Wanted: 1911 input

[GodblessAmerica]

I bought my first 1911 Friday :), and have a couple of questions for the experts here. Thanks in advance as always, for the help.
I bought a Colt 1991A1 stainless commander, used but seems in very good condition. I wanted a gov't model, but I want to use this to teach my 10 yr old to shoot it with a .22lr conversion. She holds and aims a compact best but I didn't want that for .45 use, and she has some trouble balancing the government models, so we compromised on the commander size. It is a plain, stock appearing gun with the exception of night sights and hogue finger grips (came with stock sets of both also, 2 colt mags 2 mecgar mags and box, paperwork etc.).
I need ammo recommendations in .45 for me to get started with it, specifically bullet weight. I know greater bullet weight generally = greater recoil, but am confused why I have seen +P 180 gr. Will that have more or less recoil than 200 and 230 gr? I haven't fired a 1911 since I wore BDU green, and then only for weapons orientation so I really don't remember much about it. Is lead fouling a concern with any of these? Cheap bulk sources... this stuff costs more than any handgun load I have except .357!
As far as the gun goes, it has the center-relieved hammer but the stock, plastic looking trigger. The trigger pivots slightly up and down, but pulls straight back. Is this a potential problem? I think I want to replace it anyway because it looks cheap, any recommendations there? Also, where can I find a good (Novak etc.) set of 3 dot sights? I'll make sure the .22 slide has them when we get it, but I'd like them for the .45 slide as well. Can they be replaced easily by someone like me with mechanical aptitude and tools? What about springs? Should I go ahead and replace them now?
Lastly, what brand of .22lr conversion do you recommend?
This thing isn't as sharp looking as the customs and newer factory guns I have seen, but man I love it's mechanical simplicity. Can't argue with it's function and simple field strip. I suspect we'll have a long relationship with it, and will eventually customize it some if we don't trade up for a government model when she grows into it. Thanks again!!

[Hawkeye]

Glad to read that you're teaching your daughter to shoot. We need more parents like you!

I don't have much experience with the .22 conversions--I just like to shoot .45. My buddy has one for his Wilson, and it seems to work pretty reliably. The conversion units are often choosy about ammunition.

Ammo: If you want, Winchester makes a FMJ 185gr bullet load that is semi-wadcutter in shape. It cuts pretty holes in the target, and it does have slightly less perceived recoil. I've been known to use it for IPSC when I feel gamey (blush). There's not much less recoil than the standard 230gr, though. For jacketed, factory ammo, the best price is almost always on 230gr ball.

For cheap ammo, if you can find CCI Blazer or Lawman on a special deal, the price isn't bad. I like to find it locally, since UPS shipping rates for ammunition have gotten exorbitant. Do you reload? I've never found lead fouling to be an issue with jacketed ammo. I don't buy reloaded ammo at a gun show--you can too easily have explosive problems.

A trigger replacement usually isn't a big deal, but you may have to adjust the "curve" of the bow or even relieve some metal. If the trigger is working well, save your money for ammunition. Are you comfortable stripping the frame?

Brownell's, Midway USA, and Natchez Shooters Supply all carry sights. Brownell's has the best selection, but unless you get their trade discount, the other two places will have better prices on their periodic sales. I'll replace Glock sights without a thought. If your front sight is staked, I'd use a gunsmith. I suppose you could drift and replace the rear sight through the dovetail, but you may find differences in dovetail configuration. I use a gunsmith for sight changes on a 1911.

If you bought the gun used, I'd replace the recoil spring and firing pin spring. I like the Wolff springs, and routinely use their 18.5# variable springs on my 5" 1911's, and they always work great. I believe that 20# is a "stock" spring for the Commander. If you are shooting lighter loads, you could use a lighter spring. Springs are cheap, guns are expensive.

As your daughter grows and is comfortable with the 22 and good with the Four Rules, consider borrowing or purchasing a good 9mm. The light bullets make the transition to a centerfire round much easier than going straight to 45 ACP. I've found that the Browning Hi-Power seems to work for just about everybody, even folks with small hands. Some of the clones, like the FEG, are pretty inexpensive, even after a trigger job.

Now, don't get me wrong. I love the 1911 and consider it God's Chosen Pistol. However, after you strip and clean a Glock, you realize that the price for that exquisite 1911 trigger is a little more time at the cleaning bench.

