Grease instead of Oil?

[OcSpeed]

I'm thinking of trying out grease instead of oil on my 1911's slide rails, any recomendations?

[David the Gnome]

Slide Glide, it's pretty amazing stuff.

http://www.doublealpha.biz/shop/images/slide_glide.jpg

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html


I need to find a better applicator than what I've been using (a toothpick). I think a small syringe of some sort would work awesome with this stuff.

[10-96]

I tried a synthetic firearm grease that came with some accessory I bought about 4 yrs ago. Sorry I cant remember the name, but it were in a little black plastic aqueeze tube. I found that it seemed to stay around and present longer than oils, but it also collected more crud (lint, carbon, dirt, etc) from evryday carry, use, and shooting. Maybe I used too much, I don't know- but I eventually went back to oil. If nothing else- it encourages me to inspect and clean my firearm a little more regularly (as I should).

At work, we've been using Kano Lab's Microil (or is it Mikroil?) for about two years now- anyhow, it's thier precision gauge and instrument oil. I really like that stuff compared to Rem Oil. I think it's time I ordered some for home.

I don't know if your shooter is stainless or blued- but the best way to evaluate the difference between oil and grease is to get a small amount and give it a shot yourself. For you, they both may have great attributes or it may leave you with a pretty much cut and dry decision.

[Chris_B]

From a technical standpoint, grease should be used on things that slide linearly. In practice, some greases can actually cause a pistol slide to drag a little. I tried Shooter's Choice Gold on my P226, wouldn't cycle the action properly, fail to feed left and right, failure to hold the slide open on last round, etc. Switched to Lubriplate, 100% perfect function again

Only issue I have with grease is applying it. It's inconvenient; a syringe is neat and easy but to be honest, I find it a PITA all around

I'll have to try slide glide out, its been recommended to me but I haven't used it yet.

[LHB1]

It all depends on the viscosity. If grease is too thick it can interfere with proper slide/pistol functioning, especially in colder temperatures. Very light grease works for some but I stick with oil throughout on all my guns (1911's, revolvers, rifles, and shotguns). Oils that work well for me are:
- Weapon Shield
- Wilson UltimaLube
- FP-10

[Magyar]

RIG +P and at times I use a Dupont 100% Teflon grease when I can acquire it at a decent price. Using a grease in the hot SW is the only way IMHO..
If you're like most of us, you'll wind up with a multitude of various brands, good luck experimenting...:)

[HisSoldier]

Wilson's Ultima-Lube (http://www.wilsoncombat.com/a_ultimalube.asp) comes in a syringe, and if you see the video of the friction tests against other common oils you will be impressed. I know, snake oil salesmen, maybe, but it was pretty impressive.

The machine is a belt driven shaft with a hardened hub that they run a hardened steel friction pad against under the exact same load, the RPM looks like about 1500 maybe, I don't know.

Anyway, the pad smokes and squeals until it finally slips the belt and stops the hub, and they time each one to the stop. The Ultima-Lube won, of course!

I'm not going to say that they are straight forward in the presentation but I'm not going to say they weren't either.

[Sgt Pepper]

Ditto on the Rig +P. I use it on the rails when the weather is warm or hot (which is much of the year here in Texas). Don't use it when it gets cool or cold out. Inexpensive, easy to apply, and just flat works.

[Lurch37]

I've used Lubriplate for several years with great results.

[sholling]

I use Slide Glide Lite.

[Lavid2002]

agreed that grease can hold an action back if too much is applied. I prefer to dip my finger in some, wipe it between 2 fingers, apply, and wipe with a towel once, this leaves the perfect film. I love it I only use oil for the trigger group and springs : )

[phrogpilot]

I use Hoppes Gun Grease on the slide rails of all my semi autos. It comes in a tube and is very inexpensive; it stays put even after very long range sessons and I haven't had any build-up on it. I apply it with the end of a Q Tip which has had the cotton removed.

[R.Ph. 380]

I need to find a better applicator than what I've been using (a toothpick). I think a small syringe of some sort would work awesome with this stuff.

I use the small brush that Brian Enos provides when you buy the Slide Glide. Works great. May-be I had to buy it, too.

