Removing Spray Paint from a rifle

[fortkevin2]

I bought a Marlin 45-70 from a member off this board a few months ago. He had spray painted a camoish paint job and I want to restore it to what it looked like from the factory.

My question is what do I use to remove the spray paint on the metal but not the blue finish underneath? same with the wood. Is that even possible? Thanks for the help. Here's what the rifle looks like now.... It makes you wonder how he shot the thing with the scope mounted so far back....

[banditt007]

i havent had a problem with brake cleaner harming the blueing and a bunch of paints will be eaten by it, so you could try that. however ask around i'm not sure if there are different types of blueing and if possibly one is effected by break cleaner.

[fisherman66]

Man, that's bizarre. I'd probably use paint stripper on the wood and remove it quickly (5 minutes or less) and do a warm sudsy bath afterward. I'm not so sure about the metal, but I would do the process separately.

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=42347&d=1234398608

[AK103K]

I've always used either Gun Scrubber and/or Hoppes. I also use a stiff tooth brush for the knooks and cranys, and fine steel wool for the metal. Just take your time and do a little at a time.


Do you know what kind of paint it is? Some paints, like Aluma Hyde II, etc, are not readily removed. Krylon and Testors comes off pretty easily, but it does take some work to get it all.

[fortkevin2]

I'm not sure because he doesn't know either. He said another officer that he works with did it. I'm assuming its either krylon or something similar.

I was cleaning a Cheap Mossberg plinkster with gun scrubber and it took the blueing right off.

This might sound odd but does anyone think it is possible to just remove teh paint but NOT the blueing? if i cant i might just redo the stock and paint over the blue to one solid color.

[AK103K]

If its blue, Gun Scrubber, brake cleaner, etc should not hurt it. If it does, its not bluing, its something else. I've taken paint off blued guns before and never had a problem. The blue stayed and was undamaged.

A lot of the cheaper .22's and other guns are actually painted, not blued.

If its Krylon, or something similar, Hoppes should also take it off, its just not as aggressive as the Gun Scrubber is and takes a little more work. The Hoppes usually wont bother plastics either. Gun Scrubber can eat up some plastics, and you'd be surprised at the parts on some guns that are plastic.

Take a little of each and try it out on a spot on the underside of the barrel. If its going to work, it wont take it long to start to remove the paint. If you do it lightly, you can get the top layer to start to come off, and that should give you an idea as to what will work best on that paint.

[fortkevin2]

awesome, I'll hopefully get a chance to start on it tomorrow. I'll post pics of the process if anyone is interested.

[THEZACHARIAS]

The local pawn shop here has a sonic cleaner of some kind they use for gun cleaning. Not sure if it would affect the bluing, but it should be a pretty cheap process if you can find someone equipped to do it (would probably be able to answer the qestion of bluing as well).

[45_Shooter]

I was cleaning a Cheap Mossberg plinkster with gun scrubber and it took the blueing right off.

That wasn't blueing. Hot blueing is not affected by any common solvent I'm aware of.

I'd use paint stripper or brake cleaner on the whole deal and plan on refinishing the wood parts. Good time to give it a nice oil finish.

[wpcexpert]

Origionally Thread Jacked. Started new topic.

Sorry guys, bad habit.

[Swampghost]

wpc, I can help you with the painting. Don't hijack this thread, start a new topic.

One of my paintjobs for the swamps.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d154/Teetorbilt/000_0102.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d154/Teetorbilt/000_0105.jpg

It's really not that difficult to DIY.

[fortkevin2]

Well I've spent several hours rubbing the paint off the barrel and receiver and have finally got all of it off.

Today I used paint stripper and removed the old paint from the stock. Will stain it when the weather gets warmer as its 40 deg. out right now.

This is my first time doing basically anything besides shooting and cleaning guns and its turning out great so far. I only paid $250 for the rifle and am enjoying making the marlin look nice again.

[CW-NH-HUNTER]

If you end up doing any sanding on the butt stock make sure that you have the butt plate installed so you dont round any of the edges. It helps keep everything straight for the finished product. Good luck let us know how it comes out in the end.

