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View Full Version : Bersa .380 Magazine Problems, Need Help!


Dead-Nuts-Zero
January 5, 2005, 01:22 AM
I have a new (3 mo. old) Bersa .380 with about 300 -400 rounds fired. Today at the range I noticed that the magazine was causing some strange problems that I had not noticed in the past.

When I insert a loaded mag. into the gun, the slide slams shut leaving it cocked, ready to fire. When I finish firing the last round, the slide is not remaining open everytime. I worked the slide several times with an unloaded mag. and the slide slams shut almost every time. It seems that before the slide would always stay open everytime I pulled the slide back with an empty mag. It will not fire without the mag inserted, this is normal and seem to be working properly. I found that if I apply extreme pressure on the bottom of the mag, it works better. I have tried changing the mag spring to different directions and the slide catch spring seems to be ok. I am shooting Magtech round nose with no other troubles.

To you Bersa lovers, is there something I am missing here, or is this normal? I really think it is a bit on the unsafe side having the slide slam shut on it's own, leaving the hammer in the cocked position. I have tried many differnt combinations, on safe, off safe, locked and unlocked etc. but still seems to be a problem in the end. I just don't remember having these problems before.

I keep it clean and wipe it dry after using only a drop of Breakfree where needed. I checked the manual and it does not say (that I can find) what the normal reaction is for the slide when loading or on empty.

I love this gun, and have not seen any bad post from anyone who has one, so maybe I am just overlooking something simple here....help! :confused:

datasmith
January 5, 2005, 08:20 AM
The fact that the slide slams shut when a loaded mag is inserted makes me think that its not a mag problem. I would think its more a slide catch problem. The only thing that keeps the slide back and the catch from dropping out of the way, is the friction caused by the back of the slide notch pressing against the small block on the inside of the catch lever. This pressure is created by the slide's recoil spring, and is the only thing that keeps the slide latch from pulling out of the way under it's own spring's power, of course this is when there's either a full magazine or no magazine in the gun. An empty magazine provides additional pressure to the bottom of the slide catch, forcing it up into the slide notch, and providing even additional pressure to keep it there.

It seems to me that you've lost the "square" fit between the slide catch block on the inside of the slide catch lever and the notch on the slide, which creates the friction to keep the slide catch up and the slide held back.

I would remove the slide and closely examine the small block on the inside of the slide catch to see if its been worn or chipped, and compare that with the back side of the slide notch, which is the part that rests against the slide catch block.

My guess is that the little block on the inside of the slide catch has been chipped down, or worn back, and there's very little flat area now on the slide catch that actually catches the slide notch when it recoils on the last round. And, the jarring of inserting a loaded mag would provide enough inertia, in this situation, to allow the slide catch spring pressure to overcome the little-to-no pressure provided by the surface areas between the slide catch and notch, pulling the catch from the notch.

I pulled out my Bersa and removed the slide. I could see the block on the inside of the slide catch. Although I saw some friction marks created by the slide notch, I noted a distinct squared block that would fit completely into the slide notch when pushed up either manually or by the empty mag.

Let me know what you find.

SmokinTom
January 5, 2005, 08:20 AM
You also have to clean and oil the magazine too.I use WD-40 on mine and they work fine.Breakfree on the slide is fine,but clean it before you oil it.The magazine follower has to be clean as does the inside of it.

Nortonics
January 5, 2005, 09:08 AM
Good ideas above...

Be sure and check this new web site and forum dedicated to the Bersa Thunder 380:

Chapterhouse - The Bersa Thunder 380 (http://www.geocities.com/bersa_thunder/index.html)

I bet between their excellent articles and their little forum you could probably come up with some answers - helped me with a difficult decocking lever on mine...

Dead-Nuts-Zero
January 9, 2005, 04:33 PM
Thanks for the help. At this point, I am thinking that I may have more than one problem relating to my problem in my post.

After taking a close look with a light, I noticed a few things.

1). The mag. is slightly rusted on the inside. Looks like someone tried to remove it (the rust) with a rag, as it's more of a color stain and not the serious flaking pitting rusted type. The outside of the mag has many blotches of what may be gun blue touchups. I have used a black permanent marker myself before to touch up some of my old junk guns. This looks alot like the blotching I had done before, only they maybe used a blueing stick pen, not an ink marker. I am thinking that the mag had been in a box in a warehouse somewhere collecting moisture. Then someone freshened it up and sent it out with my new gun. The spring looks like new in good condition. The chrome follower/pusher thingie has some slight orange rust spots in the tiny notch corners. The notching of this piece dosen't look right either. I think it is getting some wear from not being in the proper position while being fired.

