M1A question

tostado22 · July 21, 2010, 06:47 PM

Im going to the range to shoot an M1A standard and possibly buy it this weekend. I had some quick questions tho. I dont have much experience with the M1/M14 action so does anyone have any advice or anything I need to check or look over? Also Im a lefty, anyone here a lefty that shoots the M1A? Just dont want any issues with ejected brass or anything because of me being left handed. That should be fine tho.

On a side note, hes wanting $1200 for a standard M1A, seems fair to me but wanted to check that price with people on here. It comes with a SA scope mount but no optics.

Thanks-Luper

nbkky71 · July 21, 2010, 09:00 PM

$1200 sounds like a fair price for a used standard model. However, you might need to do a little homework to make sure your bases are covered.

In a nutshell...

The more USGI parts, the more value the rifle has. The major components to look at are the trigger group, bolt, op rod and barrel. Check for obvious signs of wear/damage. Chrome lined barrels are usually an indicator of a USGI barrel, although some aftermarket barrels are chrome lined nowadays. If you can, check the muzzle and throat wear but a set of gauges is normally required to get an accurate measurement.

A copy of Scott Duff's M14 Owner's Guide is a good investment.

I shot an M1A in NRA highpower rifle competition for a number of years (left handed) and never had any issues with ejecting brass.

azredhawk44 · July 21, 2010, 09:51 PM

Another southpaw M14 shooter here.

I'd suggest checking:

1. the tab on the op-rod that guides the op-rod against the frame groove. Is there a lot of rattle or slop if you pull outwards/sideways gently?
2. The op-rod guide, attached to the barrel. Does it wiggle, or is it secure?
3. The alignment of the gas piston to the face of the op-rod. Is the contact square, or off-center?
4. The rear sight. Does it have slop/rattle? Does it lose adjustment during recoil?
5. Ejection. Does the rifle eject brass to the same place each shot, assuming you don't break position during a string and the ammo is the same type for the string?
6. Trigger/receiver fit. When assembled, does the trigger assembly wobble in any direction or have slop? Does the receiver, in the stock?
7. Trigger feel. Is it gritty, crisp, is the reset definable?

Unless the rifle is less than 100 rounds old, I think $1200 is too high. You might be able to find a new one around $1250, though you'd pay another $100 tax as well. I'd offer $1100. If the round count was over 2000, I'd offer $1000.

tostado22 · July 21, 2010, 11:21 PM

Thanks for the info. Im actually wanting to eventually get into some high power competitions myself, which is why Im wanting an M1A.

As for the price I was thinking about 1100 also just because you can always bring em down a little. I dont think its got 1000 rounds through it. Ill ask him when we go to the range. Ive seen it once before but never shot it and didnt get to go through too much so Ill have to check those parts out when we go.

madcratebuilder · July 22, 2010, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Unless the rifle is less than 100 rounds old, I think $1200 is too high. You might be able to find a new one around $1250, though you'd pay another $100 tax as well. I'd offer $1100. If the round count was over 2000, I'd offer $1000.

SA M1A's must really be cheap in your AO. Around here it's a $1300-1500 rifle depending on condition/gi parts. Pre ban GI rifles bring close to 2k on all the auction boards and seem to be the only ones selling.

SR420 · July 22, 2010, 08:10 AM

Quote:
Unless the rifle is less than 100 rounds old, I think $1200 is too high. You might be able to find a new one around $1250, though you'd pay another $100 tax as well. I'd offer $1100. If the round count was over 2000, I'd offer $1000.

Quote:

madcratebuilder

SA M1A's must really be cheap in your AO. Around here it's a $1300-1500 rifle depending on condition/gi parts. Pre ban GI rifles bring close to 2k on all the auction boards and seem to be the only ones selling.

I agree... $1000.00 is what Norinco and Poly Tech M14s sell for these days.

XD9GUY · July 22, 2010, 08:15 AM

Just a thought. When you go to to range to try it out, have the $1100 cash ready to hand him. If he has to wait when you have lowered his asking price, he may have second thoughts. In other words, "SHOW HIM THE MONEY"

nbkky71 · July 22, 2010, 09:47 AM

Outstanding tostado22! We can always use another highpower shooter on the firing line! I always had the hardest time getting a good sitting position when shooting my M1A, and my rapid fire scores showed it!

Bear in mind that a standard-grade M1A will only get you so far in the world of competitive shooting. If you want to seriously pursue shooting the M1A, you'll likely want to the have the rifle accurized by a competant gun-plumber. Depending on what you have done to the rifle, it can add some substantial costs to your rifle.