[goodspeed(TPF)]

Looking good. ;)

[3StrikesNC]

+1

Keep us posted.

[fortkevin2]

Well its getting there! I've completely(oops...missed a spot on the forearm) stripped the rifle of ALL of the old paint and reassembled it.

The stock and forearm have not yet been sanded or stained but I will get to that soon.

Here are a few pictures.. if anyone can tell me how to post them large and on the page instead of just links please let me know!

The pictures are not great, they were taken with a cell phone.
What do you guys think so far?

[Swampghost]

I'm really impressed! Nice job. Most painted rifles come with other finish problems and I'm as guilty as the next guy.

Congrats on your restoration!

[Catfishman]

Looks great. Damn it was ugly when you got it. I refinished a couple rifles a year ago for the first time. The first one came out looking too "blond" for my taste. So, I wiped a dark stain (minwax dark walnut 2716) on the second one and quickly wiped it off. This left little of the stain in the grain. I then put several coats of Minwax clear semigloss fast drying polyurethane. These were the only guns I've ever refinished but I was very happy with the results.

You have a beautiful gun there. After all that work I bet you'll keep it forever.

[fortkevin2]

thanks swampghost and catfishman!

It's coming along pretty well. For the price it was a darn good deal. At the time I was looking for any rifle basically for hunting/plinking and deer season. I posted an add looking for .270, 30 06, 45 70 etc etc. and got this good deal.

Mebanecop sold it to me... I think he has a guide gun for trade right now on this forum if anyone is interested.

The ONLY place the rifle has any problems are on the lever, seems like its got a little surface rust/pitting? or spots where it has a little rust on it but no big deal. I'm going to post better pictures with the camera tomorrow. Also on the receiver where Mebanecop was trying to get the screws out and dug into the receiver...will post pics of that tomorrow.

Does anyone know where I can get a recoil pad like the black one listed on marlin's website?
The rifle is from the early 90's and came with a dark brown one that to me doesn't look as nice as the one on the website.

Also any suggestions for glass? I'm a college student so money is tight so please keep that in mind when making recommendations. Thanks!

[Swampghost]

I put a Limbsaver grindable on on mine but I have a sander and 40 yrs. of woodworking skills behind me. It really hurt saying that.

[fortkevin2]

well I don't have experience working with wood but my dad and grandfather should be more than enough help. One's a 30+ year Mechanic and the other a retired electrical engineer. :D

This might be a dumb question but will the limbsaver affect the length of pull any? It's perfect right now for me.

Any suggestions on glass?

[Swampghost]

The Limbsaver will add 1" to your LOP. In 45-70 you'll probably want one, I would. Big round, little rifle.

Glass? I'd go with a scout setup. I've had enough stitches.

[fortkevin2]

Sanded the stock and have stained it with old English. Wasn't the best idea but it was all I had around the house.

What do you guys recommend for a clear coat? I want something that is strong and wont chip or crack when I hunt with it. Thanks again and will post pics of the progress later tonight.

[dm1333]

I only paid $250 for the rifle and am enjoying making the marlin look nice again.

You're killing me!

Have you thought about Tru Oil for a finish? A small bottle runs about $7 and should have enough to finish several stocks.

[fortkevin2]

dm1333- no joke, $250. Around here if you can find a used marlin 30 30 for that your doing GOOD. If you look at the top picture in the thread you will see what it looked like when i got it. I thought it might grow on me but it sure hasn't.

I haven't thought of tru-oil. As of now I have the stain on it but need a clear coat. would I have to strip that off to use the tru-oil or would that not be possible? Do you need a clear coat with tru-oil?

Sorry for all the ?'s. This is the first time I've done any wood finishing.

[OLNfan]

I would try using varnish remover, that should take off the paint and the varnish.. I spent a while removing all varnish so youll have to spend A very long time to get rid of everything, then after I removed the varnish I used very light sand paper then re apply varnish 1coat then a 2nd then a littel sanding then a 3rd coat.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j239/seaan_2006/003.jpg
I went from this to ...
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j239/seaan_2006/0042.jpg
tools you will need to remove the varnish would be I dont know what its called but it looks like this but mines shaped differently
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/55126_m.jpg
varnish, paint brushes, light sand paper.

