"Cylinder Reversing" in S&W 629

[ckurts]

Does anybody have an answer for this? When I try to shoot my 629 by resting the barrel on several sandbags and the butt on one sandbag, the recoil or something causes the cylinder to move in the opposite direction from what it should. Most of the time this means it's bringing a fired chamber under the hammer. I've been taking the old "doc, it hurts when I do this" approach and "not doing that". As I have a slight hand tremor, I'd like to use a rest occasionally, especially with this big beast.

Any ideas?

[James K]

I will gladly read any other theories, but here is mine.

When the gun recoils, the cylinder stop tries to stay where it is (courtesy of Mr. Newton), so it pivots and jumps out of the cut in the cylinder for the chamber that was just fired. The recoil also twists the gun and the cylinder turns just enough that the stop does not drop back in the slot. This means the cylinder is free to turn.

On a S&W, when the trigger is released, the hand is retracted. The cylinder can then turn backwards and the weight of the unfired rounds on that side (shooter's right) brings the cylinder back part way to the previous chamber. When the hammer is cocked, the hand rotates the cylinder so that the same chamber, the one just fired, comes under the hammer again. Click.

I am not sure why this happens mainly on the sandbags, but recoil does very funny things and I am sure it has something to do with the fact that the gun is not free to recoil as it would be if hand held.

One possible solution would be to try a stronger cylinder stop spring. (Did you, by any chance, replace any springs in the gun or have work done on it?) You might also try a different method of resting the gun. Resting the barrel or butt is not usually a good idea because the results obtained will be far off those obtained if/when you shoot the gun off hand.

Jim

HTH

Jim

[Ken Cook]

The S&W .44s were notorious for this and the problem was only "solved" a few years ago.
I'd bet you're probably using 240 grain factory loads or equivalent hand loads.
If so, going to a 180 grain bullet with factory load, or slightly reduced power will solve the problem.
The only other solution is a MUCH heavier spring for the cylinder stop.
Easy job that should take you all of 10 minutes if you know how to remove the trigger from the pistol.
The trick is FINDING a heavier weight spring. I don't know if Wolf makes one or not.
(Also, careful removal of metal from the underside of the stop might help a little. Reduced mass = reduced inertia)
Hope this helps!

------------------
Your mind is your primary weapon.
USE IT!

[BBBBill]

As Ken said, it's a recent fix. Finally addressed when folks shooting those heavy loads (250-300 gr.) complained enough. I recall they used high speed photography to see what was actually happening. The fix involved cutting longer cylinder stop notches in the cylinder to allow for recoil & inertia between the frame & the stop. The problem was not nearly as common with factory level 240 gr. & below.
Jim's analysis & solution is probably correct.

[ckurts]

Thanks, people. The problem only occurs when the revolver is shot from a rest. I've had it occur with 200 grain Fiocchi ammo as well as 240 grain Blazers, which are not a heavy load. It does not occur with .44 Specials or "mid-range" (~1000 fps) .44 Mags. I've never experienced it shooting offhand, even with heavy 300 grain handloads.

The gun is completely "stock" right now, and fairly accurate even with old Shakey Hands (me) firing it.