do it once!!!!!! Many coats of oil finish rubbed in works probably the best of all, and it's not too messy.. after the stock cures for the instructed time. replace barrel and torque to specs. Paper test. if it passes then wer'e off to the range, however sometimes the oil-finish will bring grain up and you have to lightly sand it once more.
6.This can be done by you if your fairly handy and can for a day be surgical and steady as to not bugger up any of the outside finish. And by all means if you don't think you can handle it the Smith will welcome it, along with those pillars.

Synthetic stocks are a little less fussy as there is no need to refinish the channel just material removal, replace barrel and paper test and repeat until your happy

Thanks for coming!

HiBC · August 3, 2010, 01:53 AM

All of us that have done it a few times know it can be done.Still,I would not wish the first time experience on anyone.It can be stressful.You might want to do it in stages.Is there a steel ferrule around the rear tang screw? If there is,good.As it is all in there,lined up right now,making a small job of just relieving a little around the tang,and under it,to make just a pad the size of a dime or so to locate just the tang,height and position,can be good,
Then I might come up with a, reference area up in the front reciever area,

Maybe the recoil lug area.Heck I might do both the tang and recoil lug with steel bed.I might relieve 1/16th or so.Then,I might do the same on the bottom metal.Just pads under the screws,and locating the functional datums.
JUst bring the screws to light snug,in position,held in place,but no spring on the action.Maybe .010 clearance on the mag box to reciever fit.Tape clearance is enough.
How thick do you want your glassbed?I make a little scribing gage,Make it so it wont scratch your metal,but you drag it around the reciever ,scribing a clean,uniform line.It might be .030.I suppose a 1/16 transfer punch might work.
Now I get out my carving chisels,the little palm set,I use a small,sharp gouge,and like a one tooth beaver I plunge a vertical cut just up to,but not breaking the line.Do not scoop or pry,you'll split good wood.Make each nibble a careful cut.This is roughing.Later,use a flat chisel,sanding stick,fingernail emery board,whatever,.This is the cosmetic uniform line,it might only go 3/16 deep.Now you can go back in and finish clearing the wood on down to the receiver floor.You see,as you have the tang pad and the lug pad,etc,you are relieving everything else.
While liquid Accraglass might be a touch superior,to seal and fit everything that is clearanced,I'd use gel for a first timer,It is awful to mix and pour glass only to see it start running out,leaving voids.
Then I would clean and trim a while,and do the bottom metal.At this point,the receiver and bottom metal are done,and the barrel is as centered as it ever was.

Myself,I think a pretty generous relief in the bbl channel is in order.If the forend has enough wood,3/32 is not too much.carefully gage scribe a line offset from the bbl,and carve it out.watch the line,clean with flat chisel,and I run larger sharp carving gouges down the channel,too.Sharp,you slice,not chip,split,Clean it up with round dowels with self adlesive orbitaql sander pads wrapped round assorted size dowels.

I use vinyl tape ,smoothly applied to the bbl,to make a uniform free float.Maybe only 2 layers close to the recieivr,but at leaqst 3 layers out on the forend.Test assemble and make sure you have clearance around the tape,Notouch is acceptable.
Then glass the channel.I'd use gel,and no extra fillers.Its easier.Fillers have thickness,and they make problems doing it in stages.

Be sure your guard screws a cl;earanced when you are done.

August 2, 2010, 05:31 PM	#1
Hoskins Senior Member Join Date: July 21, 2010 Posts: 240	Pillar & Glass Bedding + Free Floating a Barrel Ok gentlemen, I'm going to attempt to undergo some upgrades on my Winchester MOD 70 Ranger 7mm Rem Mag. Doing some research, I want to sand down the interior of the stock so that I can get the barrel to free float. I'm also thinking that glass bedding & pillar bedding will also greatly increase accuracy. I have NEVER attempted any of the above procedures. Are the procedures cabable of being done by someone with 0 expirence as long as I take my time & am being careful? Also, is doing all three an overkill? It seems that by doing one that it will improve accuracy, however, by doing all 3 it will get the most out of the rifle. What is you alls thoughts & advice for a novice/rookie!?

August 2, 2010, 07:20 PM	#2
oneoldsap Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2009 Location: I live in the foot of the Green Mountains of Vermont Posts: 1,602	DIY If you forget about the pillars , you can do the job yourself ! I doubt that a good pillar bedding job can be done by a novice , but hey its your gun ! If you buy a bedding kit from Brownell's ( I like the Acra Glass Gel ) it comes with instructions that will take you through the process step by step . Their web sight has a wealth of info also .

