1917 Carl Gustafs Swedish Mauser 6.5X55

[Wisby]

I just received one of these rifle on a trade for a old scope I didn't use anymore. :)
It looks nice and I would like to get the barrel cut down and the bolt bent and have it drilled for a scope, what I'm trying to find now is the price for a sportsman style stock for it. So far I have had bum luck finding one. I think maybe the problem is I don't fully understand the gun. I know it's a Mauser action but I'm not sure if it is a large or small?

I would really like some input on my new project from those that might have one or have done work to them before I hope to have this ready by deer season this year.

[Wildalaska]

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Is it all matching? Condition? Unbubbaed?

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo


WildnooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooAlaska TM

PS you want a deer gun? Call me and Ill find something for you. Just dont bubba an unbubbaed Swedey

[Wisby]

Would you be interested in a trade I can take a ton of pics and sent them to you. I would just really like something in the 6.5x55 realm that was lighter and easier to carry then my .280 M77. I'll see if I can't post some pics of it tonight. It has a threaded barrel and I am almost posititve it is all matching.

[natlmatch]

Can I be next in line if Wild passes up on it? Please let me know.

Regards,

NM

[Eghad]

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooo x 2 :eek: :(

give it a good home :(

[Wildalaska]

Pics! Pics!

WildsavetheswedesavetheswedeAlaska TM

[FirstFreedom]

Exactly. Don't hack it up, *particularly* if it's matching parts. It's worth a lot more in its present condition. Either sell to finance a good sporter turnbolt - BrownRemChester - Or, keep it in unmodified condition, and shell out a measly $245 for a Mossberg 100 ATR turnbolt for a shooter. You'll be sorry later if you "sporterized" it, in all likelihood. Swedes should be left as is. OK, you get the picture. :) What do the markings on the brass plate say? What's the bore diameter mark and other markings? I want to be 3rd in line. :)

[Swampy1]

DEFINITION: Sporterizing... the act of taking a desirable ex-military firearm worth $500... spending $200 to $300 to chop the barrel, drill holes in the receiver, mount a scope, hack the wood to pieces....

and turning it into a $100 rifle.

DON'T DO IT !!!!

Just my 2 bits,
Swampy

Garands forever

[HorseSoldier]

+1 what everyone else said. If it's a good condition, milsurp Swede it's just about criminal to sporterize it. (Besides, there are mountains of them out there that have already been debased, degraded, and sporterized to death . . .).

If you're looking for a hunting rifle in 6.5x55, check out the CZ 550s. They do a version in 6.5 Swede and I think list new for $500 and change (that's the price on Bud's Gun Shop last time I looked, anyway -- no one in my area stocks CZ rifles).

[VirgilCaine]

Ditto on not messing with it. Have WildAlaska hook you up with a deer whacker. Leave that 'ol beauty alone...or send it to me...:D

[Wisby]

I'm working on posting pics. trying to figure out why they keep going black and white at the moment. I also realized when I was taking pics last night thats it's a 1915. All the numbers on it are 494. Also it's missing that brass wheel on the stock.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet028.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet032.jpg

The scratch on the barrel isn't in the metal but it scratched the blue off.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet031.jpg

[Wisby]

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet045.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet044.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet034.jpg

[Wisby]

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet052.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet049.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/hopey1313/RyansHelmet048.jpg

[Wildalaska]

OK boys...based on condition from the pics and the descrip, and assuming all numbers do match, ya got a retail-$275-299 nice rifle here.

Now OP, you want to cash out to get somehting else, you want to trade something? What are you looking for?

Lets help rescue this one guys.

Or....why not shoot a deer with it as is.....just change out the front sight ;)

Wild140noslerniceAlaska TM

[Wisby]

I'd really like to trade up for something in the same caliber or possibly a 7mm-08 that is light and easy to carry. I don't have much money I could add but might be able to come up with a bit. I'm just kinda stuck on that 6.5x55 because I think it would be perfect for the size deer i'm going after.

Or....why not shoot a deer with it as is.....just change out the front sight
Obviously the best suggestion so far but it's just not really me.

[Wildalaska]

And I just sold a bubbaed one too...OK guys, lets help him out!

Wildhowaboutasporteized303Alaska TM

[Wisby]

I really want to stick to that 6.5x55 or 7mm-08

[Wildalaska]

Hmmmmm.....

WilddigdigdigAlaska TM

[Kreyzhorse]

DEFINITION: Sporterizing... the act of taking a desirable ex-military firearm worth $500... spending $200 to $300 to chop the barrel, drill holes in the receiver, mount a scope, hack the wood to pieces....

and turning it into a $100 rifle.

