Accurizing a sporterized (ugh) M1903A4

[WeedWacker]

I have a sporterized Springfield that WAS issued in WWII. Don't really care what kind of collector value it has cause there was no matching serial number stock for it. Now at 200 yards (not meters) I have groups of about 5 to 6 inches. The stock is apparently a cheap drop in stock, plastic buttplate but is made of wood and can be bedded and floated and what not. I have a Burris Ballistiplex 3x-9x40 (I think 40) scope on it. Scope plex at 200 yrds is grouping right around where it should, all I need is to tighten the group up. Sure 6 inches is MOD (minute of deer) but I would like to be confident at 300 or 400 yards with it since I have plexes that mark out to 400 yards when sighted to 100. Any ideas on how to fix her up to spec? Is aluminum pillar bedding faster than glass bedding or is it worth it to perform the glass bed if done correctly?

I have a friend who will help me with this endeavor so any pointers from you pros would be utterly awesome.

[sc928porsche]

I would probably make sure the barrel is free floated, then bed the action, and recrown the muzzle after checking the headspace first just to be sure.

[taylorce1]

Have a smith run a bore scope down the barrel just to get an idea of it's condition before you sink a whole lot of money in the rifle. I agree with glass bedding the action and free float the barrel as well as long as the barrel checks out. What is the trigger like? I've had groups tighten up just by having a trigger job done or replacing an old military trigger with a Timney.

[WeedWacker]

Trigger: After shooting my SKS alot as well as my mosin... it actually feels pretty good. A little long but crisp and tight at the end. Kinda a "you better know what you are letting out of the bag" tightness. The stock is, I'm sure, lighter than the full wood stick with barrel shroud so if you don't have a good cheek weld it will knock your teeth out rather than rattle them loose. Feels good though, mroe of a roll than a slap/buck like my 12 ga and winchester sabots. (385 grains at 1900 fps or 400 grains at 1700 fps). I might consider a trigger job but this isn't intended as a competition long range rifle by all means. If I wanted it for competition it would be that CMP (I think it's called) shoot and i would get a new stock made for it.

Barrel: I have looked at the crown and there appears to be some wear on it. No major grooves or dings but could probably be recrowned. I think I will definitely have it recrowned as part of the refinishing project when I finally lay it to rest with Lymen Alaskan scope and stock, maybe put sights back on but maybe leave it in the sniper config... I think about that later.

[Ledbetter]

Timney trigger.

[wayne in boca]

Timney trigger and Speedlock spring.I have a 1903A4 that was sporterized in the '50s by someone that knew his business.A thing of beauty,but still had the military trigger.The Timney completed the rifle,now shoots as beautifully as she looks.

[Art Eatman]

A very cheap first step is to free float the barrel, and then put in a shim at the forearm tip. Very light pressure to allow insertion of the shim. I use a 3/4" strip of kitchen wax paper, folding it back and forth until it's thick enough. About a five-pound pull for separation and installing. Trim the ends with a razor blade. Then test for group size.

[WeedWacker]

OK I know absolutely nothing about the process of FFing a barrel. So what is the purpose of the shim? Why go through the trouble of FFing the barrel only to place a shim that places contact and pressure at a point on the barrel? Does it improve barrel harmonics over a completely free floated barrel?

[j.chappell]

It is my opinion that the best accuracy is achieved when a rifle is full length bedded. If you like your rifle and it seems to me that you do, spend a few dollars and have a qualified smith full length and pillar bed your rifle.

If you do not want to spend the money float the barrel without a pressure point and try it out. You can always add a pressure point later.

Have you asked yourself why float a barrel and then add a pressure point, isn’t the whole point of floating the barrel to eliminate any contact, well floating the barrel eliminates bedding flaws, the pressure point then acts like a stable bedding. Pressure points are used to make up for poor bedding.

Forget the old dollar bill trick. You will need more clearance than that. If you are simply floating the barrel I think that 1/16" of clearance would be a minimum. AND DO NOT FORGET TO SEAL THAT BARREL CHANNEL.

These are my opinions, everyone has their own. If you disagree call me out with your opinions based on your experiences.

J.

[Art Eatman]

Nothing wrong with 1/16th, but the deal is to avoid pressure on the barrel from any warping of the wood due to moisture changes. Densely-grained walnut doesn't walk around very much, but there's not a lot of that around, these days. Waxing or otherwise sealing the barrel channel is a Good Thing.

The purpose of the shim is to act as a damper on the vibrations of the barrel. When fired, a gun barrel behaves as a spring. So, think of the shim as the equivalent of a shock absorber on a car. Again, the deal is for a very light pressure.

All I know is, it works. I figure 1/2 to 3/4 MOA is better than 1.5 to 2.

[Al Thompson]

Well, let's eliminate some variables first - do you have a scope (or did that scope) give good groups on another rifle? If not, the scope may be an issue. Secondly, what sort of ammo are you using? If you don't reload, trying different brands and weights may make a big difference. Not every load shoots small groups in every rifle. Some rifles are picky. :) If your OK so far, getting a good trigger is probably the best use of your money and I'll second the re-crowning (Brownell's sells a good tool to do so for about 75 bucks) and free floating the barrel.

[WeedWacker]

do you have a scope (or did that scope) give good groups on another rifle?

I have not tried this scope on another rifle but it was designed for calibers up to 7 RUM so I'm sure it's not losing zero. It shootes the same and centers on the groupings at 100 and 200 yards using the corresponding plexes. Burris scope I thought it was called ballistaplex but a search isn't getting any results. It is similar to the on in this picture and might be the same or a later model

http://www.snipercentral.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16662&sid=b0249c6eaf358b0cd9a2b9d4d725db45

what sort of ammo are you using?

Factory Federal Power-Shok 180 grain, Federal Fusion 150 grain, and some PMC crap that I will buy only after checking my bedding job and to compare with my other stuff. Now I did get a batch of the Power-Shoks that was grouping at 2-3 inches at 100 yards and I was really happy about that after getting groups of 5-6 at 100 with the cheaper PMC. Never again have I had that from this rife. That whole box was awesome. Then it ran out... :( But I have all my brass still and intend to get a die and at least one more rifle in .308 caliber and start reloading. When I can afford the equipent anyway. And don't tell me to stop spending money on ammo, I need my fix every so often. :p

I'll second the re-crowning (Brownell's sells a good tool to do so for about 75 bucks)

No way am I going to risk me doing any sort of metal work on this rifle. Me + tools + expensive toys

[Al Thompson]

It's not the zero, it's flat out the ability of the scope to hold a group. :) If you bought it new, your probably OK, it's just been my experience over the last 30 years or so that the scope is the problem most of the time.

Might want to check the bullet weight on that good grouping ammo and see if you can match the bullet weight in the next box of ammo you try.

If groups are getting progressively worse (seems that way, can't tell from your posts), that's a good sign your scope is going. If I were you, I'd try to borrow a known good scope and see if your group sizes improve.