Bill

[DasFriek]

I use plain white lithium grease,it works well but i will be buying some Wilson grease when i get a chance to hot the shot that carries it.
Besides my rails i grease my barrel and lugs,bushing,and the grooves where the firing pin safety plunger and extractor are on a 1911.

[rbernie]

Berryhill's...

[Don P]

The only non-oil I'll use is the gold never seize like glock uses on my polymer pistols. All else get oiled

[Coltman 77]

I use Wilson Combat Ultima Lube Grease on the rails of my pistols and Ultima Lube grease for the rotating parts.

To get a good light coating of grease on the rails I use a small model airplane type paintbrush.

[LSP972]

How interesting. This the FOURTH forum I've seen this topic spring up on in the past few weeks.

I've been amazed at how many folks have "come out of the closet" and admitted that they have been using some sort of grease for YEARS. So I said, why not give it a try?

I've been using LubriPlate on my HK45C EDC pistol for almost a month now, with no ill effects; other than its a bit more messy of a clean-up after you shoot the weapon.

For me, the whole reason behind this is staying power. I carried a handgun professionally for almost 30 years, and have continued that daily ritual into retirement. One thing I found very early regarding semi-autos (we transitioned from revolvers in 1988) was that oil WILL eventually go away. The Sigs and S&Ws we were using then liked to be wet for reliable functioning. After a week or so of working out in the weather, regular old gun oil simply evaporated. Re-establishing the oil film on those pistols became a semi-daily routine.

Time passed; "better" lubricants appeared. When I found the Tetra product, about four years ago, I thought it was the ultimate. It has "staying power" far beyond anything else I've tried, including the vaunted Break-Free. IMO, that stuff is highly over-rated. The Tetra is still my first choice for a liquid lube.

But the grease provides an additional wear-reducing element that is appealing if you shoot your carry gun a lot. I do. It doesn't get that cold down here, so I'm not concerned about the "sluggishness" issue. I'm going to continue to use the LubriPlate, and watch the wear patterns on my barrel/slide.

The perennial question in matters such as these, of course, is: how much to use. The non-technical answer is... not much.:D

.

[Skans]

grease gets dirty very quickly. Attracts dirt. I don't like using it on anything other than my O/U shotgun - and even then, I still don't like it. I just don't see the point in using something that is unnecesarily messy.

[spacecoast]

When I clean I scrub the rails as well with solvent and a toothbrush, and then dry and re-oil. What would be the point of using anything but a little oil? Am I doing it wrong?

[Skans]

The only time I could see using grease is on a very old gun that is somewhat loose and rattles to keep the noise down. In fact, I'd think that greasing a new semi-auto that is rather tight could throw it out of spec.

[ostrobothnian]

http://www.gunslick.com/

[OcSpeed]

Thanks all, looks like I have a few options to try out... and more excuses to go shoot!

[azredhawk44]

White lithium grease, for automatic pistols and any linear surface on rifles.

Of course, I live in AZ. Cold temps aren't an issue unless I'm up high in the mountains and hunting in the fall or winter.

My revolvers don't get grease, though... they get oil. Just easier to apply.

[tightgrouper]

The only time I could see using grease is on a very old gun that is somewhat loose and rattles to keep the noise down. In fact, I'd think that greasing a new semi-auto that is rather tight could throw it out of spec.

wow!..would this 150yr old firearm have wheels and a platform?..sounds like you might need to ad some ball-bearings to that, as well as packing-grease.lol..just funnin.;)

I picked up my brand new Ruger P95 yesterday. Field stripped and gave it a thorough once over. I cleaned it as if I had just went through 250rds. Actually, I gave it more attention. I did leave the clear grease that Ruger generously applied to the slide rails and their contact points on the frame.
This is an extremely tight, brand new semi-auto. Though it's possible the grease ads an almost imeasurably minute amount of resistance. I wonder if oil would have greater or less resistance.

[spacecoast]

Though it's possible the grease ads an almost imeasurably minute amount of resistance.