DON'T DO IT !!!!

These are accurate rifles. DO NOT SPORTERIZE IT. Sell it if you must, but do not destroy it. Ohhhhhhhhh the humanityyyyyyyy.

[44 AMP]

With matching numbers on the reciever, bolt handle, bolt release, bolt shroud, cocking piece, and floorplate.

Had it at the range about 2 months ago. R-P cases, Speer 140gr, CCI 200, and a moderate charge of IMR 4320. Was hitting the 400 yard plate every time I got the wind right, with the sights set as low as they go.

Please, don't "bubba" your Swede. And I would recommend against properly sporterizing it either, just because there really isn't any point to it any more. 30-40 years ago I would have told you go for it, I might even have done it for you, but today, no. I'd be willing to bet you could find someone (maybe even here on this board) who would be willing to trade a decent sporter for it. Or buy it outright for a fair price.

I have Mausers, and Arisakas, and Springfields made into fine sporters (NOT Bubba'd), and I have had a number of "bubba'd" guns as well. Your Swede deserves the respect due it's age. From your pictures, it is in pretty fair shape, and you can't get them for $12 a piece any more, so I wouldn't do anything more than clean and oil it, and, of course, shoot it once in a while.

Please, Wild, or somebody, what do the numbers on the brass stock disc mean?

[FirstFreedom]

Ooooh, I have a extra brass plate to put on that one - PM me and I'll mail it to you.

[Regarding the number - or lack thereof, under the triangle point:]
There are actually five grades, or classes, pitting/corrosion in the barrel
0 Absolutely no corrosion, abrasion or scratches
- As good as new. (No pointer is stamped)
1 One or just a few dark areas in the corners
between grooves and lands.
2 Rust in the corners between grooves and lands,
some spots of rust in the grooves.
3 Spots of rust throughout the whole length of the bore
but no sharp edges.
And once the bore gets to...
4 Sharp edges between corroded and not corroded areas

Jim's note: The barrel is then discarded and replaced, (and of course the disk is replaced.)
The Swedes are so methodical. Nothing like good maintenance!

The smallest sector tells if there is any corrosion in the barrel.
A small triangle above '1' means visible signs of corrosion,
above '2' more corrosion,
above '3' still more corrosion, but still acceptable
Note that '3' does not mean poor condition, since the Swedish Army never
used weapons in poor condition.

If there were more rust, or if the diameter of the bore
- at the muzzle end -
was bigger than 0,06 mm over the calibre stated on the brass disk,
or if the diameter of the bore was bigger than 6,56 mm,
the disk was removed and red sealing-wax was poured in the hole.
The rifle was then sold, or sent to an arsenal to be rebarreled
(during WW2 often into an m/96-38).

If the diameter of the bore was more then 0,03 mm,
but less than 0,06 mm, over the calibre stated on the brass disk,
the rifle was used only for training.

Info on the later 'two screw type' brass disk. (Used on the m/94 carbine,
the m/96 and m/38 rifles as well as on LMGs and SMGs. This type showed
which unit the rifle belonged to.

Army

Often in the form of:

5
----- No.7
I.2

Which means; Rifle number 7, at the 5th Company, at the 2nd Infantry Regiment.

The letter in front of the regiment number (beneath the horizontal
line);
I Infanteri (I1 - I29) Infantry
K Kavalleri (K1 - K9) Cavalry
A Artilleri (A1 - A9) Artillery
T Trängen (T1 - T4) Maintenance and Supply Troops
(Train Troops)
IK Ingenjörskåren Engineer Corps
(an earlier code for Engineers was IB)

Sometimes there is a letter behind the regiment.
This is the notation for a detachment, the letter is the first letter in the name of the place for the detachment.


