Mauser trigger sear smithing

[jcadwell]

I have a 24/47 mauser that I'd like to do some trigger work on.

Does anyone know what the sear and cocking piece engagement dimensions should be? Most specifically the engagement angles on each piece?

I'm a instrument machinist by trade and want to true up the trigger if possible. I have access to everything needed to do this safely accept the info.

Thanks.

[Tom2]

Before you start working on a Mauser action I would recommend you get or borrow a copy of The Mauser Bolt Actions/A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen, or some other book that deals with Mauser actions. The information about triggers is lengthy and would be too time consuming to post on here. Most people get an aftermarket adjustable trigger for Mausers when they want to change the trigger pull. And usually then you get adjustments for setting it up as you want it, versus a one time mod to the military trigger. You can also buy modified military triggers in which the humps are removed or changed on the back to eliminate the two stage pull. But the book I have does not recommend that. The book claims that the sear spring accounts for 70% of the trigger pull force. The sear and the cocking piece engage squarely on each other in a 98 model. So perhaps a fine stoning of the cocking piece and sear to remove any surface friction would reduce pull and make it crisper. And some good grease on the contact points. The book says that there is no known exact spec on how far the sear should extend above the hole. The writer really is seemingly against altering the military trigger however, and I would not mess with the sear spring or the trigger shape. Still think your best option is the aftermarket Mauser triggers, many options there. Only so much you can do with the original. I still think you should get the book. I get the impression you cannot really lighten up the mil. trigger alot safely. Chance of getting unintended firing or malfs.

[jcadwell]

Not really trying to lighten it. The sear and cocking piece I have are galled. I wanted to rebuild the sear, surface grind it, reharden it, and then stone it. I've looked at the replacement triggers, but I have the faculties to redo the parts I have. Thanks for the info on mating surfaces.

[Wildalaska]

You can buy a military trigger and sear for $5. As gunsmiths, we would NEVER do what you are going to do

WildtheeasywayAlaska

[Tom2]

Well I don't want to sound discouraging or anything, but I would think a sear and cocking piece for a 98k type rifle would be pretty cheap to find and install. Funny they would be galled. I would think the engagement surfaces would be fairly hard to hold up under wear. But as far as I can tell they appear to operate square with each other and at a right angle to the bore line. You might put some dye or something on the cocking piece to see how much the sear engages it. Don't want too small of an engagement or you might get accidents, I suppose. Otherwise good luck.

[Harry Bonar]

Dear Sir:
Yes, the Mauser trigger is simple - but that simplicity is a complicated matter. Mauser was pretty destroyed by WWII! If we could just find the specifications it would be a bonanza!
It is a two-stage trigger. I personally like them but you must be very careful in modifying ANYTHING that changes the dimension of the parts. Never grind off the center hump of the TRIGGER, and then shorten the sear engagement to make it a single stage trigger. This is done but I violently disagree with the practice due to the "slop" in the firing mechanism!
Take the trigger assy. out with bolt fully assembled, and carefully with a white sear dressing stone and stone the sear and trigger contact on the bolt, use layout die to see they mate perfectly. DO NOT LUBE a trigger! DO NOT shorten the trigger sear part to decrease the engagement. but, as long as it resets properly you may lighten the spring (do not cut coils off) find another spring the same dia but lighter action. This is about all you can do other than buying a Timney (which I recommend). Trigger work is dangerous - it is the "spark" that fires the mine.
After a bullet is launched only God and Dupont control it.(Gods laws that is).
Harry B.

[jcadwell]

It sounds like I'll be finding some new parts. Thanks for the insight, it is much appreciated.

Out of curiosity, why wouldn't a gunsmith rebuild a sear? Because gunsmiths have to make money and it isn't worth the time? Or for compelling safety reasons...

[Wildalaska]

Why? If you can find one for $5...why take the time.....

WildeasyAlaska

[James K]

The biggest concern in working on that trigger is making sure you still have proper sear reset. The test is to make sure the rifle is unloaded, cock the bolt, set the safety ON, and pull the trigger hard. Release the trigger and move the safety to OFF. If the firing pin drops, you have a dangerous rifle and MUST replace the bad part(s).

Jim