[fortkevin2]

OLNFAN-I've already removed the paint etc. The first few pics of the Marlin were what it looked like when i first got it. The pics are of the gun further down the page are with the stock on after using paint stripper on the stock and gun scrubber on the blueing but NOT YET stained.

AS OF NOW i have stained the wood but need a clear coat that's tough. I'd rather not go to all the work AGAIN of removing the stain i used. Here's a pic of the stock now after 3 coats of Old English

[Evan Thomas]

That's some nice-looking wood...

What you put on as a clear coat sort of depends on what you want the final result to be: If you want an open-pored, natural look, go with an oil finish such as tung oil -- wipe it on, leave for a few minutes, remove the excess oil from the surface; let dry thoroughly (at least 24 hours), repeat. Stop when you like the way it looks. (I'd stay away from so-called "Danish oils" like Watco, which mostly aren't very good products.) If you want a more "varnished" appearance, use a spar (exterior) varnish, diluted with mineral spirits to about the consistency of milk. Wipe on a thin coat, but don't wipe it off again; let dry thoroughly, repeat.

I've also heard good things about Tru-oil, but haven't used it, myself.

As long as the stain you used is thoroughly dry before you apply the clear finish, you should be OK with any of these finishes. Once you're happy with the finish, let it cure for at least a week or two for a varnish, a few weeks for an oil finish, then, if you want, buff it out with 4/0 steel wool and a good paste wax.

[Swampghost]

I use marine varnishes from boat supply stores (not the pseudo stuff from the box stores) and seal all of the surfaces. Around here getting caught in a downpour is inevitable.

If your going for anything other than gloss finish save the flat, satin for the last coat and use gloss for the base coats. The flattening agent is usually zinc oxide and a buildup of coats containing it can start looking cloudy.

Don't forget a good brush. Cheap brushes will shed hair and just tick you off not to mention getting a crappy finish.

[fortkevin2]

well I think I screwed up. I put some tru-oil ON TOP of the Old English that I had done. :barf: Now it looks like the pic attached. I honestly want to go out and shoot the gun but I don't want to screw up all the hard work I've done.

My questions are:

1. Do I NEED a clear coat?

2.SHOULD I put a clear coat on?

3. If I don't put a clear coat and just leave it at 3 coats of Old English and 2 of tru-oil when I handle the rifle is the oil from my hands and everything else going to ruin how the stock looks? should I even worry about that?

With the Tru-Oil. I put it on very thick and let it dry for a few hours. After I did this some of it has soaked in and looks shiny in spots where the it dried and in others it's not. It looks like crap to me. :barf:

4.If I don't put a clear coat and leave it at it is now. Can I use wax and make it shinny? If this is possible at the stage I'm at now. How?

5. What do I do now?

I have not sanded or used steal wool but have some 000 in the shop. If I use this is it going to scratch or get embedded in the wood?

All the help is appreciated as this is my first time working with wood and stain and as its a nice rifle to me I want to do it right. Thanks again everyone and I'm sorry for all the questions...

[Evan Thomas]

With the Tru-Oil. I put it on very thick and let it dry for a few hours. After I did this some of it has soaked in and looks shiny in spots where the it dried and in others it's not. It looks like crap to me.

Do not panic.

The appearance in the photo above isn't that bad -- it's about what I'd expect after a couple of coats of oil on wood that's pretty open.

Putting it on very thick and letting it dry like that isn't the ideal way to do it, but your project probably isn't FUBAR. Before you stained the wood, did you sand it to a pretty fine grit, or did you apply the stain to the wood right after stripping? If you sanded it fairly coarsely (to P120 or 150), it'll take several coats of oil to seal the surface... and if you didn't sand at all, there may be some waxy or other residue on the surface, from the stripper, that could interfere with the finish, although I'd expect problems from that to have shown up when you stained the wood.

