Ruger Mark III 22/45 (dis)Assembly

[Top_Notch]

I recently picked up a Ruger Mark III 22/45 5.5" Bull. I put about 500 rounds through it and finally decided to brave the disassembly process for a thorough cleaning. I've read numerous horror stories on this and other gun boards about having to have 3 hands and the moons aligned in order to put the gun back together. I disassembled my 22/45, cleaned, and had the gun back in one working piece within 30 minutes. It took me three or four tries to close the mainspring housing only because I forgot to remove the magazine (duh). :rolleyes:

Personally, I find my 1911 more difficult to strip than my 22/45, so anyone afraid of buying this gun because of internet disassembly woes, trust me that they are way overblown. And the gun has been flawless in operation as well.

[CraigJS]

Check here all you'll need to know!
Be safe, CraigJS

http://guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm

[chris in va]

I didn't have a problem with mine either. Had the same exact one too. Everyone hypes it up, it's pretty simple.

[hogdogs]

Top notch, I removed the mag safety linkage as I don't believe a mag should need be in a pistol to do a field strip. Now I dry fire it after clearing the chamber with no mag and I no longer forget to remove it to close the mainspring housing. I do suggest the guntalk site as Bullseye has some great threads with awesome pics! I also removed the metal piece inside that operates the loaded chamber indicator.
Brent

[Zhillsauditor]

>Top notch, I removed the mag safety linkage as I don't believe a mag should need be in a pistol to do a field strip.

Truer words were never spoken. This is what got me to get rid of the III 22/45 for a buckmark. Well, that and the trigger. I didn't think to remove the mag safety until after I got rid of it. Whenever anyone asks, I say buy a used Mk II (or do as above).

[hogdogs]

Also... after a few field strips, go for a total tear down... nothin to it! I can now do a full tear down (minus tearing the bolt apart) and reassemble in the 30 minutes or less it took me the first time I field stripped it.
Brent

[rocinante]

Well here is a testimonial for problem reassembling that same pistol. Afterwards couldn't get it to fire or get the housing back open. 7 guys including a smith couldn't either. Sent it back to Ruger and it works but I will not open it until it stops firing altogether. I can field strip my 1911, S&W 915, Bersa 380, Taurus PT145, AK, SKS, marlin 1894, ruger 10/22 etc, etc with never a problem but that one whooped me. So I either be dumb or unlucky or both. Love the little gun though.

[hogdogs]

Rocinate, Them rail mount holes have the threaded dummy screws... If they get too deep it is gonna hang the bolt. I accidentally goofed and ran them in but found the problem and took them out, loctited and put back less deep.
As for reassembly and no fire... It is all in the "angle of the dangle", if you will, on how you hold the gun when finishing the reassembly.
Brent

[gopack]

Two MKIII's with mag safeties and 2 MKII's. All four have been detailed stripped and triggers and sears replaced with VQ parts. Having to insert and remove a magazine to drop the hammer takes all of about 5 seconds. Like anything else, the first time through field strip procedure can be a little slow. Like anything else, it gets easier to do with a little practice. Bullseye's site has great step-by-step instructions with pictures.

I can't tell any difference between the performance between the MKIII's and MKII's although I like the grip on the MKII 22/45 better than the MKIII 22/45.

Rocinante: If you don't have problems created by the rail mounting screws, then a likely cause of your problem is that the hammer didn't fall (uncock) before you tried to field strip it. If that is the case, then you can release it by inserting the mag, pulling the trigger, holding the pistol with the muzzle down and hitting a padded surface with the muzzle of the pistol (sharp raps).

[hogdogs]

gopack, I just think it is a safety issue with mags involved in gun cleaning. First I set aside the mag then I clear the chamber visually... At no point in the process will *my* mag be reinserted until the firearm has been reassembled and checked for operation of the action and the mechanical safety. But that is just me.
I do not knock anyone's choice in leaving the mag safety or LCI intact. I did keep the parts in my gun cleaning box as I will not ever sell the pistol in current condition since it will also come with the factory manual and that would be a conflict of information and operation.
Brent

[heyduke]

I'll only say this...

