The Spiller & Burr Revolver

[Indian Outlaw]

Hi. Newbie here. ;)

I handled a used Spiller & Burr yesterday and liked it better than my Remington. It fit my hand well. Are the Pietta/Traditions S&Bs well made? Is there anything I should know before ordering one from Dixie?

Would love to see some pics of S&Bs!

Regards,
IO

[Cimarron Lawman]

Been thinking about 'em also, and have the same questions.

http://www.csarmory.org/spiller/page2.html

[pohill]

They're based on the Whitney revolvers. Mine is pretty old. Because they're brass, you should keep the loads fairly low (15 grs of black powder). Great guns.
http://i44.tinypic.com/20siqtx.jpg

[Hawg]

Dunno bout the Spiller and Burr but Pietta's 60 Colt's and 58 Remingtons are top notch.

[Riot Earp]

The originals have a higher hammer spur and a different grip. There is more room behind the triggerguard on the originals.

Some people say they're loud, for a .36 BP revolver.

http://vhs3.vahistorical.org/vhsimages/museum/objects/SpillerBurrRevolver.1990.100.13.jpg

[Musketeer]

I have an older Italian S&B clone which I got years ago second hand. The nipples are beat to snot and will not take a cap. Anybody know where to get them and what load to use. I have not shot the thing in 15 years.

[sundance44s]

My Pietta made Spiller & Burr is one of my favorite 36 cal .Revolvers .
http://i44.tinypic.com/286regy.jpg

[Fingers McGee]

I have an older Italian S&B clone which I got years ago second hand. The nipples are beat to snot and will not take a cap. Anybody know where to get them and what load to use. I have not shot the thing in 15 years.


Thunder Ridge http://www.thunder-ridge.com/ , or The Possible Shop http://www.possibleshop.com/ are good places to try. Size will depend on who manufactured your S&B. Brass framed; 15 grains of fffg would be a good load.

FM

[arcticap]

If I had a gun with a nipple of an unknown size, I would ask this outfit to help me because they're a specialty nipple manufacturer.

1-800-337-1243

http://blomquistpercussionworks.com/products.html

[Indian Outlaw]

Gonna get me one. :)

[Cimarron Lawman]

I'm going to order a pair. I'll keep the better of the two and send the other back. I might do something different and have Turnbull case harden the loading lever. Will also replace the nipples with Tresos.

[sundance44s]

Never have had a nipple problem with my Pietta made Spiller ...I use #10 Remington caps ...they fit like a glove ..no problems .

[Riot Earp]

Forgot to mention that the originals also have a smaller, rounder triggerguard.

So, for example, you can tell that pohill's gun is a replica by the large triggerguard, the grip shape/angle, and the low hammer spur.

Caveat Emptor: There are fake S&Bs out there.

[pohill]

you can tell that pohill's gun is a replica
Are you positive? Some knowledgeable people aren't. I'm still not 100% sure.

[Riot Earp]

Check out the two links posted above and study the originals very closely, paying particular attention to the triggerguards, hammers, and grips.

People say the best way to tell if a dollar bill is a counterfeit is to study the minutest details of the genuine article. Once you know the genuine front and back, the fake becomes easy to spot. The same goes for guns.

I'm 99% certain yours is a replica.

[pohill]

I'm more like 80% to 90% sure it's a replica, but...
I showed it to a BP shooter at my club and he handled it, examined it and said it was an original. Several others that have actually seen it and handled it are just not sure, like me. I even bought the book, THE CONFEDERATE BRASS-FRAMED COLT & WHITNEY by William Albaugh, and that added to the confusion due to the list of known serial numbers (mine is #82 which is unaccounted for). The only sure way would be to have the cylinder tested to see if it's made of iron, but I don't want to ruin the cylinder.
Hey, anything's possible.

http://i44.tinypic.com/16c8m74.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/3wl6t.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/t8oizn.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/nns03c.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/ezilow.jpg

[Hawg]

The CSA alone tells you it's not the real deal. The hammer, grips and trigger guard as mentioned are all different.

[pohill]

Here's the deal and it's real. I never asked if anyone thought my revolver was original, I just posted a pic of it. Never asked. If anyone thinks they can judge anything about any gun by looking at pics, hey, you must be good, you must be exceptional. Like I said, knowledgeable people have handled it and examined it and they're still not sure.
So, if it floats your boat, call it a replica.

[Cimarron Lawman]

Earp, you have an eye for detail. I hadn't noticed those differences until you pointed them out.

[Riot Earp]

For a truly expert opinion on the matter, I suggest that you send these pics to the people at www.damonmills.com, or to another premier antique gun site, and ask them to settle the issue. Then please post their response here on the board. I will be very surprised if they can't make a determination from pics alone.

[pohill]

The keys to this gun being identified are actually the cylinder and the topstrap. The original cylinders were made of iron, and the topstraps were very thin and thus took a beating. Other variations, trigger guard, etc, can be attributed to the manufacturing process and the different lcoations where they were made. Some were stamped Spiller & Burr, some CS, some CSA, some not stamped at all.
So, what if this cylinder is made of iron? Does that mean it's an original? Maybe, maybe not. But the topstrap is in great shape, it's not weak, or thin, so to me that is the key.
Is it a fake or a defarbed repro? I haven't seen too many, or any, fake Spiller & Burrs, but a few defarbed ones. Fake would imply a conscious effort to deceive on the part of the seller/owner.
Do I think it's an original? Like I said, I'm 80% to 90% sure it's not. Someday I might have an "expert" look at it, if I could determine what qualifies someone as an expert in regards to such an obscure revolver (unlike a Colt expert), but until then, it's not really an issue with me. But it is interesting.
Check out this gun - is it an original Whitney or a Palmetto repro?
http://i44.tinypic.com/2ag6l3n.jpg

[madcratebuilder]

Modern replicas of the Spiller and Burr have steel cylinders, that's the easiest way to tell that I know of. Some, not all of the originals had C.S. stamped on the. None had CSA that I am aware of.
This is a modern manufacter, maker unknown. It appears to be defarbed.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/spillerburr01.jpg

This one is original
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/sb01.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/sb02.jpg

[kwhi43]

Did anybody think about measuring the rate of twist in the barrels and compare?

[Hawg]

Check out this gun - is it an original Whitney or a Palmetto repro?

Original Whitney

[pohill]

Correct. But the store that sold it to me said it was a pre-Italian Whitney repro. They should have known better. Oh well, my gain.

[Hawg]

You gotta be kiddin. :eek:

[pohill]

I saw the gun in the case, saw the word "Whitney" on the tag, and asked to see it. I looked it over real well and couldn't see any Italian proofmarks or anything except "E.Whitney N.Haven" on the barrel. The salesman said it was a repro, and the reason there were no marks was that it was made in the 50's, a "pre-Italian repro." Price: $350.00
I think I melted my credit card when I ripped it out of my wallet.
Now, this store, Kittery Trading Post, has zillions of guns. My point is that this gun fooled their "experts" the wrong way.
I'd like to bring the Spiller & Burr to someone who can tell me more about it, but who? Who can you trust?

[Riot Earp]

I plan on attending the Baltimore Antique Arms Show in March. I doubt they will have a Spiller & Burr -- they are very rare -- but if they do, I want to handle it. I am guessing that the grip on the originals is more comfortable than the grip on the Italian replicas, but I want to know for sure. Insignificant things like this interest me for no good reason. :)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/RiotEarp/os1543p1-1.jpg

[Hawg]

I'd like to bring the Spiller & Burr to someone who can tell me more about it, but who? Who can you trust?

Send an email with good pics to [email protected] Rafe is a Civil War expert and dealer. He does appraisals for Antiques Roadshow. He knows his stuff. I know him personally and he'll tell you like it is whether you like it or not.

[Smokin_Gun]

I should have listened to you years ago about the S&B, I lke the B-gees out a mine. My favorite .36 and a C.S.A. ta boot (although I'd trade ya for that Yankee Whitney) Thanks to you I have my Rogers& Spencer from the Kittery, and got an ROA cause a you. They got along very well with my Remingtomn family. Sophia A. Uberti still being the Qeen of the house and well protected.
Original or not and I have one I am still not sure of myself (an 1862 Colt Pocket Police that I was told it an original) will post so any experts can verify or let me know the differance. I like the heck out of it and that's all that matters, but verification would be pleasing to the eyes. All numbers are in all the right places & matching including font and depth. SN & Address: SN96656
~ ADDRESS SAM L COLT HARTFORD CONN ~
SPILLER&BURR #78(SA0078)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/07DEC08/12-07-08_1316.jpg
COLT 1862 POCKET POLICE SN96656
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/14NOV08%20RangeCAS/11-16-08_1552.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/Colt%20Pocket%20Police/11-15-08_1433.jpg

The Serial Numbers I am told sometimes continued from one model Colt to another, (ex. 1861 Navy sn96655 to an 1862 Pocket Police sn96656. But I don't know so I am askin'... if anyone can trace this number to anything I'd apreciated you lettin' me know.

Thanks,

SG

[Hawg]

The last serial number listed for the pocket police is 47001 in 1873.

[Indian Outlaw]

I wonder if any S&Bs went out West after the war. I guess less than 1500 were made(?), but I want to think that at least a handful of S&B owners joined in the westward migration. Such a gun would have drawn attention from across a campfire, to say the least.

[Riot Earp]

This S&B was used in Indian Territory (Oklahoma) during the War and most likely remained there with its owner (General Cooper) after the cessation of hostilities.

http://www.civilwaralbum.com/indian/ohs6.htm

There is a minor error on the webpage, regarding the "frame" of the gun. I sent a short e-mail to the Oklahoma Historical Society.

[Cimarron Lawman]

Was gonna place an order today, but Dixie ain't open on Saturdays. Rats.

Aww ... ain't it cute?
http://www.chipengelmann.com/Grips/PaladinUK01.jpg

[pohill]

I'd like to visit the Oklahoma Historical Society. Nice pics.

I've been here - http://www.museumofcthistory.org/colt.asp
They have quite a few prototypes that Colt never put into production - a Dragoon with a top strap, a revolving .70 caliber rifle that was too big to carry, stuff like that. Original cased Patersons, original Walkers, etc. Great place.

But I've yet to see one of these in any museum (if anyone has one or knows someone who does, get in touch with me and we can swap info):
http://i41.tinypic.com/k9asn4.jpg

[Riot Earp]

On the subject of Whitneys ...

http://www.antiqueguns.com/auction/item.cgi?robles/robles-35931

[Cimarron Lawman]

I just read Colonel Burton's Spiller & Burr Revolver at a local college library. Production of the S&B was severely hampered by a dearth of skilled workmen. Also of note: during the final month of production, in July of 1864, nearly half of the 92 revolvers produced had steel (not iron) cylinders. They had received a shipment of steel sometime in June. A high percentage of twisted iron cylinders were failing during factory testing, and so they were eager to receive the steel shipment. Sherman's Army was encroaching on the city of Macon, however, and the S&B's workmen were called upon to help defend the city. This effectively ended production of the revolver.

[pohill]

I like the price of that Whitney - not as a buyer but as a seller.
They say that the Spiller & Burr was a Whitney copy but I never figured out what Whitney model they copied. I think mine is a 2nd Model, 3rd type. Here's a pic of the Whitney and the repro Spiller & Burr (yup, I called it a repro). Note the cylinders in the next pic (Whitney on right).
What's interesting about the Whitneys is that the frames are made of iron - that's why they turn that plumb brown (from what I've been told - I still can't tell steel from iron)
http://i42.tinypic.com/i2k5sw.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/69onys.jpg

This is the trigger guard before I cleaned it up. Note the Whitney Eagle off to the left of the numbers.
http://i43.tinypic.com/mhzw49.jpg

[arcticap]

I'm wondering if when the hammer is cocked on the Whitney,
it blocks out the front sight?
It sort of looks like it would in the auction pictures, or is the
uppermost tip of the hammer used for aiming?

http://www.antiqueguns.com/p6/536-03056.jpg

http://www.antiqueguns.com/auction/item.cgi?robles/robles-35931

[pohill]

There's a notch in the hammer on mine for sighting.
Here's mine being fired last summer:
http://i40.tinypic.com/1z3urnp.jpg

[Smokin_Gun]

pocket police is 47001 in 1873

Thanks Hawg, I can rest easy now ... the suspence was killin' me:cool:

Were'd ya find that, and can you run a trace on Euroarms/ASP or ASM SN 96656? Or tell me where I might look, I'm purdy seacrched out on that number.

