Help on Re-blueing metal on Rifle (DIY or send to Pro)?

[Jason607]

I have a Ruger Mini-14 rifle, 1987 production date. Great shape and all, but needless to say, some of the blueing has rubbed off, and much of it looks, well, 21 years old. I'd like to make it look new again.

Is this a job for anyone, or is it something that is just best sent to the pro's? I don't want to pay someone big bucks to do something I could do myself, but then again, I don't want a crappy finish just to save a few bucks.

If I can do it myself, what are some good products and can you tell me some hints. If a pro is better, who should I hire to have it done?

Thanks in advance.

[Horseman]

I'd have it blued if you care enough about the quality to have asked the question. I know a finish guy who will polish and blue for under $100 if you disassemble the gun and just send him the parts. He does a great job and does factory finished for some specialty guns and smaller pistol manufacturers. PM me if you want his name and number.

[DPris]

Without buying a tank & chemicals & polishing equipment, the only way you can really do it yourself is to cold blue it, and I doubt you'd like the results.
Spend the money & get it done right.
Denis

[SilentHitz]

I'd like to make it look new again. That being your objective, let someone who has the equipment do it. I've cold blued a few, but only to cover bare metal on guns I use for hunting and didn't care if they looked new....just for touch-up and such.

[jrfoxx]

I've had good luck with Oxpho-blu creme from Brownells. Did a whole flintlock rifle barrel in the white with it. Looks as good as the blu on any of my other guns. Just have to take your time,be constant and patient. It's really pretty easy.

[ogree]

send it back to ruger, they will do it for a reasonable cost.

[Dfariswheel]

As above, send it in to Ruger.
They'll do a great factory quality finish at a reasonable price, and most important, they'll do it RIGHT.
That means no over-polishing, wavy, rippled flats or dished-out holes.

[Jason607]

Thanks for the responses and answers. I kind of figured that would be the answer.

I'm glad I didn't try one of those kits at walmart. The results would have probally been simiar to someone who tries repaint thier car with spraypaint. :barf:

I will definatly do that soon, probally I will let Ruger do it.

[totalloser]

I wouldn't give up on a cold blue just yet. It's a cheap experiment. I have used that stuff to touch up all kinds of stuff, and also refinished an old MK1 that was rusted solid. If you don't like the finish you wind up with, it won't affect having it professionally done.

I lent my MK1 to a "buddy" on a hunting trip, and it fell out of the truck. It sat in the woods for a couple months before he realized it and went and got it. He paid me for it as we both thought it was a paperweight, but I cleaned it up and "cold blued it" about 5 years ago. Tried to take a pic, but for some reason the lighting wouldn't show the finish. I'll try to figure it out.

There we go. Keep in mind, this thing was a PIECE of rust before I refinished it. You can still see the pits in some places, and it lived in a holster for a few years, sometimes in the rain, since then.

It will be NOTHING like a rattle can paint job.

[CraigC]

Bluing is not something that can be done at home by an amateur. Send it to Ruger, they will return it good as new and do so rather inexpensively.

[homefires]

I've tried every home blueing system there is ! Unless it's on a spot out of the way it will show up like a sore thumb. Yep Send it in.;)

[DBotkin]

You know, it won't cost you more than a few dollars to try the cold blue yourself. If it turns out crappy, you can re-do it or send it out. I have a very nice Sako that had some surface rust after a flooded basement years ago. Some fine wet sandpaper followed by several treatments with Birchwood Casey's and it looks presentable. It's not quite as dark or quite as consistent as the factory blue, but if you're not looking for it you can't tell. Were I doing it again, I'd use something better - I've heard rave reviews about Oxypho Blue. Trick is to have the metal clean, clean, clean (I use denatured alcohol), be patient, let the solution do the work, and do several coats until it looks right. Then oil it.

I've also got a percussion T-C Hawken Dad and I built from a kit in '76. I think we used Birchwood Casey's on that, too. It's still blue, and easy to touch up. Remember, it's a Mini-14, not a Purdey.

[ClassicSWC]

Ship it out. I've tried at least a half dozen different cold blues and the results weren't worth the effort.