Looking for J-frame action work

[conipc]

Looking for an excellent smith to improve a J-frame....recommendations?

[Wildalaska]

What improvements do you want and what Model

WildcuriousAlaska

[ammo.crafter]

Can I assume a S&W in 38spcl? Exactly what work are you looking for?

[conipc]

Would like the DA smoothed and lightened, and the built-in lock removed. Had a K done by Weigand, but he doesn't do them any more.....

[orionengnr]

Wow...

Wildgenuinecuriosityandnosarcasm?...gottabeafirst!Alaska

Say it aint so...you goin' soft?

OrionFlameSuitOnAndZippedEngineer:rolleyes:

[Wildalaska]

Say it aint so...you goin' soft?

Normal question, normal answer...try it sometime

WildtoucheAlaska

[moose fat]

How about sending it back to S&W?

[CDH]

How about sending it back to S&W?

And if you do that, I'd sure like you to report back here and tell us if S&W would actually consent to removing the safety lock and installing a solid side plate to get rid of the hole (and how it costs).

Carter

[moose fat]

Yes I know the questions, there have been some duscusions on removeing S&W locks and voiding the (lifetime) waranty. They are experts at trigger jobs!

[LSP972]

A "solid" side plate???

That would be a trick; since the lock hole is on the frame side, not the plate side...;)

If you send it back to Springfield, they will return it to you in the same condition it left the factory the first time.

Other than preventing the revolver from firing if the lock malfunctions :rolleyes: , the lock really doesn't affect the trigger pull. It is a simple matter to remove the lock plate, therefore ensuring that it won't self-engage at the wrong moment.

But as to "trigger jobs" on J frames... it can be done, but it had better be done by someone who knows what he is about. While the parts look the same as the bigger guns, a J frame's action is stressed differently due to the coil, as opposed to leaf, mainspring.

IOW, you're probably better off living with the trigger pull you have. Getting rid of the retarded lock is easy; sending your revolver back to Springfield after some yahoo screws it up trying to do a "trigger job" on it is annoying and expensive.

Besides, these are belly guns. You won't (or shouldn't be, anyway) making any 25 yard head shots. Under stress, you're going to yank that trigger as hard as you can... trust me on that.

Of course, if you have a Kit Gun that you plink with; then, yes, a better trigger is worth pursuing. But in all my years of fooling with these things (including being a factory-certified S&W armorer since 1987), I've never heard of a mechanic who specializes in J-frame action work. The little suckers are simply difficult to clean up properly.

Yeah, people cut springs, install after-market springs, stone this, stone that... and sometimes the gun even keeps working.

Do you feel lucky? Roll the dice...;)

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[nero]

My grandfather has a minty(well, was minty) S&W flat-latch Chief's Special .38 (he bought it NIB in the 50's). A few years ago he got it into his head that he wanted to do a trigger job on it himself. Despite my pleas to just leave it as is, he went to fiddle-farting on it. After his ham-handed ministrations, nothing but light primer strikes, and lock-ups. I tried to get him to send it to S&W or a good gunsmith for some TLC, but no, he says he can "fix'er up"....Yeah, he fixed it up all right. It's in pieces in a cigar box. When I inherit it, I'll have it brought back to it's former glory.

I love my grandfather, but I wouldn't trust him to field-strip a sling-shot....



nero

[don't shoot it's me]

LSP makes some valid points...these are belly guns..if you can put all 5 rounds in the black at 7 yards rapid fire, you are good to go...just about anyone can with a bone stock 442/642 with a little practice.

[Red Grant]

The little suckers are simply difficult to clean properly.



What about http://www.briley.com?



I've actually called these guys and asked about their "roller-bearing trigger kit" with DA work. ($375?)


The site didn't say whether they work on J-frame, and I know, in general, smaller the firearm, the harder it is to work on.

They did confirm that they do work on J-frame.


The reason I'm interested in roller-bearing trigger kit is that the revolver with the best DA trigger pull in the world (according to S.W.A.T's Leroy Thompson) is French Manhurin MR-73 revolver, which does have roller-bearing trigger.

[mjrodney]

I've had my bride's SP-101 worked on by Grant Cunningham out of Oregon.

Top notch work.

www.grantcunningham.com

He only works on revolvers.

[LSP972]

Red, I've heard about this deal, but have no first-hand knowledge of it.

My first impression is... might be okay for a range gun, but I don't think I'd want a carry piece with this.

And, while the Manhurin revolvers are indeed nice, the few I've handled were no match for super slick PPC action on a K-frame S&W, done by the likes of Bill Davis, Ron Power, et. al.

Of course, those are for target use only; no free lunch.;)

[Golddog]

Jim Miossi, who's an acknowledged master at action jobs on CZ semi-autos, also does action jobs on J frames. Check him out.

[SnWnMe]

Dry fire. About 2000 times. Then do it again. It's good for the action and does wonders for your hands as well.

[Socrates]

I DID. NOW MY 360PD IS GOING TO THE GUNSMITH. IT LOCKED UP, AND WON'T FIRE AT ALL. THE CYLINDER WON'T EVEN SWING OUT. THIS FROM JUST DRY FIRING ON SNAP CAPS...:mad:

S

[WESHOOT2]

No professional gunsmith will remove that 'lock'.

For gunsmithing check here: www.americanpistol.com

[LSP972]

Socrates,

No doubt your extractor rod was loose when you got the gun, and all the dry-firing caused it to back out and bind the cylinder/yoke.

This is one area that constantly needs checking on ANY revolver; that extractor rod must be tight. Takes five seconds to check, every time you have the cylinder open (unless, of course, when firing/reloading).

If you haven't brought it to the gunsmith yet, you can probably fix it yourself with little effort. If this is indeed the problem, getting the cylinder open is no big deal; tightening the extractor rod once you have it open, so that the rod isn't bent, takes some care and attention to detail.

.

[SnWnMe]

And use some blue Loc Tite on it when you tighten it this time.