My Mark III Hunter is the ONLY gun that I have hold upside as a requirement to put back together.

Seriously, by far the worse gun to have to reassemble as far as time and banging head against wall.

That said, the best .22 pistol I've ever shot by far.

[Zhillsauditor]

I like the grip on the MKII 22/45 better than the MKIII 22/45.
I forgot to mention this, but the grips are different, and this was another factor (although not that much of one) for me in getting rid of the mkIII.

[JohnKSa]

At no point in the process will *my* mag be reinserted until the firearm has been reassembled and checked for operation of the action and the mechanical safety.The mag must be inserted in the Mk III for several steps during both disassembly and reassembly.

[Zhillsauditor]

you can release {the hammer} by inserting the mag, pulling the trigger, holding the pistol with the muzzle down and hitting a padded surface with the muzzle of the pistol (sharp raps).
You forgot the part about putting your left leg out and shaking it all about. :D

[gopack]

I treat magazines and pistols the same way when I'm doing any sort of PM on the pistol: I never have a loaded magazine within reach of my work area and I verify both are cleared before I do anything with them.

I do not believe safety features such as the mag disconnect and LCI offer any real safety improvements. I'm much to old a dog to learn the trick of trusting these features. The firearm is loaded until I clear it and it doesn't matter if it is one that I cleared before leaving the range then cleared when I got home and cleaned it. When I remove it from storage, I will clear it again. Removing the mag disconnect on the MKIII is an easy fix, just get a Clark bushing or do the washer trick. The LCI can be removed or disabled fairly easily. Neither the mag disconnect nor the LCI on my MKIII's have been enough of a bother for me to apply the fixes.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=398

http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1091&highlight=disconnect
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=387

I have a 22A, P22 and Buck Mark with mag disconnects in addition to the MKIII's. Must be something in the Ruger metal because it seems only the Ruger owners are passionate about the mag disconnects. Nice thing about the Ruger erector sets is that almost every modification under the sun is out there and fairly easy to apply. Half the fun of owning one is the ease of tinkering with it.

[Smaug]

On Mk. IIs, the key step for reassembly is to hold the pistol so that the hammer strut (is that the word?) hangs down vertically when you're putting in the part that latches everything together.

I assume it is the same for Mk. IIIs.

One only has to follow directions.

[heyduke]

One only has to follow directions

Some written directions (AKA instructions) are written better than others (as far as actually understanding and not leaving small details out).

[gopack]

You forgot the part about putting your left leg out and shaking it all about.

Thanks for reminding me, but only after putting your right leg out and then putting your right leg in.:D I know that procedure works because I adjusted my MKIII 22/45 trigger (internal) and then reassembled the pistol without checking the adjustment.:eek:

My Mark III Hunter is the ONLY gun that I have hold upside as a requirement to put back together.
Never tried the upside down assembly method. I just point the muzzle up just before closing the mainspring assembly to get the hammer strut in the groove on both the MKII and MKIII.

The mag disconnect does bind the hammer enough that it will not fall forward on it's own so I use high-tech tools to accomplish this: car keys, screw drivers, slivers of wood, allen wrench, etc. Anything handy.

I think the Buck Mark and P22 are bigger pains to field strip and reassemble than the Rugers. With the BM you have to find the right allen wrench, then hope the sight base screws and/or washers don't decide to fall 6" toward the middle of the bench, do a 90 move 18" and dive into parts unknown under the bench.:D With the P22 I have to get the little guide rod for the main spring or find the right sized twist drill or pencil, or...

[gopack]

Some written directions (AKA instructions) are written better than others (as far as actually understanding and not leaving small details out).

Try these

http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

[rocinante]

gopack i am a very persistent pinhead and I did all that stuff per the ruger and your mentioned web board. I laughed the first time I read the supplied instructions including the warning not to clobber the rear sight with a hammer. As fate would have it I did! Thou shalt not let rage enterth thy mind when thy hand holdth a hammer working with cold metal objects!! I just got beat bad bad bad. I don't have the repair document handy but there were a couple internal parts replaced so maybe I had a lemon. Works great now and it is surprisingly accurate. No worries for me but all I am cleaning is the barrel and what I can see with the slide locked back until it refuses to go bang at all.

