CZ Reliability Issues: Possible Fix

[Sharpsdressed Man]

FYI, FWIW: A litttle insight to what might be some, if not MOST of the problems with CZ's. Personally, I prefer the pre-B models, as they have longer, smoother & lighter trigger actions than the B's, but share a common problem with the 75B's: weak, worn, or metallurgically poor springs. I expected some problems with my guns, as they are both over 25 years old, and both needed some spring replacement. A weak or worn extractor spring is going to affect extraction,causing stovepipes, etc. Weak mag springs can also affect feeding. Recoil springs should be changed in ALL guns after X-thousands of rounds (varies gun to gun with different level loads, etc). As long as the basic function of the gun is good, and mag, recoil, extractor, and mag catch springs are in good working order, CZ's should be equivalent or superior to their competition. Look hard at the springs if functioning is not what it should be. I have had to replace extractor AND mag catch springs, and some magazine springs, and now both run 100%. Wolff Springs are great replacements, but some springs will need to come from CZ, as Wolff doesn't list them all.

[tekarra]

A good reminder Sharps. I may need to change some of mine.

[chris in va]

All my CZ's have had issues, and I look at it as a challenge.

My 75bd would jam on the incoming round. Ditching the factory mags (with Wolff springs no less) for MecGar helped a lot, and final 100% happened when I taper crimped everything.

Kadet kit shot the firing pin out the back due to a weak pin spring. Otherwise flawless.

97b just needed some fiddling with the proper HP profile and OAL. My main competition gun now.

527, light firing pin strikes on Wolf and CCI primers.

So quirky and fixable.

[Walt Sherrill]

(Note: just rewritten a bit to better organize some random thoughts.)

The often repeated statement about crappy CZ springs seems to be a bit overdone.

About the ONLY springs you should ever have to worry about with a CZ is, with older models: the extractor spring. Newer models already have these springs, but having one or two in your spare parts bin couldn't hurt.

Magazine spring wear is a function of how they're used or stored. But the Wolff +5% mag springs are generally quite good. High-cap mags, if stored fully loaded, will degrade over time more quickly than if stored empty, or 1-2 rounds down. You could have the same problem with Ruger or SIG magazine springs, depending on how their used, and whether they're hi-cap or not.

Most 10-round mag springs will probably outlive you, if they're in factory mags.

You may NEVER have to replace a recoil spring, but you probably WILL have to replace mag springs. (Note: the springs in hi-cap mags are the same springs that are used in the 10-round mags; guess which ones wear out faster? Answer: the same ones that must lift more rounds and must be compressed more completely, when loaded.)

Heavier recoil springs are called for when your spent casings start going into orbit, or you can't find your own brass to reload. For a 9mm gun, a 12-14 lb spring with factory loads will do the job, anything heavier just makes it harder to rack the slide. (I use BHP springs, as noted below.)

Recoil springs get replaced far more frequently than needed, and often with a thought to using heavier springs to SAVE the gun's frame. It's a misplaced attempt at "saving" the frame, as the frame is unlikely to be damaged by a weak recoil spring, or saved by a heavier one. The slide stop, however, can be damaged by a much heavier spring -- as the extra force of the slide slamming BACK as it returns must be stopped by that "slide stop."

(Note: when the slide's going back, both the recoil spring AND the hammer spring are retarding the slide. With hotter loads, some of the extra force is stored in a stronger recoil spring, some is used to cock the hammer for the next shot, and some just goes into the frame, your hand and arm. When any of the extra force is stored in the recoil spring, it comes back onto/into the gun when slide is stopped by slide stop as the slide closes.)

Consider using the Browning Hi-Power recoil springs; they are physically and mechanically much more like the factory springs than the WITNESS springs that Wolff sends when you order CZ replacement recoil springs from Wolff. In the last year or two, Wolff has begun offering much lighter recoil springs for the BHP, and now they're better matches for CZs. (Several years back, the lightest available was 18 lbs., and a variable that was lighter.)

A lighter hammer spring can sometimes work like a low-priced hammer job, as it will make the trigger seem better. Just don't go too light -- as you may find that the primer won't always go bang. Experiment with a Wolff calibration package, which has several weights. Remember that a lighter hammer spring also means less resistance for the slide, as it comes back, so a slightly heavier recoil spring MAY be in order if you install a lighter hammer spring.

CZ did have a bad batch of trigger springs a few years back, but they should have replaced all of those. Those come from CZ only.

The extra-strength firing pin spring you get when you order a new recoil spring can be used, but it's generally not needed. That "extra strength" spring was developed way back when "firing pin safeties" were not widely used, and an extra-strength firing pin spring was meant to prevent "inertial" movement of the firing pin when the recoil spring was made stronger. Replace the firing pin spring if you want, it won't hurt anything. I generally don't do it.

The other small springs like the slide stop spring, or the small springs in the sear cage have to be ordered from CZ. All the rest: recoil, mag, hammer, extractor, can be ordered from Wolff Springs (www.gunsprings.com).

[chris in va]

Good point about the lighter hammer spring offering less resistance Walt. Didn't think about that.