Brass Framed Revolvers

[tonygrz]

Being new to BP revolvers, I wanted to know why so many shooters shy away from brass framed revolvers. I know that they are not as strong but if you don't jam as much BP as the cylinders will hold, will they hold up? I saw where Sportsman's Guide has a brass framed 58 Rem in either .44 or .36 for $130 and Cabela's has a brass framed 51 Navy in .44 for $125 - which would be better? Yes, I know that a steel framed BP revolver is best, but with limited resources ( $$$$$$$).....................

I think that if I limit the powder to 20 grs in 36 cal or 25 in 44 cal the brass framed revolvers would hold up to just limited shooting.

Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Steve499]

If you're going with a brass frame, I'd choose the Remington because of the topstrap. The brass framed Colt replicas sometimes have problems where the arbor screws into the frame. Although an old brass framed .44 Colt replica of mine is still shooting after thousands of rounds with no sign of loosening up, It may not be representative of what you can expect based on the experiences of others with brass framed Colt replicas.

Steve

[Old Dragoon]

Also Sportsmans Warehouse sell Cheap Palmetto Arms. No one I know has been satisfied with that co.s workmanship. I believe Cabela's sells only Pietta and Uberti mfg. BP revolvers. A better place to buy IMHO

[SIGSHR]

IIRC, the Confederates made brass framed revolvers because of a shortage of iron and steel (they were melting down church bells). A brass frame is a
historical replica, a steel frame is a shooter IMHO.

[ribbonstone]

CSA also tended to 36's for various reasons (conserve powder and lead, but also thicker steel as the south's steel wasn't of the best quality). In 36, which stresses the frame less, the brass frames doen't do too badly. In a lot of looking through web sights, books, and museums have yet to uncover a CSA brass framed 44.

The Colt is the weaker system. EVERYTHING depends on the fit of that center pin to the frame..that joint is the only thing holding cylinder and barrel to the frame. Here, I'd much prefer steel to steel but even they, if poorly made, will loosen and stretch over time....still, steel to steel seems to lessen this stretch.

Brass farmed Remingtons seem to hold up pretty well...would be the choice in 44 brass frames.

[DAWGTRAXX]

I have a 1851 navy .44 brass frame(Pietta),have put a couple of hundred rounds through it,just as tight as the day I bought it,just don't load it too hot.
I use 20 grains of powder

[tinker2]

I have a Confederate type brass frame .36 cal revolver.
Like Steve499. I have shot thousands of rounds with no
sign of loosening up. Works great. I don’t use only light
loads and I don’t baby it.

I have seen brass and steel framed guns (all .44) that the
cylinder Pin has pulled lose or out. Never seen it on a .36
or a good quality newer gun.

What ever you get, have fun and be safe.



Tinker2

[Wayner]

Tried to post a picture but no luck.

[Wayner]

I used a thin rimmed steel bushing from a tractor parts store to make a steel backplate to help that ring on the recoil shield of this brass framer.Soldered it on after fitting it. Shortened the nipples of course but changed them out for a stock set later that just came short enough to keep the capped nipples from hitting the recoil shield and chain firing.:D

[ribbonstone]

Shot a brass Remington 44 for a lot of years (about 30). Wasn't shooting it every week or even every month, but it got a good amount ofuse every year. No real complaints about it...like all repros, steel or brass, it would break the occasional trigger/bolt spring.

A couple of years ago, noticed the cylinder has a bit more endshake (fore and aft movement). The frame wasn't stretched, but the cylinder rotation had worn the fame a bit at the point of contact....proabably had happen sooner because of the brass.

Went to the auto-parts store and bought a set of cheap feeler guages...the kind that fold out like a multi-blade jack knife. Finding the right sized one to take all the slack out of the system, stripped the frame, cleaned the area, polished it flat, made a little bushing from the feeler guage, and soldered it in place. Something like .005", which took all the shake out of the cylinder and kept the barrel cylinder gap at a reasonable .006".

(BTW: feeler guges make good shim stock for lots of other projects...if you see a set on a bargan tool table, pick them up.)

Wasn 't frame stretch...was just wear of the revolving steel cylinder on a brass frame...but the gun still functioned and shot well, it let the cylinder move a bit forwards and that let the cylinder face drag on the barrel breech...which really limited the amount of fouling it tolerated.

Put back to the fit it had when new, would expect it to be shooting for another 30 years.

[tonygrz]

Thanks for all the great advice. I settled on the brass 51 Navy from Cabela's. It was only $125 and they included a pistol rug. It had to be back ordered so when I finally get it, I'll let everyone know how good or bad a shot I am. I'll keep the powder load at 20 grs. Thanks again.