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View Full Version : Gold plate? for Logo on Stainless Slide


MatthewM
October 14, 2001, 02:12 AM
I, maybe, want to make the Kimber logo on my slide gold colored. What is the best way?
I saw the Lacquer Stick mentioned.
A smith mentioned a wax based product.
What is the BEST way to do this?

Gun is now all stainless mix of brushed / semi polished. Black rubber Hogue with finger bumps.

Would a gold trigger also be cool, or too much?

George Stringer
October 14, 2001, 07:12 AM
MatthewM, Brownells sells a product called Bonanza that works very well. I've used it to fill in the lettering etc on a lot of guns for folks. George

Herr Walther
October 14, 2001, 10:16 AM
I've used the Bonanza on a couple of Walthers. I used the stick on my Kimber. Turned out very good. The gold looks especially good with stainless.

If you ever decide to do a gun that has been Parked, DON'T. It can be a real mess trying to get the excess off without taking the fill out of the roll marks.

I'll tell ya, Brownell's has stuff you didn't even knew you needed until you see it in their catalog.

Ledbetter
October 14, 2001, 12:27 PM
I ordered a white Lacquer stick to fill in the lettering on my parked M1A. Am I wasting my time?

Regards,

Ledbetter

Herr Walther
October 14, 2001, 12:54 PM
Because of the roughness of the surface of Parked steel, the stick will get into every microscopic pit on the surface.

Parkerization etches the metal as it works. It makes it good for holding oil as a rust preventative. Unfortunately, it will also hold that white lacquer stick stuff really well too.

It can be done, but it is time consuming and you may not get all of the white off of the surfaces without taking it out of the roll marks. Acetone is what I use for clean-up. Go to RadioShack and get a bag of head cleaning swabs. Don't use Q-tips. They're way to fuzzy.

Dip the head in the acetone and squeeze off the excess and work carefully between and around the letters changing out the swab often. Very often. You don't want to be rubbing the white stuff that you just got off of the gun on to another area. It helps to hold the swab stationary in one spot and gently roll it between your fingers for one turn. Depending on the area of the roll marks, you may go through 20-30 swabs to get all of the excess off.

Good luck.

MatthewM
October 14, 2001, 02:32 PM
You could "paint" the area AROUND the lettering with PVA before doing the lettering. This stuff is water based and can be washed back off. It is clear. PolyVinylAcetate. Alternatively you could tape OVER the letters & apply car wax to the surrounding area. Let dry and remove tape.

Before starting the job. Use gun cleaner on the letters. Then use soapy water. Then use lacquer cleaner (Carb cleaner) or acetone (fingernail polish remover). You want the paint to stick so the surface must be very clean.

This is all nothing to do with parkerized. Just basic car paint prep re cleaning. PVA & wax are used as mold release for doing fiberglass work. Such as, bedding an action.

Herr Walther
October 14, 2001, 03:40 PM
Uh, maybe I'm missing something here, but how do you tape over letters that are sometimes 3/32" to 1/8" in size?

Either one, the PVA will be rubbed off by the stick during the application process, or two, the solvent in the liquid Bonanza will disolve the PVA. Same with the wax. That would really be a mess.

You're mixing your apples and oranges. This is not a car that he's trying to paint. I agree with the fact that the area must be clean, but that's about it.