Is the surface sticky in some places, dry in others? If so, you should use mineral spirits and 4/0 steel wool to scrub off the sticky areas. (This will, once it's dry, reduce the shine still more.) Once you've done that, and let things dry for at least a couple of days -- until the surface feels dry, and no residue comes off on a cloth -- start applying more oil, in THIN coats. Let each coat dry before applying the next one.

In general, PATIENCE is the key to getting good results with wood finishing. Good surface preparation makes a huge difference, and it takes time. You need to sand, with successive grits, to at least P180 for a surface you're going to stain, to P320 or even higher if you're not using a stain, especially if you plan to use an oil finish. (DON'T go back and start sanding now -- you'll just cut through the stain, and then it will be FUBAR.) It's always better to apply several thin coats of any finish rather than one or two thick ones, and it's essential to let each coat dry before applying the next one -- otherwise you just end up with a goopy mess, or, with oil finishes, the second coat actually removes the first one, so that the surface never builds up.

I know you want to get the finishing over with and go shoot that nice rifle, but you're going to have it for years, right? :) So take the time at this stage to do it right, and resist the temptation to rush things...

[fortkevin2]

Vanya- first, thanks for the help and all the info. When I sanded the stock after stripping it I used 150 then 300? I THINK and then 600 so it's very smooth. It seems somewhat dry now and nothing comes off when wiped with a cloth. Should I use the steel wool now while it hasn't dried for days?

[DanThaMan]

Call me crazy but I think that paint job is beautiful

[Evan Thomas]

When I sanded the stock after stripping it I used 150 then 300? I THINK and then 600 so it's very smooth. It seems somewhat dry now and nothing comes off when wiped with a cloth. Should I use the steel wool now while it hasn't dried for days?

With oil, drier is always better. If there aren't gummy areas, you don't need to do the steel wool plus mineral spirits thing... Give it another day or two, and then, if the surface isn't tacky, go over it lightly with dry 4/0 steel wool, just to scuff the surface. Wipe it down with a tack cloth, and start applying the oil again: thin coats, wipe off the excess, allow a minimum of 24 hours' drying time, and scuff between coats. It may take 4-6 coats when you do it this way, but I think you'll be happy with the results.

Just remember, patience... ;)

[fortkevin2]

He did a decent job on it. He sanded out the checkering on it which in the long run worked out well because it was less work for me when I stripped the paint.

He got paint in the action which made it gummy and it was jamming up a little. I got that all worked out though :)

The pattern is cool but not on a Marlin 1895ss.

[shooter_john]

I'm usually a big fan of camo'd rifles but that thing was :barf:. (Though it apparently served the needs of the original owner)
What you've done with it is rather beatiful though... good job. Can't wait to see the finished product, that is pretty wood.

[fortkevin2]

Vanya-sounds good. As of now it seems dry but I'm going to wait a few days. Before I stained it I put the stock back on the gun and apparently got oil from my hands on it. Now you can see on the forearm where my fingers were.

My ? is can I just leave it at the oil finish? Do I HAVE to put a clear coat on it? I think it looks great how it is now. Thanks again

Shooter John- Thanks! To be honest I don't think he fired it once after it was done. From what he said another officer where he worked did it for him. If you look in the original pic i posted you can see how far the scope is mounted back. I doubt he shot it without it popping him in the face.

[fortkevin2]

I'm sure you guys are sick of seeing these but here are a few pictures BEFORE I sanded and stained the rifle.

[ndking1126]

Kevin, I guess I'll throw in my 2 cents...

Great job on bringing it back to her orignal finish. I kinda liked the camo job.. not that I would ever do that myself, but for some it's ok.

The one time I refinished a stock with Tru-oil, I made the first coat as absolutely thin as possible. Subsequent layers I kept thin, but I was not as diligent as my first coat. As previously mentioned, patience is good to let it dry. Personally, I'm not terribly thrilled with the clear coat that Tru-Oil gave me. Do you need a clear coat? I would give a big hearty "Yes" to that. FWIW, I have refinished one stock and one set of cabinets... so I'm not at all the xpert on the matter.