Thanks Man,

SG

[Hawg]

You can look up Colt, Browning and Winchester numbers at proofhouse http://proofhouse.com/

Italian guns don't go by serial numbers, they go by date codes. You can look them up at bluebook. http://store.bluebookinc.com/Info/PDF/POWDER/MBPProofmarks.pdf

[Riot Earp]

The following is an excerpt from from http://www.7thtexas.info/english/arms_in_7th_texas.htm :

For infantry officers the standard armament consisted of a revolver and a saber. However, sources do not reveal which models were used in the 7th Texas, with one exception: In 1864 several of the regiment's officers purchased Spiller & Burr revolvers from the army's arsenal in Macon, Georgia. Spiller & Burr made a copy of the Whitney cal. .36 "Navy" revolver, with a brass frame. Generally speaking, though, Colt and Colt-copies were the most common revolvers in the CS army, and infantry officers tended to prefer cal. .36 ("Navy") models. Thus, chances are that some of these would have been used by officers in the 7th Texas Infantry.

Assuming that they weren't surrendered to Union troops, one or more of these S&Bs might have returned with their owners to Texas after the War.

Here's a Western short story that is relevant to this thread:
http://www.deltablues.net/west1.html

[Indian Outlaw]

Interesting that they preferred .36s over .44s

Nice story. An ivory-gripped Spiller & Burr'sie? A bit of narrative license there. Ha ha.

Cimmaron Lawman, you can order 24/7 from Dixie via their webpage. I hope they have at least three in stock (one fer me & two fer you).

[Riot Earp]

Real or replica?

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/RiotEarp/lf.jpg

[Indian Outlaw]

Real.

[sundance44s]

Nice

[Riot Earp]

Looks real, right?

It's a replica. At least, that's what Heritage Auction Galleries claimed. It sold for a whopping $51.00 U.S.

[Hawg]

In my opinion it's real. If it's a clone who made it?

[Riot Earp]

I'm not sure. The top of the barrel reads: "1861 E. Whitney .36 Caliber"

I want a replica but have heard that the Palmettos are junk. I wish Pietta and/or Uberti would make one. I think they would sell.

[Hawg]

It's a dang good looking replica whoever made it. The barrel on most Whitney's reads E. Whitney N. Haven.

[rommer25]

The treads on a nipple might tell you if it's real or copy: just a thought. My Spiller & Burr take the standard size, the same as my Remingtons. I don't know who made it. I brought it as a kit back around 1970. It cost me about $18.00.

[pohill]

I think mine might have been a kit, too. Does yours have any numbers or marks at all? This might sound dumb, but do imported gun kits, or the barrels in a kit, have to be proofed where they're made?

[rommer25]

The numbers 175 on the underside of the barrel and on the brass under the grips. The barrel had Black Powder Only and Cal. 36. As I recall, these were the only markings. I did replace the front sight with a blade one.

If you look real close, you can see a brass spacer I had to put behind the barrel a couple of years ago. I took the barrel off and when I put it back on, the sight was no longer 90 degrees to the frame. I had to but a small washer and file it to fit. It did not effect the accuracy.

[mykeal]

do imported gun kits, or the barrels in a kit, have to be proofed where they're made?
Yes. In fact, barrels are the only part proofed and they are proofed separately regardless of whether they're part of a kit or to be used in a finished gun.

[pohill]

Interesting. What about the cylinders?
Also, do you know if there is any formula for the size of a power charge used in a proofing? (over load or under load) I know it's like test driving a car, but do they do it around the neighborhood or on the Indy track?

[Hawg]

Original Remington Beals or clone?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/rebel727/Remingtons/100_0286.jpg

[sundance44s]

Original Remmie ./ or the grips are anyway .

[Riot Earp]

It ain't a Beals 'cause the hammer and loading lever web are wrong.

It looks like an old Uberti, from the 60's or early 70's, that's been beat up.