August 2, 2010, 08:33 PM	#3
hooligan1 Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2010 Location: Independence Missouri Posts: 4,585	Floating is fairly simple, only if you snatch an entire day from the family business.. Midway USA sells just about everything you'll need, including those pillars. Oneoldsap is definetly right about those pillars, as special tools and instruction are needed for that job. The floating you can definetly do yourself, as I have done it quite a few times. The whole idea is to remove anything touching the barrel from recoil lug to the end of the stock of course, There are basic instructions for this also if you look for them.(look up the process on midwayusa.com and others) 1. I like to set down in a chair, and put my rifle with the butt between my feet muzzle pointed to the sky, I take a piece of notebook paper and try to slide it under my barrel toward the action. taking a mental note where it gets hung up, or if it even can slide down. 2. I then remove barrel and visually inspect the stock for black or dark-spots, as this is where the barrel has vibrated and left distinguished marks up and down the inside of the stock 's barrel-channel. (for lack of a better name) If its too faint to distinguish then move on to step 3,.however if the channel is marked up, those are the places to start. 3. Carefully take that barrel-channel reamer and make long strokes from one end of the channel to the foreend (careful not to chip the foregrip) Remove excess material evenly for five or so strokes and reinstall barrel, and paper test it. As you repeat this series of actions you'll note the paper will start slipping down under the barrel easier, (On my rifles they can usually permit two or three thicknesses of notebook paper to easily slide to and fro). When you get to where your happy with the amount of material that you have removed then let's go to 4. 4.Now we'll start with a semi-rough grit of sandpaper,somewhere around 100 should be rough enough, completely sand channel, while carefull not to sand anywhere else on that stock, change your grades of sandpaper until it's smooth of all the reamer marks. When your also happy about the smoothness of the channel move to finish. 5. There are so many different products to use to seal this channel, and let me tell you this before you even start. Finish the channel carefully so that you only have to do it once!!!!!! Many coats of oil finish rubbed in works probably the best of all, and it's not too messy.. after the stock cures for the instructed time. replace barrel and torque to specs. Paper test. if it passes then wer'e off to the range, however sometimes the oil-finish will bring grain up and you have to lightly sand it once more. 6.This can be done by you if your fairly handy and can for a day be surgical and steady as to not bugger up any of the outside finish. And by all means if you don't think you can handle it the Smith will welcome it, along with those pillars. Synthetic stocks are a little less fussy as there is no need to refinish the channel just material removal, replace barrel and paper test and repeat until your happy Thanks for coming!

August 3, 2010, 01:53 AM	#4
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	All of us that have done it a few times know it can be done.Still,I would not wish the first time experience on anyone.It can be stressful.You might want to do it in stages.Is there a steel ferrule around the rear tang screw? If there is,good.As it is all in there,lined up right now,making a small job of just relieving a little around the tang,and under it,to make just a pad the size of a dime or so to locate just the tang,height and position,can be good, Then I might come up with a, reference area up in the front reciever area, Maybe the recoil lug area.Heck I might do both the tang and recoil lug with steel bed.I might relieve 1/16th or so.Then,I might do the same on the bottom metal.Just pads under the screws,and locating the functional datums. JUst bring the screws to light snug,in position,held in place,but no spring on the action.Maybe .010 clearance on the mag box to reciever fit.Tape clearance is enough. How thick do you want your glassbed?I make a little scribing gage,Make it so it wont scratch your metal,but you drag it around the reciever ,scribing a clean,uniform line.It might be .030.I suppose a 1/16 transfer punch might work. Now I get out my carving chisels,the little palm set,I use a small,sharp gouge,and like a one tooth beaver I plunge a vertical cut just up to,but not breaking the line.Do not scoop or pry,you'll split good wood.Make each nibble a careful cut.This is roughing.Later,use a flat chisel,sanding stick,fingernail emery board,whatever,.This is the cosmetic uniform line,it might only go 3/16 deep.Now you can go back in and finish clearing the wood on down to the receiver floor.You see,as you have the tang pad and the lug pad,etc,you are relieving everything else. While liquid Accraglass might be a touch superior,to seal and fit everything that is clearanced,I'd use gel for a first timer,It is awful to mix and pour glass only to see it start running out,leaving voids. Then I would clean and trim a while,and do the bottom metal.At this point,the receiver and bottom metal are done,and the barrel is as centered as it ever was. Myself,I think a pretty generous relief in the bbl channel is in order.If the forend has enough wood,3/32 is not too much.carefully gage scribe a line offset from the bbl,and carve it out.watch the line,clean with flat chisel,and I run larger sharp carving gouges down the channel,too.Sharp,you slice,not chip,split,Clean it up with round dowels with self adlesive orbitaql sander pads wrapped round assorted size dowels. I use vinyl tape ,smoothly applied to the bbl,to make a uniform free float.Maybe only 2 layers close to the recieivr,but at leaqst 3 layers out on the forend.Test assemble and make sure you have clearance around the tape,Notouch is acceptable. Then glass the channel.I'd use gel,and no extra fillers.Its easier.Fillers have thickness,and they make problems doing it in stages. Be sure your guard screws a cl;earanced when you are done.