On mine, I took some 000 steelwool after each coat to keep it from being too shiny. I would describe the Tru-Oil finish as 1) reflective and 2) ontop of the wood. I was hoping more for the look of the finish being PART of the wood--a lot like your kitchen cabinets... you just see wood. You don't see wood and then a layer of reflective finish. Just my opinion though.

I am actually very impressed with your staining job, looked awesome.. I gave my cabinets a clear coat with an indoor/outdoor spar urethane that you could buy from your favorite big box home improvement store. I'm gonna give that a try on my next stock refinish as I was pretty impressed with it. It said for "high humidity" environments. I guess hot showers and rainy tree stands are covered!

Oh, and for the record, I got all the old finishing and staining off the stock with Easy Off oven cleaner. I know serious wood working people have dangerously high blood pressure spikes when they read that, but I had no problems with it and the wood came out looking great. And it was horrifically easy. Spray on, let sit about 20 minutes and spray off with water. (I know, another huge mistake!!) Repeat if necessary. And believe me, it will take off anything. I wore kitchen gloves to protect my hands, wrists and forearms from the Easy Off. The reason I went with this route is because I hate sanding my stocks. Once that wood is gone, you'll never get it back!! I did take 300 grit sandpaper (I think) and very very lightly removed some of the wood grain that has raised from the water bath.

[OLNfan]

HOLY that came out way better than I thought!! I apologise I must of read the thread wrong, glad to see you got everything under control congrats!!

[fortkevin2]

ndking1126-Thanks for the info. I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of the stock you did with tru-oil if you wouldn't mind. No big deal either way.

OLNfan-Thanks man, Can't wait to show you guys the finished product!

In a day or so I'm gonna take some 0000 steal wool to it and then do a clear coat. Anyone have any recommendations on a specific brand or product?
I'm gonna pick up a nice brush from Home depot tomorrow and would like to get it all at the same time if possible.

[fortkevin2]

now that I have the finish I want as far as stain goes... Can I go straight to wax to make it shine and act like a clear coat or do I need to put several coats of polyurethane on it? I just want the finish to be sealed.

Would this work to as the final step after staining the wood?
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_47260_425005000_425000000_425005000_425-5-0

[OLNfan]

I just get so stoked seeing it all cleaned up. I love lever action 45-70 cant wait to get another. Im glad theirs people out their like you to keep them lookin goood! Its a proud rifle, been around too long to have some one spray paint it. Whats your plans hunting wise with this beauty?

[fortkevin2]

OLNfan-thanks! I'm having a great time working on it and it's been a fun project so far. I can't wait to get it all done with and go shoot it at the range. When deer season comes back up later this year I'm planning on knocking a few down with it. :D

I went out a few times last year but didn't really know what I was doing, Just kinda set up my stand near the water and waited. Didn't get anything but I was on game land.

My dad and grandparents own about 20 acres in the Wake Forest area of NC. They see about 10 deer at a time so I'll be there this coming year and I'm sure I'll fill my tags. That's the plan at least.

I'll hopefully going to start reloading for it soon. The die's have been sold out everywhere I've looked. I'm going to start another thread when I get the rifle done and ask some questions about that.

Anyone have any idea if now since I've put the stain on (Old English and tru oil) can I just wax the stock with the stuff in the link 2 posts above??

[Evan Thomas]

is can I just leave it at the oil finish? Do I HAVE to put a clear coat on it? I think it looks great how it is now.

The oil finish IS the clear coat. If you like the way it looks, there's no reason to add more finish; if you want more of a film on the surface, keep adding thin coats of oil -- wipe on, wait a bit, wipe off. It's not a good idea to start switching finishes in midstream, so to speak -- not all are compatible (for instance, polyurethane really only adheres well to clean, bare wood). So you're committed to oil at this point. :)

If you want to wax the surface as a final step, WAIT to do this -- at least several weeks after you put on the last coat of oil. An oil finish that's dry to the touch isn't completely hard yet: it takes takes weeks to months for an oil finish to cure completely -- the molecules continue to cross-link, and it's a slow process. This is why finishes like polyurethane, lacquer, and 2-part, catalyzed varnishes are popular with commercial finishers: they cure quickly. But some of us think they never look as good as more traditional finishes that are more time-consuming to apply...

