7400 triggers are they ajustable for creep?

ed in texico · January 4, 2006, 12:30 AM

Remmington 7400 has long travel and plenty of creep can a good gunsmith fix this or do I just have to live with it?

leckie66 · January 23, 2006, 09:32 AM

if this gun is similar to the older 742 their are two pins that are made to be driven out with the tip of a bullet that would drop out the complete trigger assembly. you can lubricate the sear and catch, you will see what im talking about when you have the assembly out, if you put your thumb on the hammer and release the trigger you than can lubricate the sear notch,,,this can make a dramatic change in trigger pull,,I leave triggers alone and only work them if absolutely necessary,,

**Unclenick** · January 23, 2006, 01:20 PM

The take-up travel of a 2-stage trigger is inherent in a lot of semi-auto rifle mechanisms. Without it, the sear cannot reliably re-engage during the buffeting that recoil and cycling introduce. Most shooters consider the additional first stage desirable, as it pre-loads the trigger finger to snap through the release. Conversions to 2-stage are available for the Savage, for example. It also helps prevent accidental discharges among those who haven't been properly instructed to keep their trigger finger outside the trigger guard until the gun's sights are directed toward a target (Cooper's Rule 3).

Over-travel, the continued motion of the trigger after the engagement releases, is undesirable because it allows the trigger finger to accelerate before bumping to a stop against the end of travel. This occurs faster than the lock time of the weapon, so it can cause the shooter’s aim to be disrupted before the bullet gets out of the tube. It is a bigger problem for handguns than for rifles because the position of a lighter gun is easier to disturb.

Over-travel can often be corrected with the addition of a set screw, but some mechanisms rely on a small amount of over-travel for the disconnector to work properly. I don't know the 7400 mechanism, so I can't address anything specific about it. Just be aware that trying to achieve some trigger characteristics may come at the expense of proper operation. This includes the possibility of spontaneous slam firing. doubling, tripling, or other uncontrolled full-auto firing. Whether this happens is determined cartridge-by-by cartridge, so it may sometimes only defeat the semi-auto performance by failing to keep the hammer cocked. Neither is good, since both cost you control of the weapon.

I am fussy about triggers and have adjusted or worked on the triggers of every gun I have. But the most important element in trigger work is that thorough understanding of every aspect the particular mechanism you are altering and how it interacts with the rest of the gun. If you aren’t confident you have this, don’t monkey with the trigger, and don’t take a trigger you have fiddled with into the field if you don’t know how to prove its reliability.

Take the advice to try lubrication. The limiting factor is that conventional lubricant films tend to thin out and rub away over time, making their assistance irregular. I would, therefore, consider a "permanent" lubricant. One is Sprinco Plate+ Silver. Just clean the trigger thoroughly in solvent (naphthalene is good), let it dry, warm it slightly with a hair dryer to drive out any condensation, and drop it in the Plate+ for 72 hours. They make a grease form that is particularly good in trigger engagements, but do the soak first, then supplement with the grease.

I have also been experimenting with MolyFusion oil. This only takes 20 minutes to react if you warm the parts to hot water temperatures. This is a metal conversion process, so it needs bare metal to work on, even though the mineral oil in the carrier will serve as a light lube for finished areas. You will want to fully disassemble the parts and keep swabbing this product over the surfaces during the 20 minutes for best effect. It forms a micron thick layer of molybdenum phosphate on the part surface that has significant corrosion resistant as well as lubrication properties.

These two products work on totally different principles. The Plate+ is a microscopically tenacious lubricant that bonds electrically to iron and will penetrate even if the parts are not disassembled. The MolyFusion is a bonded surface coating, analogous to the Teflon on cookware, but thinner and more intimately adhered. It has the advantage of working on aluminum, which Plate+ has no affinity for.

Nick

leckie66 · January 28, 2006, 05:48 PM

hey thanks for the info,,years ago we used a product called dri slide I guess im showing my age,,I love this site

January 4, 2006, 12:30 AM	#1
ed in texico Junior Member Join Date: January 4, 2006 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1	7400 triggers are they ajustable for creep? Remmington 7400 has long travel and plenty of creep can a good gunsmith fix this or do I just have to live with it?

