Python cylinder release is stiff

[RickC]

I used to own a Python that had the smoothest action, including the cylinder release catch, that I ever saw. Then some ***hole broke into my home and stole it.

Now I have it's replacement, but the cylinder release is stiff like you wouldn't believe. Any thoughts? Can I tweak this myself? or do I need to get Colt involved? I've heard there's no one left there who knows how to tune these thoroughbreds.

Rick

[George Stringer]

Rick, I'd look at two areas. First is anything rubbing or intefering with the release's movement and if not, second replace the spring with a lighter one. George

[4V50 Gary]

The very old Pythons were well machined and the thumbpiece (cylinder release) was a fitted part. Later, as standards declined, a nylon insert was placed into a hole drilled into the thumbpiece. The nylon insert acted as a buffer between the thumbpiece and the sideplate.

You may want to remove the sideplate (two screws) and clean the thumbpiece and the sideplate (pay particular attention to the tract the thumbpiece rides in and the area which houses the thumbpiece spring). Also clean the inside area of the thumbpiece and apply some grease to the working mechanism while you have the sideplate off. Check for rubbing between the thumbpiece and sideplate. That nylon buffer may be worn and may need replacing.

Check out my thread on Lassen College here at the Smithy Forum. My instructor, Bob Dunlap, is a genius with Colt Pythons. Unfortunately, he's not teaching Advance Revolver this summer semester.

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

[4V50 Gary]

RickC,

If you would like to learn how about the internal lockwork of the Python, check out this old thread:
http://www.thefiringline.com/NonCGI/...ML/000425.html

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

[This message has been edited by 4V50 Gary (edited March 28, 2000).]

[RickC]

Thanks for the insight. I'm sending this gun back for work. The failure occurred after the first 6 rounds, and when I say stiff to operate, I really mean that the release snaps to the rear to release the cylinder, then remains in the rearward position until you snap it forward. It takes quite a bit of effort to get it to move.

You aren't kidding when you say the standards have slipped. My first Python was a gem and never let me down through several hundred rounds of both 38's and full-magnum 357's. I estimate that gun was made in the mid-70's. Wish I had been home the weedend they broke in and stole it ... I'd likely still have it. This new one looks like the old one, but I question if it will stand up as well.

Thanks again (and I am going to check out the other thread you recommended.)

Cheers,
Rick

[4V50 Gary]

Rick,

It could be dirty. 90% of firearm malfunctions are attributable to poor maintenance. It could also be a burr or broken spring.

Gary

[JNewell]

4V50 Gary -- I think the Python thread you mentioned is no longer available. If this is the thread on Python disassembly, is there a way to restore it to the archives?

Many thanks,
John

[4V50 Gary]

JNewell: Opps! Guess I never wrote a piece on how to disassemble the Python. What I wrote was a piece which describes the internal workings of the Python. Check out this link:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...hreadid=20347.

To disassemble the Python, use hollow ground screwdrivers which fit the screw. You don't want to scratch up that jewel of a gun or ruin the screw head because you're too cheap to buy a good screwdriver set.

Remove the grips. Now, slowly remove the screw on the right side of the frame. Don't let this drop as it has a spring and plunger in it. Withdrawl of this screw allows you to remove the cylinder.

Next, flip the gun back so that the left side is facing you. Remove the screws which secure the sideplate. Place a flat screwdriver into the frame (about where the V mainspring is) and you should be able to pop the sideplate off (this is unlike a Smith & Wesson where you tap the plate off). Removal of the sideplate exposes the internal lockwork (suggest at this point you study a printout version of the link above).

For further disassembly, compress the mainspring and disconnect it from the hammer strut. This allows you to withdraw the mainspring. I remove the hand next by slipping a screwdriver in and prying it up. Squeeze the hammer back such that the sear clears the trigger and lift the hammer/sear out of the frame. Use a pin punch and drive the pin which retains the rebound lever out. This allows removal of the rebound lever. Now, you may lift the trigger. The safety and safety lever may come out with the trigger. To remove the bolt (cylinder stop), use a small screwdriver and disengage the bolt spring (be sure to place your hand over it to keep it from going into orbit). Remove the screw which holds the bolt to the frame. This allows you to remove the bolt.

Turning to the sideplate, the cylinder release should just slide off. There's a spring behind it which fits into the sideplate. Besure to take that out too.

I'll discuss disassembly of the cylinder another day (and reassembly).

[JNewell]

4V50 Gary --

Tnx, will look forward to more when the spirit moves you.

I remember the part about tapping S&W plates off with a wood dowel or hammer handle (is that right?), but I don't remember which side to tap! I assume you tap the _solid_ side (facing up) and the removeable plate falls out?

[4V50 Gary]

Tapping is done only on S&W revolvers (I tap the grip on the same side as the sideplate) to remove the sideplate. On Colts, you pry them up in a slow, controlled manner. You don't want the cylinder release to jump out and lose the spring, do you?

[JNewell]

No, that was understood -- I was changing from Colt to S&W there...no fear! :-)