SA Milspec

[Marquezj16]

This is my first 1911 and I'm learning along the way. It's been accurate and realiable for me. For those who own a 1911, what "do it yourself" upgrades have you done to yours to improve the trigger and/or function.

[Hardcase]

I've done nothing to mine. It's worked flawlessly from day one. I figure that if it ain't broke, I'm not going to fix it.

[lee n. field]

This is my first 1911 and I'm learning along the way. It's been accurate and realiable for me. For those who own a 1911, what "do it yourself" upgrades have you done to yours to improve the trigger and/or function.

How many rounds down the tube so far?

If less than 1000, I'm thinking, don't customize for a while yet.

[WVsig]

I personally do only minor cosmetic things or minor repairs to most of mine myself. I have changed grips, change springs, replace firing pins, mainspring tweaks, extractor adjustments, mainspring housings and even swapped a thumb safety or two but most of the real tunning I leave to a gunsmith.

I do not really enjoy that aspect of owning 1911s and I get a very good price from my go to guy on parts and discount of labor so it costs me not much more than the parts would cost me on my own.

I don't have a sight pusher so I don't touch those either. LOL

If you are looking to do your own work get a hold of the Jerry Kuhnhausen Colt 1911 shop manual a set of punches, a set of stones, a sear jig and a set of calibers. If you are into it and are patient and do not mind the ocassional rebuying of buggered parts you can change out almost anything.

All that said shade tree or table top gunsmithing ruins more 1911s than anything else.

[g.willikers]

Assuming that you have studied the design, checked the articles at the 1911 forums, watched the how tos on youtube and even splurged for the service and Kuhnhausen manuals, what exactly does your gun seem to need?
Does the trigger have a lot of creep?
Is it too heavy a pull?
Is the let off vague?
Is the gun picky as to ammo?
Something else not up to par?

[Marquezj16]

How many rounds down the tube so far?

I'm up to about 2k so far.


Does the trigger have a lot of creep?
Is it too heavy a pull?
Is the let off vague?
Is the gun picky as to ammo?
Something else not up to par?

I'd like to make the trigger smoother and lighter in pull.
It's not picky with ammo and I've shot 185 HP, 200 HP, 230 (FMJ RN/FN, HP) factory and hand loads. Pretty accurate when I do my part. Zero problems. I'd like to just change some parts that would maybe improve it's function.

[HKGuns]

I only did two things. I changed the rear sight because the three dot sighting system on this platform is different than my HK's. I replaced the rear sight with one that doesn't have the white dots, so I'm not trying to line up the dots like I do on my HK pistols. The second thing I did was replace the grips. You can see in this picture where I had the rear sight reversed until I received the new rear sight.

Altamont makes some swell grips.

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p865700750-5.jpg

[g.willikers]

Part way down this page is The Poor Man's Trigger Job:
http://m1911.org/full_technic.htm

[Marquezj16]

I was thinking of changing grips (Pachmayr) and a guide rod (Wilson Combat).
I don't know if I'll like the grips but it's not an expensive swap and it's not permanent. I'm curious as to what full length guide rod would do for function.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75472&stc=1&d=1321535308

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75473&stc=1&d=1321535308

[Dino.]

I like the grips you have better than the Pachmayrs.
As for the full legnth guide rod ... IMO, the only thing it would do is maybe add a little weight to help control muzzle flip, but nothing significant. Again, my opinion.

If it were my MilSpec, I'd probably install a match trigger, hammer, and beavertail grip.

JMO

BTW, that's a beautiful gun. :)

[Marquezj16]

@Dino - any suggestions for trigger, hammer and beavertail grip?

I was also thinking of changing out the recoil spring to 17 or 18.5 lbs...

[WVsig]

@Dino - any suggestions for trigger, hammer and beavertail grip?

I was also thinking of changing out the recoil spring to 17 or 18.5 lbs...


Just about any trigger will work. If you are going to replace the hammer I would get a C&S drop in hammer sear disconnector set. The anle on these are already cut and require just a small amount of prep work in get just right.

The beavertail is going to depend on the actual radius of you gun. If it is off it may require machining which will require refinishing. Again look for "drop in" parts. I personally like Ed Brown beavertails.

[Don P]

Polish the feed ramp, grips, ambi-mag release, swap out the main spring housing, grip safety, thumb safety, and slide stop lever to SS parts. Gives the parkerized pistol a nice look in my opinion.
Photos are before the ambi mag release was installed

[Marquezj16]

@DonP - Nice looking pistol. I agree the SS parts do give it a nice touch.

I know a lot of people talk about polishing the feed ramps. Is this necessary if your pistol is functioning 100%?

[WVsig]

I know a lot of people talk about polishing the feed ramps. Is this necessary if your pistol is functioning 100%?


It is not necessary and IMHO again more people damage their pistol by polishing it too much and changing the angle.

Again unless you know what you are doing you will end up bubbaing your pistol.

[Don P]

I know a lot of people talk about polishing the feed ramps. Is this necessary if your pistol is functioning 100%?

To answer your question no. As far as polishing the ramp, just a little white rubbing compound or even tooth paste on a rag and use your finger. Using the before mentioned method you would have to rub for years before you removed enough metal to change the feed ramp angle or damaged it.