[Dave Sample]

The stock recoil spring for a Colt Commander is 18 lbs. Make sure you get a Commander size 22 conversion kit if that is what you think you want to do. I would not do that myself. I would teach my Daughter to shoot a Ruger MK II and get her used to handling a pistol. My Daughter learned shooting Big guns in Big Calibers, but she had me for a Dad. I do not care for "Switch Top End Guns" at all. I have already purchased a .22 Ruger MK II for my grandson and in about 5 years he will be shooting it. He has to wait until I think he is ready. He also has a SA Colt Frontier that will help him get familiar with revolvers.
I am building a dedicated Colt .22 Conversion Kit on a LW Caspian lower end. I love the idea, but it will bore me to death after a box of 50 .22's. Then it will go to my grandson for later.

[KimberFreak]

The Kimber .22 conversion kit is the best on the market... but I have to admit I am a bit biased

[GodblessAmerica]

Thanks for the ideas so far
Hawkeye, how do you get at the firing pin spring? I have not looked at the schematic yet so I don't know how difficult it is. I already have a S&W 6906 9mm for her next step up but I did not think it would be the best caliber (compact size & 3.5" barrel :eek: ) for her to learn with at age 10. Besides, it may be trade fodder for whatever my next purchase is going to be. I've averaged one new to me pistol every 6 weeks since September...Somebody stop me!!
Dave, we looked at a lot of .22 pistols before I decided to get a conversion. I just couldn't see paying the price some of them command because they are target pistols. The cadet I looked at cost more than my nickel 5" S&W M27-2 did two months ago from the same shop. So for now, we'll see how this goes and move on if we need something different. Fortunately, she has good eye hand coordination like I used to and impressed even the police Lt. at the shop with her steady aim and trigger pull, so I think she'll do well.
Kimberfreak, funny you should recommend that brand! I see there's a stainless one for sale here now.
Anyway, thanks again for the help. Please give me some more ammo ideas too.
May God continue to bless America.
G

[Hawkeye]

GBA, you might direct technical questions at Dave. I believe he is a real gunsmith. I'm a parts swapper on my good days. Anyhow, once you've removed the slide, set it on your bench upside down. At the back of the slide, you'll see the end of the firing pin protruding through the firing pin stop (a roughly rectangular piece). Take something like a nail set and press in the firing pin, then lift the firing pin stop up out of its groove. The firing pin and its spring will jump out at you. You can also then remove the extractor from its tunnel. This is for a "standard" 1911. If you have a Series 80 style with the firing pin safety, it's more complicated. I can tell you how to do a Series II Kimber, but I'd have to go practice with a Series 80! The AGI video on the 1911 is pretty good.

I sure like the Ruger Mark II .22 pistols. I have a couple, and that's what I take out for new shooters.

As far as ammo, I wouldn't buy the +P stuff. You'll find the best deals on 230gr hardball ammo. The 185gr Winchester has a little less recoil, but probably not enough to justify the cost difference. (I bought a couple cases cheap from Widener's years ago). If you handload, you can tailor light loads and get recoil springs to match.

With good instruction and proper stance and grip, your kids will be able to shoot centerfire handguns surprisingly young and quite well. My oldest girl took a two-day defensive handgun course at age 14 using a HK USP in .40 S&W, and outshot most of the men in the class. My son started shooting a .45 ACP 1911 at age 10 and didn't mind it. He started training with a 9mm, but by age 13 had decided that the .45 knocked down Pepper Poppers much better. He grabbed my Colt and I haven't shot it since!

[Dave Sample]

Great Post, Hawkeye! Common sense is hard to find now a days!
I have a dealers licence and tend to think in wholesale terms. The Ruger .22 pistols are a bargain at about $180.00 on up which is less than a conversion kit. (I Paid $350.00 for mine) so I thought my advice was in line. I want everyone here to do what THEY want not what I would do. I have a daughter and I love this idea of helping your daughter become a pistol shooter.
I spent a few extra bucks ($250.00) to get my grandson a commerative Bill Ruger in a neat red box but I want it to be a shooter!
I am not a gunsmith. I am a pistolsmith specializing in 1873 type Single Action Pistols, and the beloved 1911 type pistols. I have retired from the 1911 work, but still have guns on the bench because my gunmen will not let me quit taking care of their tools. So be it. I still do SA tune ups and have one to do today. I don't comment much on any factory guns of any kind. There are plenty of folks here who are qualified to do that, but I have no need for them and do not keep up with the current trend of Kimber offering 60 different types of 1911 semi automatic pistols. Factory guns are just that. The less you spend, the more likely you are to have problems. Let me know if I can be of further help to you and your daughter.

[Ledbetter]

If you do the disassembly and reassembly in a largish (12" X 18") cardboard box open at the top with a towel on the bottom, you will save frustration over lost small parts.