I found quite a bit of difference between the factory grease and after cleaning/light oil with my (almost) new P95. Afterward it was much easier to line up the slide and frame marks for disassembly, the grease caused the slide to be a bit sticky. I don't know if it would have affected the cycling but there was definitely a noticeable difference before and after.

[LHB1]

Quote: "http://www.gunslick.com/"

Do you have trouble with the Gunslick during cold weather? Even in the moderate winter weather of Houston, I had trouble with Gunslick. It solidified into a hard substance and I had to remove it (with difficulty). I replaced it with a good oil and have had no further problems with any of my guns.

[tackdriver]

Lubriplate is the stuff! I have also used Hoppes gun grease on the other side of the spectrum with pretty good results -- sparingly on the 1911, but I lay it on on the Garand and M1 carbine.

[Magyar]

Do you have trouble with the Gunslick during cold weather? Even in the moderate winter weather of Houston, I had trouble with Gunslick. It solidified into a hard substance and I had to remove it (with difficulty).
This reminds me of another worthless product (I've got a bunch of them in my cleaning box, kind a like a box of worthless holsters) anyway, substitute Gunslick for a tube of Wilson's Ultilube grease. I need a "putty-knife" to remove the crap....Oh Bill, got me again with his products, like Shok-Buffs.:) My experience only, use at your own discretion...

[ZeSpectre]

Pretty good article on the topic
http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

[Skans]

So far, I haven't heard one good reason to use grease on your gun. I'd like to see a side-by-side picture of two semi-auto pistols; one that used grease for 100,000 rounds and one that didn't (just oil) for 100,000 rounds and observe the difference between the two weapons. Anything short of this seems to be a bunch of snake-oil (snake-grease) speculation.

[tightgrouper]

I found quite a bit of difference between the factory grease and after cleaning/light oil with my (almost) new P95. Afterward it was much easier to line up the slide and frame marks for disassembly, the grease caused the slide to be a bit sticky. I don't know if it would have affected the cycling but there was definitely a noticeable difference before and after.

yes. It took me a few [back & forths] to get the slide lined up. That grease could very well have added to that snug stiffness.
new/almost new...You can feel a difference between 1 test round and 500rds, though. I don't know if your gun had 50/500/2000rds, but the difference can be felt there after a few boxes. Then again, you felt an immediate difference in your gun. period.

I watched my slide finish wear on just oil only in under a thousand rounds. I'm gonna give a good grease a go. This slide is stainless, so, I don't have a finish to compare it to the other one, but...I'm gonna give it a shot.

[ZeSpectre]

So far, I haven't heard one good reason to use grease on your gun

Because grease tends to stay put on the rails of your carry gun whereas oil tends to migrate and get absorbed by your holster and/or your clothes (Especially in hotter climates). :D

[BlueTrain]

In my experience it isn't the oil itself but rather that too much oil was used in the first place. If it seems like oil is appearing everywhere after you have fired the gun a couple of times, there was too much of it. They tend to come like that when new, too, well oiled. So I've been using grease on the few guns myself.

But you don't use it just everywhere. You probably can't use it much of anywhere on a revolver and clearly you can't use it everywhere on other guns either. Unless you're putting your guns away for the season, don't use too much of whatever you use. And by the way, oil becomes gummy (at least some of it will), so it becomes a matter of picking the best stuff.

[crew]

I have found that using a clean new appplicator designed for women's makeup works great for getting a THIN layer of slide glide or similar grease spread onto the rails and similar spots on my firearms. No lint etc like what i used to get when using cotton swabs . Also, the foamy applicators dont absorb any grease and allow me to spread a layer out very sparingly. The pointy tip lets me get the grease well into the corners and edges especially on the slide.
see attached photo for the type I am talking about

[ZeSpectre]

Just as an FYI, I use a "Marinade Injector Syringe" stuffed with grease for application. I cut the tip of the "needle" off at an angle and it works great.

[Shane Tuttle]

I'm in the minority here and I don't know why. I use TetraGrease on my slides. Still have the same tube from over 10 years ago.

As for Lubriplate, I'd definitely recommend it also. I use this on camboxes on Pratt & Whitney's PT6 engines. The anti galling, anti-wear properties under load and extreme tempuratures is fantastic.