[Marquezj16]

@HKGuns - for some reason I did not see the picture of your 1911 until now. Nice. Like the grips.

@DonP - sounds easy enough. Probably won't be doing it though.

@WVSig - I'm looking more at drop in parts. So not too much bubba smithing. At least not yet.

[Marquezj16]

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71313&d=1308446059

[Don P]

I'm looking more at drop in parts. So not too much bubba smithing. At least not yet.
Some small parts will drop in. Most do not "drop in" grip safety, thumb safety to mention a few may or may not need to be fitted along with the barrel. If you plan on doing some work these 2 books are a must Jerry Kuhnhausen Volume 1 and 2. Volume 1 is loaded with all you could possibly need.

[Marquezj16]

Thanks, I was looking at getting Vol 1. trying to find one at local bookstore so I don't have to order. Also I have been watching a lot of the Brownell's videos and some others. Just taking in the information before I get started.

[bitttorrrent]

Are happy with your Mil spec choice.

Where is it compared in price to the loaded, range officer and of course my someday goal of a trp?

just curious if you are good with yours or wished you have moved up a notch. Don't get me wrong, I am all for a good solid not-expensive 1911 for me to see what all the extra things really do.

[Marquezj16]

@bitttorrent - Yes very happy with mine. I can't exactly recall whether mine cost $599 or $649. I know that was cheaper than the loaded at a different store. I feel good with mine as it is my first. I just like to tinker and I think 1911s have the after market items to customize it a little or a lot based on what you want.

[WVsig]

To answer your question no. As far as polishing the ramp, just a little white rubbing compound or even tooth paste on a rag and use your finger. Using the before mentioned method you would have to rub for years before you removed enough metal to change the feed ramp angle or damaged it.


I agree the method you are describing would take a lifetime to damage the angle of the ramp but how many people go straight to the dremel. :cool: People bugger their guns all the time by polishing this polishing that.

I'm looking more at drop in parts. So not too much bubba smithing. At least not yet.

Even "drop in" parts requires some fitting. The point I am trying to hammer home is that unless you are familar with the platform, its specs and how it functions making changes too often takes 100% functioning pistol and turns it into a bubba.

As Don P stated things like thumb safeties & grip safeties are not drop in. Doing your own trigger job without a good understanding of the sear and hammer spec and engagement again is a perfect way to destory a part.

It is not that one cannot do these things but it requires more knowledge than a lot of people assume.

[Marquezj16]

Got your message loud and clear. Thanks.

[WVsig]

Got your message loud and clear. Thanks.

I have a question for you. Do you routinely detail strip your SA to the frame? Are you good at it and can you do it from memory? To me this is the first step and one should be able to dissasemble the gun to the frame without issue before attempting any modifications. If you can do this then get the Kuhnhausen manuals. MidwayUSA sells paperback versions for about $25 a book. They are a solid reference tool.

If not practice and then get the books.

Take your time and do it right.

[Marquezj16]

Will do. thanks.

[Casimer]

I can recommend the C&S 'Trigger Pull Sets' as well. They're pre-fitted, polished, and tested on a Series 70 frame and then heat treated. I've installed them on a Mil Spec and a Sistema. Neither required any fitting on my part - though you shouldn't count on that.

Fitting an oversized trigger is another relatively easy upgrade that will produce a noticeable improvement on a stock Mil Spec.

Factory Mil Specs are notorious for very heavy triggers that are typically a little rough. I suspect that SA recognizes that many Mil Spec buyers are intending to upgrade the pistol in any case, and so doesn't bother putting much effort into the set-up of the trigger.

[bitttorrrent]

Does look pretty nice. I think the only thing that I would be centering on is the front strap I believe stippling.

Not sure if needed but I do really like that same effect on my polymer frame.


But all depends on upper end of price and the Mil Spec looks pretty good.

[Marquezj16]

I disassembled it down to the frame. Man, stuff get's in there. It took me a good bit of time as I was making sure I remember each step and sometimes putting things back in after removing them to make sure I got it right before moving on to the next step.

Cleaned everything and light oil before reassemby. Things went pretty smoothly. Functioned check both safety and trigger. It's all good.

Now I know this does not make me an expert so I will be taking it slow with any parts that I change out.

[Don P]

Thanks, I was looking at getting Vol 1. trying to find one at local bookstore so I don't have to order. Also I have been watching a lot of the Brownell's videos and some others. Just taking in the information before I get started

Brownell's or Midway. When I asked Barnes & Noble they looked at my like I had 3 heads. I could not find any book store carrying the books. You will find most gun books like the spoke about are only carried by Brownell's and Midway

[WVsig]

Brownell's or Midway. When I asked Barnes & Noble they looked at my like I had 3 heads. I could not find any book store carrying the books. You will find most gun books like the spoke about are only carried by Brownell's and Midway


The current printings appear to be from a small run printer. It is IIRC what they call a perfect bound book. They are limited runs and I think they send them mainly to gun oriented retailers like MidwayUSA.

[Marquezj16]

I guess I will be ordering one. thanks for the info.