[madcratebuilder]

There are a lot of very well done fakes out there. So well that they fool the experts. Some that have required metallurgy testing to determine the age. With the price of some of these old guns there is a lot of incentive to build a fake. Looking at a 800X600 pixel photo on a monitor ain't going to tell you much, except obvious errors.

[madcratebuilder]

Original Remington Beals or clone?

The grip screw ferrule appears authentic. I think the rest may have an Italian accent. Like riot said the loading lever looks to be different. It's hard to tell comparing photos.

[Riot Earp]

Early Ubertis have that same ferrule. I owned an old one that looked just like that.

[Hawg]

It's a Rigarmi I bought new in 69. All but the loading lever anyway. I dunno what it fits I bought it from DGW on the off chance I could make it work as mine was broken. It took some fitting. It fits snug against the barrel in the rear and has a gap in the front but it works fine. I bought it when I was 12 and it was used really hard for a few years and then spent some time in my moms attic. It looked really funny with no bluing left, a few minor pits and some rust with a new blued loading lever so I defarbed it and rusted it up a lil more to give it a more authentic look. It's still my best shooter. Been thinking about putting it through electrolisis and removing the rust, That will also give it a dull gray color that ought to look pretty decent.

[Riot Earp]

I like the grain in the grips.

It looks like it was dug up from a battlefield.

[Hawg]

Battlefield dig ups are a lot worse. Looks like an old house find. I actually found an original in an old barn. It cleaned up to be shootable but looked worse. Wish I'd kept it.

[mykeal]

Interesting. What about the cylinders?
Also, do you know if there is any formula for the size of a power charge used in a proofing? (over load or under load) I know it's like test driving a car, but do they do it around the neighborhood or on the Indy track?
Good question. I forgot about the cylinders. Yes, they're also proofed and carry separate proof stamps.

Proof loads are legislated in terms of pressure. The proof house calculates the propellant load that will produce a given pressure depending on projectile, caliber and several other factors. I don't recall the proof pressure requirements in Italy.

[pohill]

I've always wondered if proofing a BP gun can cause damage that might not show up for some time. The original Walkers, for example - some of the cylinders blew up in the field, and I wonder what kind of proofing Colt did to those before he sent them out. Either too much or too little BP used in their testing would cause a problem in its own way.

[sundance44s]

I doubt they ever sell the guns used for proofing ..these could have damage unseen ..I think the proofing is done to insure with normal loading the guns made from a batch of steel will hold up to recomended loads .
The problem with the Walkers ..I read so don`t quote me on this ...I read that in the heat of battle or at night pickett bullets were loaded backwards ..and this caused the cylinders to blow apart . Sounds reasonable to me .
I know Smith & Wesson fires every model 500 50 cal they produce ...but it isn`t for proofing the steel ...it`s to insure with normal factory loads ..they will hold together ...that is a monster of a loading .

[mykeal]

If the testing is not done on each production unit then it is not true proof testing. It's design testing, a completely different animal altogether. Design testing is done to much higher loads and it's relationship to the production units is established by inspection and manufacturing tolerances. I don't believe any true proof testing is conducted by US gun manufacturers. By law, all European guns (that is, each and every production article) must be proof tested and the units stamped to show the testing was conducted.

[Riot Earp]

According to the Spiller & Burr auction at http://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/spiller-burr-revolver-revolver-with-holster-a-1-c-9i2bnrxggp, the loading lever assembly and hammer were originally casehardened. This is the first I've read of this. I always thought the lever was blued, as on the replicas.

[Hawg]

I read that in the heat of battle or at night pickett bullets were loaded backwards ..and this caused the cylinders to blow apart

Loading the bullet backwrds wouldn't be a problem. The problem was the cylinders were made of iron not steel. Higher velocity loads than any other revolver ever made with poor quality iron was what caused the cylinders to fail.

[Indian Outlaw]

My gun arrived. How do I determine if the chambers are aligned with the barrel? I shined a light down the barrel but couldn't see much. Is there a better way?

[Hawg]

Get a wooden dowel that just fits the bore and slide it down the bore with the hammer down. If it stops before it bottoms out in the cylinder it's out of line. Not likely to be so on a newly manufactured gun tho.