Good luck on the purchase!

tostado22 · July 22, 2010, 03:34 PM

Well being new to match shooting I want to get familiar with it and I will put some work into this one (my father in law is a gunsmith also,woohoo!). Eventually I want a national match M1A but not until I get back from my vacation to beautiful Iraq

July 21, 2010, 06:47 PM	#1
tostado22 Member Join Date: March 30, 2010 Posts: 54	M1A question Im going to the range to shoot an M1A standard and possibly buy it this weekend. I had some quick questions tho. I dont have much experience with the M1/M14 action so does anyone have any advice or anything I need to check or look over? Also Im a lefty, anyone here a lefty that shoots the M1A? Just dont want any issues with ejected brass or anything because of me being left handed. That should be fine tho. On a side note, hes wanting $1200 for a standard M1A, seems fair to me but wanted to check that price with people on here. It comes with a SA scope mount but no optics. Thanks-Luper

July 22, 2010, 09:47 AM	#8
nbkky71 Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2005 Location: Davidson, NC Posts: 417	Outstanding tostado22! We can always use another highpower shooter on the firing line! I always had the hardest time getting a good sitting position when shooting my M1A, and my rapid fire scores showed it! Bear in mind that a standard-grade M1A will only get you so far in the world of competitive shooting. If you want to seriously pursue shooting the M1A, you'll likely want to the have the rifle accurized by a competant gun-plumber. Depending on what you have done to the rifle, it can add some substantial costs to your rifle. Good luck on the purchase! Last edited by nbkky71; July 22, 2010 at 09:58 AM.

July 21, 2010, 09:00 PM	#2
nbkky71 Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2005 Location: Davidson, NC Posts: 417	$1200 sounds like a fair price for a used standard model. However, you might need to do a little homework to make sure your bases are covered. In a nutshell... The more USGI parts, the more value the rifle has. The major components to look at are the trigger group, bolt, op rod and barrel. Check for obvious signs of wear/damage. Chrome lined barrels are usually an indicator of a USGI barrel, although some aftermarket barrels are chrome lined nowadays. If you can, check the muzzle and throat wear but a set of gauges is normally required to get an accurate measurement. A copy of Scott Duff's M14 Owner's Guide is a good investment. I shot an M1A in NRA highpower rifle competition for a number of years (left handed) and never had any issues with ejecting brass.

July 21, 2010, 09:51 PM	#3
azredhawk44 Junior member Join Date: September 28, 2005 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 6,465	Another southpaw M14 shooter here. I'd suggest checking: 1. the tab on the op-rod that guides the op-rod against the frame groove. Is there a lot of rattle or slop if you pull outwards/sideways gently? 2. The op-rod guide, attached to the barrel. Does it wiggle, or is it secure? 3. The alignment of the gas piston to the face of the op-rod. Is the contact square, or off-center? 4. The rear sight. Does it have slop/rattle? Does it lose adjustment during recoil? 5. Ejection. Does the rifle eject brass to the same place each shot, assuming you don't break position during a string and the ammo is the same type for the string? 6. Trigger/receiver fit. When assembled, does the trigger assembly wobble in any direction or have slop? Does the receiver, in the stock? 7. Trigger feel. Is it gritty, crisp, is the reset definable? Unless the rifle is less than 100 rounds old, I think $1200 is too high. You might be able to find a new one around $1250, though you'd pay another $100 tax as well. I'd offer $1100. If the round count was over 2000, I'd offer $1000.

July 21, 2010, 11:21 PM	#4
tostado22 Member Join Date: March 30, 2010 Posts: 54	Thanks for the info. Im actually wanting to eventually get into some high power competitions myself, which is why Im wanting an M1A. As for the price I was thinking about 1100 also just because you can always bring em down a little. I dont think its got 1000 rounds through it. Ill ask him when we go to the range. Ive seen it once before but never shot it and didnt get to go through too much so Ill have to check those parts out when we go.

July 22, 2010, 08:15 AM	#7
XD9GUY Member Join Date: October 8, 2009 Posts: 57	Just a thought. When you go to to range to try it out, have the $1100 cash ready to hand him. If he has to wait when you have lowered his asking price, he may have second thoughts. In other words, "SHOW HIM THE MONEY"

July 22, 2010, 03:34 PM	#9
tostado22 Member Join Date: March 30, 2010 Posts: 54	Well being new to match shooting I want to get familiar with it and I will put some work into this one (my father in law is a gunsmith also,woohoo!). Eventually I want a national match M1A but not until I get back from my vacation to beautiful Iraq