Not knocking it just giving notice that folks having problems with this gun is not an urban or internet legend. No biggie. Some folks have problems tying shoes hence the ascendancy of velcro.

[heyduke]

Try these

http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

Thanks, but I don't need them now.

I wrote the all the "small things" that I could forget in the original instructions so I do have them for my reference if needed.

I don't consider myself an idiot, and in my real job, I actually get asked via the phone alot of technical questions pertaining to "systems operations" in my line of work.

When I couldn't put that Mark III together the first time, I called Ruger direct and talked with their tech department. I explained to them that I'm an idiot and to please bear with some stupid questions, and they were more than helpful.

Turns out that apparently I had a misprint in my instructions to begin with.

That said, as mentioned previously, that Mark III is by far the most "in depth" (AKA PITA) gun that I have to reassemble.

[gopack]

If you think the MKII/MKIII is the hardest handgun to field strip and reassemble there is, then it is.

I bought my first Ruger a couple of years ago, brought it home and started field stripping it. The first time was a bit rough. The technical language was so blue the dog left the room. I repeated field stripping and reassembly three times until I understood how the gun worked and how it went back together.

I'm the original 10-thumbed, fumble fingered klutz. But with a little practice, even I solved the deep inner mysteries of the MKIII.

[heyduke]

If you think the MKII/MKIII is the hardest handgun to field strip and reassemble there is, then it is.

Well, I'd be curious as to what other handguns out there require more steps to take apart and put back together?

Hey, I can take the Ruger apart and put it back together again no problem now after practice. However, after cleaning some Sigs, Beretta's, H&K's, P35's, Glocks, Bersa's, NAA's and EVEN Kimbers, one CAN'T help but wonder if Ruger couldn't of come up with a better design for take down of the pistol.

As mentioned, LOVE my Mark III, and it is on of my favorite handguns to shoot. Just put 300 rounds through it yesterday with some guys as a matter of fact. Ammo for that gun is the least expensive:D

I guess if the Mark III were the only gun I've ever owned, I'd say it was an easy gun to take apart to put back together:D

Everything said, it's only my opinion, and we all know what they are like!

[funon1]

And I can even read. It seems that in my case, the parts were fit a bit too tightly. I spent hours on it, and finally gave up. Funny, but I have had many Rugers and never had this problem b4. I think perhaps, given the current rate of recalls, Ruger is slipping in the QC department. Very disappointing. They should not advertise "tooless," if you need tools. On the other hand, I generally love the revos and have had good luck with autos until this year. I still like the guns and think they are great values. I hope they listen to this feedback and tighten up their ship B4 us Ruger owners have to hang our heads.

Oh, and congrats to the happy new owners and their 22/45 success.

Cummon, Ruger get it back together so I can keep recommending your products!

Funon1

[gopack]

the parts were fit a bit too tightly

If you couldn't remove the bolt stop pin, I've seen one MKIII that the bolt stop pin had to be removed with a punch. I've read about another. The problem with the one I saw was that the bolt stop pin holes were slightly misaligned, apparently at the factory. Darned hard to reinsert the pin. The problem on the one I saw was solved by inserting the bolt stop pin from the top and tapping on the barrel/receiver while applying pressure to the pin until the holes were properly aligned. The owner has said he hasn't had any problems since I showed him that trick.

I don't know how the factory assembler let this pass if it were being done by hand.

[gopack]

Hey, I can take the Ruger apart and put it back together again no problem now after practice. However, after cleaning some Sigs, Beretta's, H&K's, P35's, Glocks, Bersa's, NAA's and EVEN Kimbers, one CAN'T help but wonder if Ruger couldn't of come up with a better design for take down of the pistol.

You've got me on variety of handguns. Most of those are pretty simple to field strip and reassemble. I'd rate the MKII/MKIII about the same degree of difficulty as a 1911.