[Evan Thomas]

Aaaarrgh. :barf:

No, I don't think I'd recommend this stuff...

It's fantastically overpriced: $6.49 for 3 fl. oz. of a liquid wax is almost $35.00/pint. That's nuts. A good paste wax, Johnson's, Butcher's Wax, Briwax, will run around $15.00 for a 16 oz. can. Or you can use Kiwi shoe polish from one of those little flat cans, which will set you back a couple of bucks... and all of those are paste, not liquid, so you're getting more wax, less solvent, for the money.

And that Birchwood Casey stuff contains silicone :eek: :mad: -- which should never touch a good wood finish, especially one you might want to repair some day.

[fortkevin2]

Thanks! I was just getting an idea of what I needed but knew it was was overpriced for what it was. Where would I get Johnson's, Butcher's Wax, Briwax? I've seen shoe black and brown shoe polish but never clear? Sorry for all the questions.

[ndking1126]

I took a few pictures for you, but my laptop isn't cooperating. Everytime I plug the camera in and try to access the pictures, Windows Explorer crashes. This has happened before, but only randomly and turning it off and then back on fixes the problem.. except for tonight.

So I guess I'll tray again tomorrow. My photobucket account only has gun pictures on it, and this is defintely worth putting on. I should have done it sooner. Hopefully they portray what I'm seeing.. my photography skills are not up to par.

So you're committed to oil at this point.

Hopefully I wasn't misleading in my response. I agree with Vanya that the tru-oil is your clear coat. I did not mean to imply you need to add something ontop of the tru-oil you had put on. I answered the broad question of "Do I need a clear coat" with a broad answer of "yes". I was implying you still needed to add a clear point at that point in the game. For the record, if anything I say contradicts or seems to contradict with Vanya, be sure to listen to him! It's very clear he has much more experience than me.

[fortkevin2]

Well I'm signing up for a photo bucket account now so you guys can go in and see the pictures. My camera skills suck so I'm sorry ahead of time. The gun to me...doesn't look that great. Better than before but with how much time I've spend on it I'm disappointed. :mad: As of now I might just strip it back down and start over. You guys decide.

It's going to be my deer rifle so I'm sure it's gonna get the occasional scratch etc.


Edit:upon closer inspection the ONLY place I didn't get the old paint off the the lever. oops!

[ndking1126]

If you are considering redoing it, my recommendation would be to go buy a piece of 2x4 as similiar to your stock as possible(same wood, same color etc.) and try a few things out on it first. Try different finishes to see what each product looks like.

You said your dissappointed with the outcome, so I would say go for it. Redo it.. take pride in your rifle! On the other hand, it's a deer rifle and will get dinged and scratched. Maybe you wait for a couple scratches and then redo it? Just a thought.

I finished the cabinets first and learned a whole bunch. It was a very frustrating experience. When I started on the stock, it was so much better and easier because I had learned a lot from my first experience. I'm guessing you'll feel the same way if and when you decide to redo it.

Let us know!!

[fortkevin2]

ndking1113- I think I'm gonna put a few more coats on it and see what it looks like. Whats it gonna hurt? To me as of now it doesn't look like how i want it too. The quality of the my work is not what I would like to show off to other people. I showed my grandpa and dad today and they both immediately started pointing spots out that weren't right etc. So to me that is not acceptable how it is now. I'll give you guys updates asap.

I'm dreading stripping everything off....so much work and it's gonna need to be done again! :mad:

[fortkevin2]

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/114_6101Reduced.jpg
After playing with the settings


http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/114_6107copyreduced.jpg

[Evan Thomas]

Fortkevin, it looks to me like it's getting there... I see nothing wrong with it that a few more (thin, etc.) coats of oil won't fix. As you said, you might as well put on a few more coats before deciding to start over.