[Riot Earp]

Is this what I think it is?

http://www.pietta.us/products/Muzzleloadinguns/Spiller/gallery/Spiller_1862_02.html

[pohill]

Not a bad looking Pietta version.

To check the alignment, I put the gun at full cock and shine a light down the barrel. You shouldn't see any "half moons" or slivers where the barrel and cylinders meet.

[Cimarron Lawman]

Holy $&@%! What the heck is that?

Stainless??? :confused:

[Riot Earp]

Nickel maybe.

I just e-mailed an inquiry to Pietta.

[Hawg]

Probably polished steel. Pietta is big on that.

[Riot Earp]

That's true. It might be steel "in the white." I hope Pietta responds to my e-mail. I also asked them if it's being sold in the U.S.

[Riot Earp]

Pietta's response:

Sir
this Spiller is nickel plated.

[madcratebuilder]

How in the heck can you call a all stainless, or nickle plated 1858 clone a spiller and burr?????

[mykeal]

The same way Thompson Center and Cabela's and Traditions call their half stock, octagonal barrel rifles 'Hawkens'. The same way we call petroleum jelly 'Vaseline'. The same way we call facial tissues 'Kleenex'. And the same way we call a paper fascimile a 'Xerox' copy.

[Cimarron Lawman]

When I thought it was stainless, I was excited. But I wouldn't want a nickel finish. Of course, neither is historically accurate.

[Smokin_Gun]

Actually Nickel would be Historically accurate and would adhere the brass frame rather well. Maybe more apt to be post War plated ... would doubt if the steel was treated with copper plating first ... seen an original S&W that was all down to the copper either to be plated with Nickel or it had worn off...that one looked purdy cool.

SG

[Cimarron Lawman]

You're correct, SG, that nickel was used back then. I just haven't seen any S&Bs that had the treatment. It looks pretty when new but can get really ugly when it starts to flake. If I bought one, it would be a wall hanger. :)

[Indian Outlaw]

Wow, this topic got pretty big. I'll post a pic someday.

Good shootin',
IO

[Riot Earp]

A good topic, IO.

I sent another e-mail to Pietta. I requested that they make a Whitney replica, and included a picture for emphasis. :)

I doubt they'll do it, but it can't hurt to ask.

[Smokin_Gun]

At fullcock shine a light at the forcing cone and cylinder to check for a sliver or cresent moon of the cylinder overlappin' the barrel...also a quickcheck is to fullcock hold the cone end to light and look down the barrel. If the flash hole of the cone is centered it's a pretty good sign.

SG

[Riot Earp]

When Johnny comes marching home again

Hurrah! Hurrah!

We'll give him a hearty welcome then

Hurrah! Hurrah!

The men will cheer and the boys will shout
The ladies they will all turn out

And we'll all feel gay

When Johnny comes marching home.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/RiotEarp/SpillerBurr.jpg

[Cimarron Lawman]

A fitting way to wrap up this topic.

[sundance44s]

Well I don`t know about the feeling Gay part of the Johnny comes marchin home song ......Been livin in the South all my life and haven`t felt Gay not one time ...:rolleyes:

[Hawg]

Gay has an entirely different meaning now than it did then.:D

[Smokin_Gun]

Sundance I can't picture you frolicin' nor wearin' flowers & lace...:rolleyes:

I only get a picture on that Buffalo Hunter Pic:eek:

HeeHeeHee!

SG

[Cimarron Lawman]

gay   
adjective, -er, -est, noun, adverb
1. having or showing a merry, lively mood: gay spirits; gay music. :)

[sundance44s]

They could have changed the words to .....we`ll all feel glad when Johnny comes marchin home ...:D

[Riot Earp]

Alas, Pietta seems to have ignored my request for a Whitney revolver. :(

It was nice to dream for a few days.


Update 01/02/2009:

Pietta finally responded with: Thank you for the suggestion

We can only hope, I guess.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/RiotEarp/te0424.jpg

:D

[Indian Outlaw]

This gun isn't mine, but I had to post it.

[sundance44s]

All this Spiller & Burr talk is makeing me want to get mine out again ....They are great little revolvers ...With my big paws they are like a just right pocket pistol size ..........I do wish Pietta would make a Whitney copy ....:D
I don`t care much for the PalmTree brand that makes them .