Ruger would be well served by improving the field strip/reassembly instructions in the manual. I've always thought that the instructions are just fine for someone who has done it before. Everything important for the process is there, but it isn't the clearest for the first timer. And the process is different from any other handgun I've seen.

I looked for and couldn't find any statistics on .22 semiauto sales, but would guess that Ruger and Browning have the highest sales. Ruger makes an excellent, popular semiautomatic. I doubt they are going to make any changes that would affect that status.

[Zhillsauditor]

I'd rate the MKII/MKIII about the same degree of difficulty as a 1911.:eek:
I'm not a 1911 nut, but the first time I reassembled a 1911 it took me less than 5 minutes. It only too me less than 5 minutes to reassemble my MkIII 22/45 after ten or twenty reassemblies, even after I learned the trick to it, and the first time I had to take it, in pieces, to a friend who owned a MkII to help me do it--and it took him more than 5 minutes trying to figure out the screwy "insert empty magazine now" step. (BTW, this friend is the one that talked me into a ruger because he loves his MkII; after putting the MkIII back together, he immedialtly had the complaints listed above: the grip is "wrong" and the magazine safety sucks).

The MkIII is also the only gun that I have ever cut myself on while reassembling.

[funon1]

I was really beating on the thing-like half swings and it would not budge. I did not dare go any harder for fear of peening/breakage. It was good and stuck.
Ruger makes an excellent, popular semiautomatic. I doubt they are going to make any changes that would affect that status.

Here is the problem for Ruger: So does Browning, and they are better in every way. That is the direction I finally went and that is 3 guns that Browning sold and Ruger did not, because of these irritating little blunders. Nothing is perfect, I know. The Rugers are pretty good guns, but the Buckmark are great guns that are not tooless, but are a breeze to disassemble/reassemble.

Funon

[Zhillsauditor]

Here is the problem for Ruger: So does Browning, and they are better in every way.
I wouldn't go that far--there are a number of things I do not like about my browning, mostly the plastic internal pieces. However, disassembly is much easier even with the screws, and the trigger out of the box is much nicer IMO.

Or, you could buy a S&W 41. Easy to disassemble and reassemble (less than two minutes) and a sweet trigger out of the box. And $400 more expensive :)

[funon1]

Like the TS barrels, rails, sights, grips, trigger work and a holo sight (okay, that might be $500) which would make the BM an even nicer shooter.

Funon1

[gopack]

I'm not a 1911 nut, but the first time I reassembled a 1911 it took me less than 5 minutes. It only too me less than 5 minutes to reassemble my MkIII 22/45 after ten or twenty reassemblies, even after I learned the trick to it, and the first time I had to take it, in pieces, to a friend who owned a MkII to help me do it--and it took him more than 5

My first attempt at a 1911 took most of a balmy August afternoon at Ft. Bragg. It was interrupted by several breaks for pushups, low crawls and running around singing funny songs.:D

My first attempt with a Ruger (MKIII Hunter) was considerably longer than 5 minutes. Now it is about 8-10 seconds for field strip and ~25 seconds for assembly for the MKIII 22/45 when I go for speed. The Hunter takes me about 30-60 seconds longer because of the tight fit of the receiver mounting lug.

Or, you could buy a S&W 41. Easy to disassemble and reassemble (less than two minutes) and a sweet trigger out of the box. And $400 more expensive

From my limited experience better feel, trigger and easy field strip. Better all around than anything discussed. I just can't get over the hump, yet, of dropping a grand on a .22 pistol. Of course, one doesn't count more than that on my collection of .22 semi-autos.;)

[HisSoldier]

The instruction format tells a secret story. Disassembly info is packed into about two sentences, reassembly is the whole page following, with pictures and everything.

Get it?

They don't want you to take it apart, but,,,,,if you do get it apart they want you to be able to get it back together again.

I've decided to make a tapered drift with T-handle to align the holes for reassembly for mine.

[heyduke]

even after I learned the trick to it, and the first time I had to take it, in pieces, to a friend who owned a MkII to help me do it-

Small world, had a buddy bring his over the same way:D