2). The slide latch has a "v" like notch worn into it. I would think that it would be a hardened metal and would chip off a piece as someone said in a post above. As best as I can tell, this wear mark is from the fact that the latch has a fair amount of sloop. It is loose and can be moved quite alot. The latch spring seems good. The slide also looks ok. When I insert an empty mag. the latch is still a little loose. If I apply pressure onto it, forcing it into the very inside position while I put in the mag. it sometimes stays there and will hold the slide open as it should. After moving the slide from it's latched open position just once, it gets back to it's loosness sloopy state. Being able to move around at will, creates the wear in the notch as best as I can tell.

3). On the opposite side of the gun is the forks (split bar) that slide when the trigger is pulled. with the grips removed, this will pull away from the gun at the forward pin area. It is difficult to get it back into position to replace the right side grip plate. This also seems to cause the mag. to be inserted in a "two step" process. The mag, when slid into place, will "click" and hold it's self in place but it is not locked in. Then pushing harder on the mag, gets a 2nd "click" that puts it into the full and final locked in position. Now, when messing with the sliding forked bar thing that I mentioned above, depending on the position of this bar, the mag will slid in properly with just one "click" and become locked in place. I have a feeling there is some slop in the inner trigger linkage that is not viewable to me. I don't plan on removing any of these parts and causing other problems. The little springs will be launched into another room and never be found again. If I had another gun to hold side by side, maybe I would find that this slop is normal.

4). The rear sight is not centered in it's dovetail grove. Yes, I know this is unrelated to above troubles. However, I have adjusted the sight blade 2 clicks now, and the white dot is close to being behind the sight post. The reason I mention this is because this gives me one more reason to return this gun for a tuneup.

Your help (all of you who posted) was appreciated. Due to the many different problems, I have decided to contact Bersa next week and confirm the return procedure for warranty work. Again, as I said before, no one has said anything bad about a Bersa .380. This makes me think I may have a lemmon or maybe a gun that fell through the inspection cracks after the shift party, or whatever. A hangover can cause many problems as I recall.

I would like to keep in touch until I get this resolved. Thanks again!

Keep shooting!!!

ScoutinStAugustine
January 11, 2005, 08:51 AM
My solution to several Bersa .380 problems was simple...Makarov .380.

Dead-Nuts-Zero
January 13, 2005, 01:07 PM
ScoutinStAugustine ......Your post is quite unusual. May I ask what kind of problems you have had with the Bersa .380?

I am a person who tends to notice the little things and I tend to look for perfection too often. I am very criticle on some things. However, my Bersa troubles did not fall in line with any complaints I have read in here. I believe that any company can have a "bad one" and I am hoping that is what I have because no one else seems to complain too much. Maybe some of your troubles are like mine, I would be interested in what you have to say about the Bersa and if some of your problems were the same as mine.

Thanks to all......Keep Shooting!!!

michael t
January 13, 2005, 03:35 PM
Contact Bersa and make arrangements to return for service. It has a warrenty and they will take care of it.

Dead-Nuts-Zero
January 14, 2005, 06:19 PM
I have contacted Bersa and they were very happy to ask me to return it for repair or replacement as needed.

Just a matter of time before it's on it's way.

I liked the post here and the help trouble shoting these problems. It is educational and enjoyable as I have the interest. However, I don't have the experience to give it any repairs on my own. Bersa is willing and that's good enough for me at this point.

I was able to learn a little more about the gun from all of your help and suggestions. Thanks again. :cool:

Keep Shooting!!!!!!!

ScoutinStAugustine
January 15, 2005, 08:41 AM
I shot a Bersa in .380 about 3 years ago and about 1 out of 8 rounds wouldn't feed. I shot a different Bersa in .380 about a year ago, and on every shot the magazine would rattle around in the mag well. It felt like it had screws that weren't tight or something. I own two Maks in .380, a blued version and a "Satin Nickel" version. Thousands of rounds thru both, zero problems. Not the most scientific research, but it works for me.