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View Full Version : Should you feel the slide run over the disconnector of a 1911?


winter5470
May 7, 2010, 06:19 AM
I purchased my first 1911 last month. It is on its way back to the manufacturer for the second time for failure to feed. When I purchased the gun, the slide would catch as it contacted the disconnector. It was so bad if you racked slowly the slide would stick there and not move. Now it is a minor bump but I am still having a few failures to feed. Other 1911's I have tested have no perceptable feel as the slide hits and runs over the disconnector. I am convinced it is enough to slow the slide down and cause my problems. Any thoughts?

SmokyBaer
May 7, 2010, 06:45 AM
I feel the disconnector on all mine. More likely to be ammo or magazine related. I had one a while back that just needed it's ramp shined up. It would run FMJs fine but a hollow point would choke on some small machine lines on the ramp. A little shine, problem went away. BTW.. don't even think about shining your on ramp if you have an alloy frame.

You really didn't say but if you have the slide locked back and load a fresh mag, will it feed when you release the slide?? or is the problem half way thru the magazine??

Another idea popped into me head about the firing pin block if you have one. Since you didn't say which brand you have, I can only generalize. If you have a Kimber or another brand which uses a series 80 style block, the button/lever may be riding out to far and hitting prior to ramping the next round. Heard of that happening.

Hope that helps a little.

ScottRiqui
May 7, 2010, 07:08 AM
BTW.. don't even think about shining your on ramp if you have an alloy frame.

The feed ramp is part of the barrel, right? I'm confused as to why the composition of the frame would make a difference as to whether or not you should polish the feed ramp. What am I missing?

SmokyBaer
May 7, 2010, 07:57 AM
Yep... I didn't clarify... Yes, the barrel ramp can be opened up if that's an issue but most all the ones I've seen are already pretty wide. Just reading the OPs post I thought it was hanging before it got to the barrel.

The frame ramp is the one I'm referring to. If you polish on an alloy frame, it will eat WAY fast and the hardened surface will be gone. At least, that's what I've always been instructed.

Here's a pic of the last ramp I done and has performed flawlessly since...
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o95/hobunchastuf/My%20Gun%20Pics/Les%20Baer%20Customs/MVC-050X.jpg

Izzy4700
May 21, 2010, 07:36 PM
Have Kimber, noticed it hanging up also. Lube the disconnect, not hanging up now.

James K
May 21, 2010, 07:51 PM
The disconnector should never stick up enough to stop slide movement, though a slight hitch may be just noticeable. Look at the disconnector from the side. If the part of the disconnector that is not sloped sticks up above the frame, get a new disconnector. Also, if the front corner of the slide (firing pin tunnel) is sharp, break the angle with a file or stone.

Just another example of the ignorance of specs by some manufacturers.

Jim

DBAR
May 22, 2010, 01:03 PM
I purchased my first 1911 last month. It is on its way back to the manufacturer for the second time for failure to feed. When I purchased the gun, the slide would catch as it contacted the disconnector. It was so bad if you racked slowly the slide would stick there and not move. Now it is a minor bump but I am still having a few failures to feed. Other 1911's I have tested have no perceptable feel as the slide hits and runs over the disconnector. I am convinced it is enough to slow the slide down and cause my problems. Any thoughts?

I think if the disconnector was slowing down the slide, you'd have other issues on your hands. I don't know what kind of 1911 you have, and I don't know that it matters.

You could be limp wristing while you shoot it, and please don't take any offense to that. A lot of people do it, and after some practice the problem goes away. It could be magazine related as well, and yet another thing it could be is the extractor. You may have to tune the extractor. This is the only problem I ever had with my Kimber. I changed the extractor, and gave it a little bend (it's tough, and takes a few trys to get it right), and it's worked ever since. You could polish the ramp part of the barrel, and frame, but I don't know how much that's really going to help. It sure wouldn't hurt anything. Have you changed the recoil spring? I know a lot of people preach not to change the recoil spring, but I put in a 16 or 18 lb recoil spring from Wolff, and it works fine.

Good Luck,
DBAR