January 23, 2006, 09:32 AM	#2
leckie66 Member Join Date: January 22, 2006 Posts: 20	if this gun is similar to the older 742 their are two pins that are made to be driven out with the tip of a bullet that would drop out the complete trigger assembly. you can lubricate the sear and catch, you will see what im talking about when you have the assembly out, if you put your thumb on the hammer and release the trigger you than can lubricate the sear notch,,,this can make a dramatic change in trigger pull,,I leave triggers alone and only work them if absolutely necessary,,

January 23, 2006, 01:20 PM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	The take-up travel of a 2-stage trigger is inherent in a lot of semi-auto rifle mechanisms. Without it, the sear cannot reliably re-engage during the buffeting that recoil and cycling introduce. Most shooters consider the additional first stage desirable, as it pre-loads the trigger finger to snap through the release. Conversions to 2-stage are available for the Savage, for example. It also helps prevent accidental discharges among those who haven't been properly instructed to keep their trigger finger outside the trigger guard until the gun's sights are directed toward a target (Cooper's Rule 3). Over-travel, the continued motion of the trigger after the engagement releases, is undesirable because it allows the trigger finger to accelerate before bumping to a stop against the end of travel. This occurs faster than the lock time of the weapon, so it can cause the shooter’s aim to be disrupted before the bullet gets out of the tube. It is a bigger problem for handguns than for rifles because the position of a lighter gun is easier to disturb. Over-travel can often be corrected with the addition of a set screw, but some mechanisms rely on a small amount of over-travel for the disconnector to work properly. I don't know the 7400 mechanism, so I can't address anything specific about it. Just be aware that trying to achieve some trigger characteristics may come at the expense of proper operation. This includes the possibility of spontaneous slam firing. doubling, tripling, or other uncontrolled full-auto firing. Whether this happens is determined cartridge-by-by cartridge, so it may sometimes only defeat the semi-auto performance by failing to keep the hammer cocked. Neither is good, since both cost you control of the weapon. I am fussy about triggers and have adjusted or worked on the triggers of every gun I have. But the most important element in trigger work is that thorough understanding of every aspect the particular mechanism you are altering and how it interacts with the rest of the gun. If you aren’t confident you have this, don’t monkey with the trigger, and don’t take a trigger you have fiddled with into the field if you don’t know how to prove its reliability. Take the advice to try lubrication. The limiting factor is that conventional lubricant films tend to thin out and rub away over time, making their assistance irregular. I would, therefore, consider a "permanent" lubricant. One is Sprinco Plate+ Silver. Just clean the trigger thoroughly in solvent (naphthalene is good), let it dry, warm it slightly with a hair dryer to drive out any condensation, and drop it in the Plate+ for 72 hours. They make a grease form that is particularly good in trigger engagements, but do the soak first, then supplement with the grease. I have also been experimenting with MolyFusion oil. This only takes 20 minutes to react if you warm the parts to hot water temperatures. This is a metal conversion process, so it needs bare metal to work on, even though the mineral oil in the carrier will serve as a light lube for finished areas. You will want to fully disassemble the parts and keep swabbing this product over the surfaces during the 20 minutes for best effect. It forms a micron thick layer of molybdenum phosphate on the part surface that has significant corrosion resistant as well as lubrication properties. These two products work on totally different principles. The Plate+ is a microscopically tenacious lubricant that bonds electrically to iron and will penetrate even if the parts are not disassembled. The MolyFusion is a bonded surface coating, analogous to the Teflon on cookware, but thinner and more intimately adhered. It has the advantage of working on aluminum, which Plate+ has no affinity for. Nick

January 28, 2006, 05:48 PM	#4
leckie66 Member Join Date: January 22, 2006 Posts: 20	hey thanks for the info,,years ago we used a product called dri slide I guess im showing my age,,I love this site