Build vs. Buy?

[Spartan745]

Got a question. Been trying to write this but it got too long winded. I want to get an AR-15. Not sure if I want to build one or buy one. I want the gun as a SHTF/WROL/End of the World gun. Meaning I want it to be accurate and durable. I know I could get an AK, but I plan on getting that too. I don't want to spend a lot of money but I don't want to spare quality just for a lower price tag.
Any suggestions? I'm either planning on building a RRA rifle with 16" barrel w/ Wylde chamber or save up and buy a KAC SR-15.

[essohbe]

Unless you're really resourceful, it's been my experience that building one with all separate parts is just about the same price for me as it is to just get already pieced together upper and lowers. Maybe put the FCG in yourself but for the most part there's no major price difference unless you are using something like Blackthorne's factory-reject parts (or whatever they are).

You are keeping this gun and probably running it a little hard so consider barrel specs and gas system. RRA would probably be fine unless you want to get crazy and spend thousand$ on it but if you buy a complete rifle the tax is ridiculous. Get at least a lower transferred to you and go from there.

I know allot of people dig that Wylde chamber too. I got the SAM-R chambering (has something to do with Marine marksmen). Probably the same idea as the Wylde.

[Spartan745]

In terms of price I'd say that I'd like to pay ~$1500 for a decent AR system either built or purchased. This does not generally include a stock, grip, or back up sights. I would make a few exceptions though, so long as the core parts are better (bolt, barrel, gas system etc.) not just fancier bells and whistles.

By the way I already know what I want for AR furniture:

Magpul ACS Stock
Magpul MIAD Grip
Magpul MBUS Sights
Magpul XTM Rail Covers

See the theme? If you guys have recommendations for either entire guns, AR parts or AR furniture alternatives to what I just mentioned, please let me know.

[tirod]

Building vs buying means understanding that you could do either more cheaply. It really depends on what you intend it to do. For the use described, a $599 Bargain Bin gun would get it done. It may not seem like it offers the reliability you want, tho.

Problem is, the gun is already being built backwards. Choosing the furniture before the caliber is getting the cart before the horse. Taking the concept of self defense at the end of the world, look at what has already happened in disasters or uncertain economic times. Military surplus dried up, that ammo and guns became scarce, and in some localities, authorities went out of their way to confiscate firearms.

I found .30-30, .30-06, and 12 gauge on the shelf throughout the entire "Obamascare." 5.56, .308, and 9mm was non-existent. So, for actual use, avoid the military calibers. It will be hard to get ammo from those sources. And the ridiculous notion it will be laying around is BS. Soldiers don't leave their buddies behind, and they cross load the ammo to resupply their needs. Armories have none, nada, zip. If YOU don't have sufficient stock and stay put to protect it, wandering about means whatever caliber you have on you is about all you'll need.

As for an AR, the better plan is to build it knowing what you will actually do with it all the time life stays normal. That's what you'll be doing anyway, practicing to maintain skills and rotate the ammo stock. Consider reloading, as that means you will be saving money.

Pick the caliber - AR's offer more than 5.56, much much more, then that caliber and use will determine what barrel length, which sets the gas length. Then what type upper, likely a railed A3, to support the optic of choice, likely a red dot. THEN furniture. Standard mil issue A1 or 2 buttstock will do, size a grip to fit - and avoid the multipiece ones, as all the little pieces do nothing to improve accuracy. An A1 or A2 grip is all you need and dirt cheap. Handguards are all you need - accuracy comes from a good barrel, and milspec ammo is only good for 2MOA, which is all that is needed. A free float won't add accuracy, it just keeps the sling from pulling the point of impact around. If you're really scrambling, a sling will hang you up, and the Infantry School had us delete it in the field. Try that and see for yourself - combat use of the rifle isn't a three gun range competition. Murphy and the worst case happen every minute.

What you will have as a result is going to be a lot more like what the Army issues for real combat, not a fantasy gun build. And that is still the M16A2 pattern - or A4 in the Marines. About all that gets added might be a Norgon ambi release. Most of the soldiers using the M4 keep the quad rail empty to avoid dead weight. Even KAC has said it's not needed for civilian use. The .Gov adopted it because too many different users and gear were involved, it's an institutional compromise. Consider: it does nothing more than act as a light mount - a very expensive $150-300 light mount. That is all.

Start from square one, pick the caliber and barrel length, then move to the rest of the gun in sequence, and it becomes something you can actually use well for your intended purposes. If there is anything to note about the choice of Magpul, it has to be asked, why aren't PMags the first choice? They have far more to offer in reliable function than any of the furniture options already listed. It makes it seem the direction of the guns is for looks more than actual shooting.

[wingman]

All depends on need, how it is to be used 100-200 monthly or thousands.

I picked a commerical built with life time warranty honestly doubt I would put 5000 rounds through it and I seriously doubt many people actually fire more then 5-10K during ownership of any firearm although I understand there are exceptions.

[mukibetser]

Let's be honest, for your stated purpose the gun will sit in a safe, taken to the range occasionally, and almost certainly never actually used in self defense outside your home. After all, the "SHTF" scenario is possible but highly unlikely. You won't be rolling in the dirt in Afghanistan or clearing houses with it. For that purpose, you absolutely don't "need" to spend $1500 and you don't "need" all of that magpul furniture. An off the shelf S&W M&P 15 sport for $600 or a Stag for a few hundred more would be more than adequate. But you are willing to spend more to have some upgrades and doo dads, which is fine. Seems to me that the bottom line is, the reason to build your AR is because you will enjoy it, not to save a few bucks.

[Spartan745]

@tirod I understand that choosing trivial stuff life furniture really should be the last thing I do. I will certainly buy furniture that suits best for the gun that I have as opposed to the other way around. I was just saying that's what I think I'd most likely use, I think it's fair to say that if for whatever reason the accessories that I have on my AR isn't working, I won't plan on using it again.

I totally forgot, but yeah I do intend on using Magpul PMags. It was late so forgive me for forgetting to put that in there :)

Also what caliber's would you recommend?

@wingman What companies have a lifetime warranty? I probably should have done this, but I haven't really read up or studied any manufacturer's warrant on their firearms.

@mukibester For the most part you're right in normal circumstances it's just going to be a gun I'll enjoy at the range. However, for me it's also more of mental insurance. While I'm sure that S&W, Stag, Bushmaster, etc. etc. make very good ARs, I come from a family that's more "buy the best you can get" than "buy what's practical" even though I buy more practically than my family does (my mom buys a lot of high end fashion, never knock off stuff. Dad (passed away sept. 08) didn't normally buy a lot of stuff, but he'd splurge on really nice golf clubs). So as far as the idea of building an RRA or KAC AR, it's only because I've heard that their quality exceeds some of their competitors