[Riot Earp]

Are they really as loud as a Walker? There's a guy on www.gunandgame.com who claims such.

[madcratebuilder]

This gun isn't mine, but I had to post it.

Nice repro, very nice wood. Almost makes me want to polish mine up.

Are they really as loud as a Walker? There's a guy on www.gunandgame.com who claims such.


????? could not find any mention of spiller or burr when using the search.

[Riot Earp]

It's a guy who used to be on cascity. He posted the comment over there last fall. He used the name "Alabama." He's on gunandgame now under a different name.

[Hawg]

????? could not find any mention of spiller or burr when using the search.

Spiller and Burr comes up with four hits. The only thing I could find about loud was when Boken said they were louder than a banshee.

[Riot Earp]

Yeah, that's the guy (the former "Alabama"). It was either he or someone I'm confusing him with who made the Walker comparison last year (on cascity, I think).

At any rate, rumor is they're loud because the cylinder is flush with the frame ???

[Hawg]

I know Boken has a lot of pistols including Walkers. He's also Otter at Muzzleloading Life.

[sundance44s]

Heck I don`t remember mine being that loud ...of course I only shot it once and used 24 grs of B/P in it and was shooting my 36 cal Navy the same day ....but Walker type loud ??? maybe I`m tone deaf ...Can ya hear me now ? :D

[Hawg]

Can ya hear me now

Huh? What'd you say?:D:p

[rommer25]

I have been shooting mine with 18 grains of black powder for over 35 years. I have not found them loud at all. My other 36 calibers are louder, because I load them with more powder.

The reason I load my Spiller & Burr with 18 grains is that is the size of the measure (spout) it came with. TM.

[Indian Outlaw]

Boken's the dude who did the fancy Spiller & Burr grips I posted above!

He has a gift for gripmaking.

Canary wood on a Uberti .36 :

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp272/IndianOutlaw1961/100_0239.jpg

[Hawg]

Boken's the dude who did the fancy Spiller & Burr grips I posted above!

He has a gift for gripmaking.

That he does.

[Aussie Pete]

Noticed this topic. Just acquired a second hand Spiller & Burr replica. Italian although not sure of the breed. Seems well made and I intend to use 20 grains of 3f under a .380 pure lead ball, with the applicable over ball lube of course.
Any pointers to consider before the gun barks?

[Andy Griffith]

Clean it good first.

Likely it is a Pietta, and new cylinders and parts are available for it.

Does is have an FAP in a diamond somewhere on it?
Is there a square with a couple of letters in it near the serial numbers or on the side of the frame or barrel? That will give us the year it was made (Italian date of manufacture).

Either place lube on top of the balls or use wads under the balls to keep the gun from chain firing and keep the fouling softer.

Usually, these guns shoot to point of aim (mine does) at 25 yards.

Just be certain to clean out the inside of the action- it doesn't take much rusting for the trigger/bolt (cylinder stop) spring to rust completely through!

Extra cylinders for this revolver are very expensive and preclude obtaining an extra one unless you really love it. Not exactly the most common replica, but a good one.

I got mine under the Traditions label, and it's a smooth shooter- bottom right corner:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/TheDarkKnightt/100_0064.jpg

[Aussie Pete]

Thanks Andy.
No it hasn't the diamond etc., however it has Italian proof marks on the cylinder. The action times well and all seems tight. Its a second hand one and I got it at the best price possible - free.
I plan to let it speak this weekend. I hope its a really good conversation, no reason to believe otherwise. I let you all know.

Again thanks. Bye the way, nice selection of pistols.

Cheers

[Aussie Pete]

I fired my Spiller and Burr over the weekend. I used 20FFFg under a .380 pure lead ball topped with a layer of bullet lube.
It was a delight to shoot. The gun was quite docile and pointed well. I'm very happy with it and will continue to enjoy this gun.:D

I did have some issues with the RWS No.10 percussion caps.:( They were quite loose on the nipples. I had to squeeze them first before installing them.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Is there a better fitting cap available or different nipples with a slightly larger diameter cone?