Has anyone converted an aluminum-frame LW 1911 to a roundbutt?

[Rangerrich99]

Okay, here's the deal: I have a few 1911s, including a S&W 1911 SC-E roundbutt or bobtail. It quickly became my favorite 1911, and one of the biggest reasons is the roundbutt configuration. Not only does it conceal better, but it just fits my hands a lot better than a traditional square butt design.

Anyway, I'm seriously considering converting my Ruger SR1911 LW commander to a roundbutt, however I'm not sure it's even possible, as the frame is aluminum.

So my question is, can an aluminum-framed 1911 even be converted/ground down to a bobtail?

[Siggy-06]

If you find a round butt grip spring housing, there is no reason you wouldn't be able to grind down an aluminum frame. I'd take it to a competent machinist or gunsmith to do it though.

[HiBC]

There is a fine point of discrepancy in your post.
"Roundbutt" and "Bobtail" are not the same.
Making the conversion is way different.
I put the "roundbutt" config in a Randall clone of a Commander.Mine is SS,but it does not matter.I really prefer it! It truly changes the grip for the better,IMO.Its subtle,but noticeable.
I think it is Wilson that makes them,and I think you can get them in aluminum.
I like the checkered version.
This job can be done with a file.The mainspring housing pin is good to go in the original location.The corners of the rear part of the frame get shaped a little.

A "Bobtail" is a different ballgame.It uses some Officer's Model geometry.
With the Officer's model,the grip,mainspring housing,mainspring,etc are shorter,and the mainspring housing pin is in a different location.
The Bobtail requires relocaing the pin that retains the mainspring housing to the Officer's Model location.Redrilling this hole must be done with precision.Its not an amateur job.

That done,the depth of the blind hole for the mainspring is shallower...Officer's model depth,so more material can be bobbed off.

Wilson makes a drilling jig,for maybe $60 ?? or so. If you are a confident machinist with a mill,you MIGHT get the pin located right without the jig.

Its a bummer if you go to put the pin in and the holes are not aligned or the housing is not quite in position.

I have not done one,I went roundbutt,but I could see the possibilities.

Good luck!
Note hole locations:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/913954/wilson-combat-mainspring-housing-flat-round-butt-1911-government-commander-checkered-20-lpi-steel-blue

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1485467703/ed-brown-mainspring-housing-bobtail-1911-government-commander-chainlink-ii

[WC145]

My Alchemy Custom Springfield LW Champion has a kind of round butt/mini-bobtail. It looks and feels good. Pretty much any mods you can do to a steel frame can be done to aluminum.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/21hZisteDbn3lEoPcUgM6pRuFn-qf2nA4UWcKrYJiZ4DlAHmbAWl1TFXPP6ms2rhpDuUfRMAJDCud35HmxlHdppGDrLPIENnJXik_ORbrKY67ji5iLmXXePLvPBaSV4Yx5q1BnV3fc5B75WBFvIiznOK_xzzmmaDW6cug-idQ0FaQv3svL6_nu2-WuQAbJMF6SlCfEgf6qYb85JgV15szcB4WH8eJhJEKpUacS1oINmKDyj5VYP2A3LoRlNSmDeTNXQUs6vkF77hs93XP0U0R929xgL2jegjvnxSLYZhJ-VPhfE9iNdIVF7VTEPif0I75fdYdzRlKWf712J35hZSUlUA8Y-x4QSrZj5ydkCd1kjW2IAI232FD9n23TUHjlRUpBodCgDjn_SLxJiubgR0C0mFbwOdAZHQI9hBGVEf0m97FHZw3LhelNYU1nI02sOVkkcBr2aXAWAc7Ggeo961o6q42gCbnhe82VxzISRTK6QXiWf3hWotc_4GL5XCeAqhCCQ6SdPmOXnZ9SlhA5BFqUEQZOdpf9urHRs5IrHB8isO9npXMTah7NmYA1rAU8dtgK6waAieLAEHr4-vN5gpI7L_GSstwmqEvH2VhHeQOJzfD6wMsDHBnw=w600-h416-no

[RickB]

I'm no machinist, but I've drilled a few holes in things, and I remember that you should not put a hole closer to the edge of the material than the diameter of the hole, so I'd be careful about how much frame is removed in the rounding process if you are going to modify a standard mainspring housing.

The Alchemy Custom gun shows more material in the rounded area than immediately below the pin, so it would appear some additional rounding could have been performed.

[Aguila Blanca]

The problem with grinding away part of an aluminum alloy frame is that aluminum frames generally have an anodized surface. That's not a coating, it's a chemical conversion of a VERY thin top layer of the metal. Once you start grinding away material, you remove the anodizing, exposing the raw metal to atmospheric corrosion. Make no mistake -- aluminum doesn't "rust," but it does corrode, and sometimes very rapidly.

If you wish to do a round butt or bobtail conversion on an alloy frame, give some thought beforehand to how you're going to refinish the ground surfaces.

[Rangerrich99]

There is a fine point of discrepancy in your post.
"Roundbutt" and "Bobtail" are not the same.

@HiBC;

Yes, I knew there was a difference, but at the time of my OP I wasn't sure which was which. As it turns out, S&W refers to it's 1911 SC-E as a roundbutt not a bobtail, so my mistake. I would like to convert my Ruger to a round-butt style, a la my S&W, if at all possible.

@Aguila Blanca;

Okay, that was my original thought as well, which is why I wanted to ask the question. If that anodized surface is ground away, what are my options as far as re-anodizing/re-coating it (or some other solution) to prevent corrosion? Would a competent gunsmith be aware of this issue and have a reliable solution?

I guess at this point I need to consult some 1911 savvy gunsmiths in my area to see what they think about this.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

[WC145]

Talk to Nighthawk, they do excellent work on customer guns including reanodizing at very reasonable prices and turn around times.