weighting that stock for bench rest shooting ???

[Magnum Wheel Man]

things are starting to come together on my old Rolling block bench rifle project...

got a question & a couple eye deers to bounce off you guys...

the barrel is going to be a very heavy contour round match barrel, as long as I can make the blank ( probably get between 26" & 27" of finished barrel length... since this will be a dedicated bench gun, is there any reason to have those sling swivel studs in the furniture ??? aside from a bipod, which I don't see ever using on this rifle ( I use sand socks :o ) I think I'm going to take them off, while I'm refinishing the stocks...

any reason I wouldn't want to add some weight to the butt stock ??? I could core the stock, & add some lead, but with that incredibly figured ( & delicate ) stock I've been thinking of shaping some 5/16" steel bar stock to the shape of the stocks butt, & making a steel butt plate (s) maybe 4-5 stacked as needed to adjust my long length of reach, & finishing them in contrasting colors, with a deep blued plate on the end... a touch of silicone between plates will keep things tight & rattle free, 4-5 plates will likely add about 1 lb to the butt end weight of the rifle, making it balance better... the contrasting colored plates will jazz up the butt of the rifle some... the extra 1 lb of rifle weight won't hurt the bench use of the rifle, & the 32-40 should not be a problem to shoot with a steel butt plate, & especially in a rifle as heavy as the finished weight ends up on this one...

your guys thoughts ???

the stock as it its right now...

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35251&d=1219438680
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35253&d=1219438852

[Art Eatman]

Since it's not a walking-around rifle, it shouldn't hurt anything to heavy it up some. Drill whatever hole you want, and use lead shot or chopped-up pieces of wheel weights or whatever. :)

[Horseman]

I'd drill cores in the butt under the recoil pad. THen make a mold and melt lead slugs into the shape of the cores. THis way they are easily removeable if you ever want to walk around hunting with it.

The rear sling stud won't hurt but the front will catch on the front bag under recoil. If it were mine I'd leave the hole and put in a filler screw so it' not permanent. I use flush set screws from the hardware store for this in my bench guns.