Really, don't panic and undo what you've done so far. Be patient, and take a couple of weeks to build it up to 4 - 6 coats of oil. Then, if you just don't like the way a good oil finish looks, you may want to start over; but I'm betting you'll be happy with it, if you take your time and complete what you've started.

If you are considering redoing it, my recommendation would be to go buy a piece of 2x4 as similiar to your stock as possible(same wood, same color etc.) and try a few things out on it first. Try different finishes to see what each product looks like.

This is really good advice... doesn't have to be a 2x4, though -- 1x4 or 5 works well -- and you have both sides to play with, of course. But a sample board of walnut, which is what your stock looks like, would be a good idea, if you do decide to redo it. It'll need the same surface preparation (same degree of sanding, etc.) as your stock -- mark off segments with tape, and keep notes of what you do to the different segments.

I'm not even gonna say anything else about wax now -- you're not there yet... :)

[csmsss]

I like the work you've done. I think it looks far better than the paint job that the rifle had when you received it.

I know nothing about tru-oil, but it looks like it did ok to me. I would also recommend anyone looking at refinishing to look into tung oil. I like tung oil because it dries hard, can be reapplied many times over to achieve the level of glossiness desired, and doesn't fade or yellow over time. It's also fairly inexpensive and forgiving, as are all oil finishes. One thing I don't like about finishes like lacquer, polyurethane, varnish and shellac is that, while protective, they also lay on top of the wood and can easily pick up any dust or dirt that happens to float by while the finish is drying. Once that happens, you have to either live with it or strip it and start over.

[ndking1126]

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/ndking2007/Stevens%20311A/Stockrefinish1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/ndking2007/Stevens%20311A/Stockrefinish2.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/ndking2007/Stevens%20311A/stockrefinish3.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd64/ndking2007/Stevens%20311A/stockrefinish4.jpg

Stain was darker than I orignally wanted, but it was all that was available at the time.

[fortkevin2]

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/114_6098redoreduced.jpg

[ndking1126]

I would have to have dial up if you are interested in this post!! :)

[fortkevin2]

dial up? as in internet connection?

[ndking1126]

Ah man, I was wanting to say "I would hate to have dialup internet"

Yeah, because of all the pictures, it would be really slow.

[fortkevin2]

Will be posting pictures later tonight or early tomorrow. I have 11 coats of true oil plus the original few coats of Old English. It's looking great!

[fortkevin2]

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/SDC10846.jpg

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/SDC10839.jpg

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/SDC10847.jpg

[fortkevin2]

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/SDC10855.jpg

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/SDC10838.jpg

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv350/Fortkevin2/Marlin189545-7012308.jpg

[fortkevin2]

The plan is to get this scope...

http://www.opticsplanet.net/bush-rs-bnr-713947.html

and this mount

http://www.xssights.com/store/scope.html

[ndking1126]

Haha! Excellent work.

Sounds to me like the first thick coat of tru-oil hadn't dried yet when you first stated your dissatisfaction with how it was turning out? (entry #30)

[fortkevin2]

ndking-Thanks! it's a fun project and now i'm trying to figure out what to do next.

THIN coats are the way to go. I put 11 of them on and it looks great. I might do a few more just cuz. What do yall think? I have pretty bad eyesight so I'm getting a scope. Any recommendations for a college student that doesn't have a ton of money?

[Mendocino]

Nicely done.

[CK_32]

Man that paint job was WILD :eek:
H must have been high thinking that paint job
was better looking than that finish you got there.

Looks good man. Good clean up job.

[olyinaz]

You might consider one of the new Redfield 2x7 scopes instead of a 3x9. The price is very good, they're made by Leupold, they've gotten good reviews (I've not seen one yet), and I think a 2x7 is more appropriate for that rifle:

OpticsPlanet.net - Redfield Revolution 2-7x33mm (http://www.opticsplanet.net/redfield-revolution-2-7x33mm-riflescope-matte-finish-4-plex-accu-range-reticle.html)

Cheers,
Oly

[shakes]

nice job on the rifle and the decision to throw those over under scope mounts away. I hate those things.