Other army units;
KKS Kungliga Krigsskolan The Royal Military College
KS Krigsskolan The Royal Military Collage
SS Infanteriskjutskolan The Infantry Musketry School
SSÖ Infanteriskjutskolans The Exercise Company of övningskompani the Infantry Musketry School
AUS Arméns underofficersskola The Army Warrant Officers School
BF Fästningspolisen i Boden The Fortress Police in Boden
K-g Volontärskolan i Karlsborg The Volunteer School in Karlsborg
N-g Volontärskolan i Norrköping The Volunteer School in Norrköping


There could be a letter instead of a figure above the horizontal line
(and sometimes no regiment):

B
----- No.124
I.16

S Skarpskjutningsvapen Weapons used for practice with
live ammunition (aluminium disk)
L Lösskjutningsvapen Weapons used for blank firing
K Kammarvapen Weapons used for gallery shooting
B Befälsvapen Weapons used by Officers (for practice)
U Utlåningsgevär Weapons that could be borrowed by
civilian rifle organizations
D Kompanigevär Weapons that belongs to a certain company
vid infanteriet (only at Infantry regiments)


The disc could also look like:

L
----- No.72 No.5
I.19

Which means; Rifle number 5, at the 72nd Landstormen area,
attached to the 19th Infantry Regiment.
'Landstormen'
were defence-only units.


Or:
VO
----- No.20
III AF

Which means; Rifle number 20, at the bicycle-dispatch unit
(velocipedordonans), at the 3rd Army Division (armefördelning).
Only on carbine m/94.



Some later codes or abbreviations for regiments or other army-units, that may appear together with a number:
Tyg Fälttygkåren (Tyg1-Tyg3) Ordnance Corps
Int Intendenturkåren (Int1-Int4) Quartermaster Corps
Ing Ingenjörstrupperna (Ing1-Ing5) Engineer Troops

Even later also;
S Signaltrupperna (S1-S3) Signal Troops
Lv Luftvärnet (Lv1-Lv7) Anti-aircraft Artillery
P Pansartrupperna (P1-P7,P10,P18) Armoured Troops
Af Armeflyg (Af1,Af2) Army Air Corps


Some weapons stored in the Armys Supply Services Armouries
IFS Intendenturförådet i Stockholm The Stckholm Armoury
IFK Intendenturförådet i Karlsborg The Karlsborg Armoury
IFB Intendenturförådet i Boden The Boden Armoury


-----------------------------------------------------------

There was one exception from this kind of 'unit'-disk.
The m/41 snipers rifle had a disk with the text;
'G m/41 B'

Which reads 'Gevär m/41 B' ('Rifle model 41B').
-----------------------------------------------------------


Navy

The Swedish Navy often used;
Kgl fl Kungliga flottan the Royal Fleet

The Navy used to be organized in four districts;
MDO Ostkustens Marindistrikt Naval Command East
MDS Sydkustens Marindistrikt Naval Command South
MDN Norrlandskustens Marindistrikt Naval Command North
MDV Västkustens Marindistrikt Naval Command West


The Coast Artillery (that belonged to the Navy) sometimes used;
SK Stockholms Kustartilleriförsvar the Coastal Artillery at Stockholm

(posted at KA1 in Vaxholm)
BK Blekinges Kustartilleriförsvar the Coastal Artillery in Blekinge
(posted at KA2 in Karlkrona)
GK Gotlands Kustartilleriförsvar the Coastal Artillery on Gotland
(posted at KA3 at Fårösund)
GbK Göteborgs Kustartilleriförsvar the Coastal Artillery at Göteborg
(posted at KA4 in Göteborg)
HK Hemsö Kustartilleriförsvar the Coastal Artillery at Hemsö
(posted at KA4H in Härnösand)
(HK was later changed to NK
and KA4H was changed to KA5)
It seems like the Coast Artillery also used the KA1 - KA5 denotations.


The Navy also used numerous other markings, like:

ÖVG Örlogsvarvet Göteborg the Navy dockyard in Göteborg



Air Force

The Swedish Air Force used;

F Flygflottilj (F1 - F22) Air Force Station (Group)



The 'one screw type' brass disk
The larger sector tells the actual calibre of the bore.
A triangular mark is made above the 'hundredth of a millimetre digit',

e.g. a triangle above '4' in the outer group of digits means 6,54 mm,
and a triangle above '9' in the inner group means 6,49 mm.


The second largest sector tells the difference between the point
of impact and the point you are aiming at -
when using the 'new' pointed m/41 bullet.
'Torped' is a boat-tailed, pointed bullet.
'Överslag' is over.
'str' is an abbreviation for streck which is a unit for plane angels,
there are 6300 streck to a circle,
and 1 str makes approximately 0,1 m at 100 m.
So if it say '2' on the disk you will hit 0,4 m above the point you
are aiming at, at a shooting distance of 200 m,
that is - if you are using the Swedish Armys m/41 ammunition.

[120mm]

Man, I love those Swedes. A few years back, I passed up 3 for $39.95 each.:barf: Does this forum have a "kicking yourself in the ass" avatar?

Seriously, I DO love those Swedes. I married one, after all!:cool: