Looking for J-frame action work

conipc · November 3, 2006, 06:22 PM

Looking for an excellent smith to improve a J-frame....recommendations?

Wildalaska · November 3, 2006, 06:39 PM

What improvements do you want and what Model

WildcuriousAlaska

ammo.crafter · November 3, 2006, 07:25 PM

Can I assume a S&W in 38spcl? Exactly what work are you looking for?

conipc · November 3, 2006, 08:37 PM

Would like the DA smoothed and lightened, and the built-in lock removed. Had a K done by Weigand, but he doesn't do them any more.....

orionengnr · November 3, 2006, 08:46 PM

Wow...

Wildgenuinecuriosityandnosarcasm?...gottabeafirst!Alaska

Say it aint so...you goin' soft?

OrionFlameSuitOnAndZippedEngineer

Wildalaska · November 3, 2006, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Say it aint so...you goin' soft?

Normal question, normal answer...try it sometime

WildtoucheAlaska

moose fat · November 5, 2006, 10:05 PM

How about sending it back to S&W?

CDH · November 5, 2006, 10:57 PM

Quote:

How about sending it back to S&W?

And if you do that, I'd sure like you to report back here and tell us if S&W would actually consent to removing the safety lock and installing a solid side plate to get rid of the hole (and how it costs).

Carter

moose fat · November 9, 2006, 03:11 AM

Yes I know the questions, there have been some duscusions on removeing S&W locks and voiding the (lifetime) waranty. They are experts at trigger jobs!

LSP972 · November 9, 2006, 08:17 AM

A "solid" side plate???

That would be a trick; since the lock hole is on the frame side, not the plate side...

If you send it back to Springfield, they will return it to you in the same condition it left the factory the first time.

Other than preventing the revolver from firing if the lock malfunctions

, the lock really doesn't affect the trigger pull. It is a simple matter to remove the lock plate, therefore ensuring that it won't self-engage at the wrong moment.

But as to "trigger jobs" on J frames... it can be done, but it had better be done by someone who knows what he is about. While the parts look the same as the bigger guns, a J frame's action is stressed differently due to the coil, as opposed to leaf, mainspring.

IOW, you're probably better off living with the trigger pull you have. Getting rid of the retarded lock is easy; sending your revolver back to Springfield after some yahoo screws it up trying to do a "trigger job" on it is annoying and expensive.

Besides, these are belly guns. You won't (or shouldn't be, anyway) making any 25 yard head shots. Under stress, you're going to yank that trigger as hard as you can... trust me on that.

Of course, if you have a Kit Gun that you plink with; then, yes, a better trigger is worth pursuing. But in all my years of fooling with these things (including being a factory-certified S&W armorer since 1987), I've never heard of a mechanic who specializes in J-frame action work. The little suckers are simply difficult to clean up properly.

Yeah, people cut springs, install after-market springs, stone this, stone that... and sometimes the gun even keeps working.

Do you feel lucky? Roll the dice...

.
.

nero · November 9, 2006, 11:09 AM

My grandfather has a minty(well, was minty) S&W flat-latch Chief's Special .38 (he bought it NIB in the 50's). A few years ago he got it into his head that he wanted to do a trigger job on it himself. Despite my pleas to just leave it as is, he went to fiddle-farting on it. After his ham-handed ministrations, nothing but light primer strikes, and lock-ups. I tried to get him to send it to S&W or a good gunsmith for some TLC, but no, he says he can "fix'er up"....Yeah, he fixed it up all right. It's in pieces in a cigar box. When I inherit it, I'll have it brought back to it's former glory.

I love my grandfather, but I wouldn't trust him to field-strip a sling-shot....

nero

don't shoot it's me · November 9, 2006, 04:47 PM

LSP makes some valid points...these are belly guns..if you can put all 5 rounds in the black at 7 yards rapid fire, you are good to go...just about anyone can with a bone stock 442/642 with a little practice.

Red Grant · November 22, 2006, 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSP972

The little suckers are simply difficult to clean properly.

What about http://www.briley.com?

I've actually called these guys and asked about their "roller-bearing trigger kit" with DA work. ($375?)

The site didn't say whether they work on J-frame, and I know, in general, smaller the firearm, the harder it is to work on.

They did confirm that they do work on J-frame.

The reason I'm interested in roller-bearing trigger kit is that the revolver with the best DA trigger pull in the world (according to S.W.A.T's Leroy Thompson) is French Manhurin MR-73 revolver, which does have roller-bearing trigger.

mjrodney · November 22, 2006, 05:27 AM

I've had my bride's SP-101 worked on by Grant Cunningham out of Oregon.

Top notch work.

www.grantcunningham.com

He only works on revolvers.

LSP972 · November 22, 2006, 10:16 AM

Red, I've heard about this deal, but have no first-hand knowledge of it.

My first impression is... might be okay for a range gun, but I don't think I'd want a carry piece with this.

And, while the Manhurin revolvers are indeed nice, the few I've handled were no match for super slick PPC action on a K-frame S&W, done by the likes of Bill Davis, Ron Power, et. al.

Of course, those are for target use only; no free lunch.

Golddog · November 22, 2006, 05:36 PM

Jim Miossi, who's an acknowledged master at action jobs on CZ semi-autos, also does action jobs on J frames. Check him out.

SnWnMe · November 22, 2006, 07:22 PM

Dry fire. About 2000 times. Then do it again. It's good for the action and does wonders for your hands as well.

Socrates · November 26, 2006, 08:00 AM

I DID. NOW MY 360PD IS GOING TO THE GUNSMITH. IT LOCKED UP, AND WON'T FIRE AT ALL. THE CYLINDER WON'T EVEN SWING OUT. THIS FROM JUST DRY FIRING ON SNAP CAPS...

S

WESHOOT2 · November 26, 2006, 10:15 AM

No professional gunsmith will remove that 'lock'.

For gunsmithing check here: www.americanpistol.com

LSP972 · November 26, 2006, 10:33 AM

Socrates,

No doubt your extractor rod was loose when you got the gun, and all the dry-firing caused it to back out and bind the cylinder/yoke.

This is one area that constantly needs checking on ANY revolver; that extractor rod must be tight. Takes five seconds to check, every time you have the cylinder open (unless, of course, when firing/reloading).

If you haven't brought it to the gunsmith yet, you can probably fix it yourself with little effort. If this is indeed the problem, getting the cylinder open is no big deal; tightening the extractor rod once you have it open, so that the rod isn't bent, takes some care and attention to detail.

.

SnWnMe · November 26, 2006, 11:26 AM

And use some blue Loc Tite on it when you tighten it this time.

November 3, 2006, 06:22 PM	#1
conipc Member Join Date: November 1, 2006 Posts: 16	Looking for J-frame action work Looking for an excellent smith to improve a J-frame....recommendations?

November 3, 2006, 07:25 PM	#3
ammo.crafter Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2006 Location: The Keystone State Posts: 1,970	Can I assume a S&W in 38spcl? Exactly what work are you looking for? __________________ "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". --Thomas Jefferson

November 3, 2006, 08:37 PM	#4
conipc Member Join Date: November 1, 2006 Posts: 16	642 Would like the DA smoothed and lightened, and the built-in lock removed. Had a K done by Weigand, but he doesn't do them any more.....

November 22, 2006, 05:27 AM	#14
mjrodney Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2006 Location: SW Florida Posts: 435	I've had my bride's SP-101 worked on by Grant Cunningham out of Oregon. Top notch work. www.grantcunningham.com He only works on revolvers. __________________ Proud supporter of the NRA

November 22, 2006, 07:22 PM	#17
SnWnMe Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2004 Location: So Cal Posts: 381	Dry fire. About 2000 times. Then do it again. It's good for the action and does wonders for your hands as well. __________________ If you can kick in the pants the person responsible for your problems, you won't be able to sit for a month.

November 3, 2006, 06:39 PM	#2
Wildalaska Junior member Join Date: November 25, 2002 Location: In my own little weird world in Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 14,172	What improvements do you want and what Model WildcuriousAlaska

November 3, 2006, 08:46 PM	#5
orionengnr Senior Member Join Date: July 9, 2004 Posts: 5,177	Wow... Wildgenuinecuriosityandnosarcasm?...gottabeafirst!Alaska Say it aint so...you goin' soft? OrionFlameSuitOnAndZippedEngineer

November 5, 2006, 10:05 PM	#7
moose fat Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Alaska, Yukon R. delta Posts: 421	How about sending it back to S&W?

November 9, 2006, 03:11 AM	#9
moose fat Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Alaska, Yukon R. delta Posts: 421	Yes I know the questions, there have been some duscusions on removeing S&W locks and voiding the (lifetime) waranty. They are experts at trigger jobs!

November 9, 2006, 08:17 AM	#10
LSP972 Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2006 Posts: 189	A "solid" side plate??? That would be a trick; since the lock hole is on the frame side, not the plate side... If you send it back to Springfield, they will return it to you in the same condition it left the factory the first time. Other than preventing the revolver from firing if the lock malfunctions , the lock really doesn't affect the trigger pull. It is a simple matter to remove the lock plate, therefore ensuring that it won't self-engage at the wrong moment. But as to "trigger jobs" on J frames... it can be done, but it had better be done by someone who knows what he is about. While the parts look the same as the bigger guns, a J frame's action is stressed differently due to the coil, as opposed to leaf, mainspring. IOW, you're probably better off living with the trigger pull you have. Getting rid of the retarded lock is easy; sending your revolver back to Springfield after some yahoo screws it up trying to do a "trigger job" on it is annoying and expensive. Besides, these are belly guns. You won't (or shouldn't be, anyway) making any 25 yard head shots. Under stress, you're going to yank that trigger as hard as you can... trust me on that. Of course, if you have a Kit Gun that you plink with; then, yes, a better trigger is worth pursuing. But in all my years of fooling with these things (including being a factory-certified S&W armorer since 1987), I've never heard of a mechanic who specializes in J-frame action work. The little suckers are simply difficult to clean up properly. Yeah, people cut springs, install after-market springs, stone this, stone that... and sometimes the gun even keeps working. Do you feel lucky? Roll the dice... . .

November 9, 2006, 11:09 AM	#11
nero Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 2005 Location: Tampa Bay Area Posts: 221	My grandfather has a minty(well, was minty) S&W flat-latch Chief's Special .38 (he bought it NIB in the 50's). A few years ago he got it into his head that he wanted to do a trigger job on it himself. Despite my pleas to just leave it as is, he went to fiddle-farting on it. After his ham-handed ministrations, nothing but light primer strikes, and lock-ups. I tried to get him to send it to S&W or a good gunsmith for some TLC, but no, he says he can "fix'er up"....Yeah, he fixed it up all right. It's in pieces in a cigar box. When I inherit it, I'll have it brought back to it's former glory. I love my grandfather, but I wouldn't trust him to field-strip a sling-shot.... nero

November 9, 2006, 04:47 PM	#12
don't shoot it's me Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2001 Location: NY first/LA second Posts: 1,537	LSP makes some valid points...these are belly guns..if you can put all 5 rounds in the black at 7 yards rapid fire, you are good to go...just about anyone can with a bone stock 442/642 with a little practice.

November 22, 2006, 10:16 AM	#15
LSP972 Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2006 Posts: 189	Red, I've heard about this deal, but have no first-hand knowledge of it. My first impression is... might be okay for a range gun, but I don't think I'd want a carry piece with this. And, while the Manhurin revolvers are indeed nice, the few I've handled were no match for super slick PPC action on a K-frame S&W, done by the likes of Bill Davis, Ron Power, et. al. Of course, those are for target use only; no free lunch.

November 22, 2006, 05:36 PM	#16
Golddog Senior Member Join Date: July 29, 2006 Location: rural central Maryland Posts: 151	Jim Miossi, who's an acknowledged master at action jobs on CZ semi-autos, also does action jobs on J frames. Check him out.

November 26, 2006, 08:00 AM	#18
Socrates Junior member Join Date: January 5, 2005 Location: East Bay NorCal, People's Republik of Kalifornia Posts: 5,866	I DID. NOW MY 360PD IS GOING TO THE GUNSMITH. IT LOCKED UP, AND WON'T FIRE AT ALL. THE CYLINDER WON'T EVEN SWING OUT. THIS FROM JUST DRY FIRING ON SNAP CAPS... S

November 26, 2006, 10:15 AM	#19
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	First No professional gunsmith will remove that 'lock'. For gunsmithing check here: www.americanpistol.com __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

November 26, 2006, 10:33 AM	#20
LSP972 Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2006 Posts: 189	Socrates, No doubt your extractor rod was loose when you got the gun, and all the dry-firing caused it to back out and bind the cylinder/yoke. This is one area that constantly needs checking on ANY revolver; that extractor rod must be tight. Takes five seconds to check, every time you have the cylinder open (unless, of course, when firing/reloading). If you haven't brought it to the gunsmith yet, you can probably fix it yourself with little effort. If this is indeed the problem, getting the cylinder open is no big deal; tightening the extractor rod once you have it open, so that the rod isn't bent, takes some care and attention to detail. .

November 26, 2006, 11:26 AM	#21
SnWnMe Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2004 Location: So Cal Posts: 381	Mind that the rod is reverse threaded. And use some blue Loc Tite on it when you tighten it this time. __________________ If you can kick in the pants the person responsible for your problems, you won't be able to sit for a month.