[JohnKSa]

I use oil for light lubrication and for corrosion protection/wipedown. For high-wear/high-friction areas I use a grease I make myself from Breakfree CLP and very fine moly powder. The powder helps the CLP stay where it belongs and if/when the CLP migrates away the moly powder provides an excellent dry lubricant.

It takes very tiny amounts to provide adequate lubrication and it isn't sticky so there's not much danger of it getting stiff in cold temperatures.

[John Clum]

+1 for TetraGrease. Climate around here is most always above freezing.

[johnbt]

I've been using grease on the rails for over 10 years. It doesn't run off. I've used about every kind of commonly found gun grease and even a couple of the name brand ones made for shotgun hinges.

I like the SIG grease that came with my X-5 TAC, and I'd buy some more but I haven't seen any for sale anywhere yet. Like I need more grease to go with the Shooter's Choice, Wilson, Lubriplate, TW25B, and all those others I accumulated over the years. I even tried Penn fishing reel grease, it worked.

John

[spacecoast]

clean new appplicator designed for women's makeup

I'll have to go through the makeup section and look for those the next time I'm at Wal-Mart... NOT :D

[spacecoast]

Then again, you felt an immediate difference in your gun.

Just to clarify... it was new when I did this (first cleaning) and felt a definite difference in the action of the slide. The gun is almost new now. :D The slide tension has definitely relaxed a bit more after the first 400 rounds.

[ostrobothnian]

LHB1,

Strange. I only use the gunslick oil and that is used sparingly. I use it on my M700 in 300 Weatherby hunting (wintertime) in the upper peninsula of Michigan and have not had any problems in the cold weather. Perhaps you got a defective lot?

[obiwan1]

Either EEZOX or Weapon Shield on the gun, Militec 1 grease or Tetra gun grease on contact parts/slide rails. Oils on the rails disappear rapidly, light coating of grease doesn't. Autos need to be "wet" and the grease does that.

[gglass]

Mobil 1 Synthetic grease will cost you about $6 for a tub and will last for decades. Unlike Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, the grease actually contains rust inhibitors, and I like the way grease stays where it is put.

Grease things that slide and oil things that turn.

[evan1293]

I use walmart high temperature wheel bearing grease for everything (glocks, sigs, 1911s, shotguns, ar-15s....). Often times I shoot my guns in high-round count classes. Ive never had a problem with lubrication or lubrication related stoppages. Wheel bearing grease stays where I put it for longer, unlike oil.

[drail]

I think grease went out about the same time as Brylcreem.:rolleyes:

[SAIGAFISH]

i like to rub just enough grease on my to put a very thin
whipping of grease on slides,bolts,and such.i use castrol
synthetic bearing grease. then a small squirt of rem oil
the combo is very slick and i believe a durable lubricant
for when you shoot a couple hundred or more rounds
in one sitting

[LHB1]

Quote: "Strange. I only use the gunslick oil and that is used sparingly."

Perhaps we are talking about two different products. The Gunslick I used came in a small silver tube and was black (similar to graphite or molybenum dissolved in a solvent). When applied, the solvent seemed to evaporate leaving a hard, crusty residue. This was about 20 years ago and the product may have changed since then. Glad the current product works OK for you.

[Stevie-Ray]

RIG +P, always.;)

[Dust Monkey]

I use either Wilsons grease or Tetra lube. Which ever I find first. And I have had nothing but great results with both.

Side note :

I have a secured garage work shop. It's not air conditioned nor heated but it is out of the elements and comfy to work in. I keep a firearm out there, at all times, secured. It's a stainless Beretta 92. I kept it out there for almost a year, wilsons lube on the pistol. I went and fired it the other day, 100 rounds, not one problem. I've had the same results with Tetra.

[Chris_B]

grease gets dirty very quickly. Attracts dirt. I don't like using it on anything other than my O/U shotgun - and even then, I still don't like it. I just don't see the point in using something that is unnecesarily messy.

No argument there. But...the US military specifically called out grease as a lubricant for the M1 Garand rifle. There are comparatively few oiling spots on that firearm